Kill switch. Which wire, 69 - Chevelle Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems.

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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 4th, 17, 7:22 PM Thread Starter
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Kill switch. Which wire, 69

69 stock harness.
I spent a few hours going through posts trying to answer a simple question.

Which wire is the best choice?

PS. I don't want to discuss the theory of having a switch etc. I read THEM ALL.

Thanks
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 4th, 17, 8:31 PM
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Re: Kill switch. Which wire, 69

I would install it on the wire from the ignition switch 'on' position to coil +. Not sure what color that would be on a 69.

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 4th, 17, 9:46 PM
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Re: Kill switch. Which wire, 69

You can open the circuit or wire to the coil or open the circuit from the coil negative to the points.
If you open the side to the points from the coils negative terminal, if someone were to run a jumper wire to the positive side of the coil from the battery, the ignition will not work as it cannot see the ground through the points and then someone would have to wire the points back to the coils negative terminal.

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 4th, 17, 9:59 PM
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Re: Kill switch. Which wire, 69

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Streib View Post
You can open the circuit or wire to the coil or open the circuit from the coil negative to the points.
If you open the side to the points from the coils negative terminal, if someone were to run a jumper wire to the positive side of the coil from the battery, the ignition will not work as it cannot see the ground through the points and then someone would have to wire the points back to the coils negative terminal.

Jim
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 5th, 17, 7:21 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Kill switch. Which wire, 69

thanks all.

i like the idea of interrupting the negative side of the coil. positive side has the original RESISTANCE wire and i was leary of touching it.

ROB

69 El Camino


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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 5th, 17, 7:59 PM
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Re: Kill switch. Which wire, 69

Quote:
Originally Posted by robpp View Post
thanks all.

i like the idea of interrupting the negative side of the coil. positive side has the original RESISTANCE wire and i was leary of touching it.
What I found out about a resistance wire on a buddies 66 is if you are doing some wiring changes on the car and you have the resistance wire loose with a bare end to do some testing and hook up a test lead too it making SURE it's not hitting anything. Make sure too that NO OTHER PERSON bumps the connection to where it then lays against an aluminum valve cover while your back is turned while going to the back of the car to connect the battery and then turning on the ignition. With a short, the wire likes to get VERY hot and will let some smoke out of it. Luckily I saw the smoke and turned the key off and then a buddy saw the smoke and said, sorry I bumped against the wire.

You just have to have respect for things and a resistance wire is just a specialty type of wire and whether it get's shorted to ground or any other type of wire, it can cause issues. On this one after the wire cooled, it looked fine and used it without replacing it although I did slide over some new covering over it in case there was an open in the wires insulation.

If you do opt to do the negative wire, try and use a factory end on the coil connection and then get the wire going to the switch and back out of the switch to the points to be the same color wire and maybe loom it to have it blend in with the other wires and not stick out slowing down someone else seeing what you did.

Jim

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 5th, 17, 8:41 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Kill switch. Which wire, 69

Thanks Jim. I KNEW to stay clear of that resistance wire.

Neg side is black so that should help hide anything I do. And I think I have a spare negative side with terminals from when I had my distributor recurved.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 5th, 17, 9:25 PM
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Re: Kill switch. Which wire, 69

Quote:
Originally Posted by robpp View Post
Thanks Jim. I KNEW to stay clear of that resistance wire.

Neg side is black so that should help hide anything I do. And I think I have a spare negative side with terminals from when I had my distributor recurved.
Back when I was doing a lot of automotive security systems, I tried to think like a thief and buried things and camo'd them to where it was hard to tell something was not factory. I know last week I was working on my 6 cylinder and the points wire on it was black and would be very easy to match up with another wire from a supplier.

Funny thing you said you might have a spare terminal. I modified an original harness on my 74 Spirit of America Nova adding wires and terminals under the hood for an original tach to where when I did it probably 20 years ago, the terminals were not easily found except off of donor vehicles and back then there were no companies that sold factory style harnesses.

