Painless - Internal Alternator - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 17th, 05, 3:05 PM Thread Starter
 
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Unhappy Painless - Internal Alternator

We are just getting started on installing a Painless 18-circuit wiring harness. We are having a problem with correctly wiring up the internal alternator. We had problems with the alternator from the start when we purchased the car from a previous owner. We ended up taking it into an auto electrical shop and after installing a diode from terminal 1 to terminal 2 - all was well. Now with the painless wiring it is saying to attach the exciter (white) wire to terminal one and then have a jumper from terminal two to the alternator output lug (we currently have this jumper in now). It then shows to attach a wire that originates from the fuse block to the alternator output lug and that is supposed to be it.
We currently have a wire from the battery to the output lug, the diode from terminal 1 to terminal 2, and then the jumper from terminal 2 to the output lug. Additionally, two blue wires come off the output plug and go through the firewall.
Should we just go ahead and connect the exciter wire to terminal 1 (even though no wires go there now), keep the jumper and attach the wire from the fuse block to the output lug as directed? It doesn't seem to make sense as it doesn't call for any wires to hook up to the battery. As