Depending on how far you want to take this, one could get some extra terminals for the bulkhead and use some of the unused spots for running the wires into the interior and that way if you do need to pull the motor you don't have a set of wires running through some other hole or location and it's with other original things and would be real easy to loom them all together.

Jim

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old Jun 6th, 17, 9:01 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Kill switch. Which wire, 69

I haven't fully planned my approach yet

I remember having to take the coil side terminals from my original coil and move them over to new coil so original wires bolted right up same as factory. Removed sticker from coil so it blended back in.

Thanks again for the help.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 17, 6:55 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Kill switch. Which wire, 69

@Jim Streib et al


I used the negative coil wire.

Jim for the terminal on the coil, which is a locking Fork, flag type, I was able to purchase a repop negative coil wire. I soldered one end onto new wire, that went in coil neg then wire goes into cab. Then returns back into engine bay where I soldered it to the existing wire coming from distributor.

But as you know you can buy the terminals from like mouser.

18ga wire and I didn't measure but whatever the coil post is... #12 or maybe #10.
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old Aug 12th, 17, 6:05 AM
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Re: Kill switch. Which wire, 69

It makes absolutely no difference if you interrupt the negative side of the coil or the positive side, because both sides carry the same current!! [ The coil current ].
You are adding wire length & a switch to the cct, all of which add resistance & reduce current available for the coil to produce spark.

A better solution is to use a switch to ground the coil -ve lead. Engine cannot start, & no additional resistance is added to the coil cct. Just make sure you do not leave the ign on, because if the points happen to be closed, coil will be getting current continually.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old Aug 12th, 17, 1:43 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Kill switch. Which wire, 69

Yeah I'm getting some buzz in my stereo I noticed this morning.

Most likely due to the added resistance. And I also have a ton of extra wire in the cab.

Gtogeoff your solution got spell checked.

On the + side I have the 2 original wires.

You are saying to ground something.
If you see this maybe a few more details. I'm a rookie on this electrical.
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old Aug 12th, 17, 3:31 PM
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Re: Kill switch. Which wire, 69

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gtogeoff View Post
It makes absolutely no difference if you interrupt the negative side of the coil or the positive side, because both sides carry the same current!! [ The coil current ].
You are adding wire length & a switch to the cct, all of which add resistance & reduce current available for the coil to produce spark.

A better solution is to use a switch to ground the coil -ve lead. Engine cannot start, & no additional resistance is added to the coil cct. Just make sure you do not leave the ign on, because if the points happen to be closed, coil will be getting current continually.


A switch grounding out the negative wire from the coil to the points of course will keep the motor from starting but it won't make any difference if the points are open or closed if the key is left on.

The coil will be "energized" if the kill switch is on with the key on no matter if the points are closed or open because the kill switch emulates points closed - circuit complete.

(Reminds me of the old trick of connecting a wire from the cigarette lighter to that wire to act as a kill switch when the lighter is pushed in.)
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old Aug 13th, 17, 6:10 AM
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Re: Kill switch. Which wire, 69

Dean,
Not sure what you are getting at. If the engine is switched off & by chance the points happen to be in the closed position, then if the ign was left on, the coil is energised as long as the key is left in the on/run position.

Robb.

All you need is a simple on/off switch with two terminals that is rated for 5 amps or higher. Push button, toggle, lever whatever type you prefer.

Connect one terminal to ground. Connect the remaining terminal to the coil - ve terminal [ sometimes called 'dist' terminal ]. You will now have TWO wires at this coil terminal.
When the switch is in the on position, the engine cannot be started. Flick it to off to start the engine.

Hope that explains it.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old Aug 13th, 17, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Kill switch. Which wire, 69

Thanks that explains it.

since Ive already used the ground, soldered and spliced the wire, etc. is there a way to stick with the negative and reduce the extra resistance caused with lengthening the wire?

what are the negatives of the extra resistance in the ignition circuit?

in other words, should I start over or can I make what I have done so far be same as it was.

thanks

ROB

69 El Camino


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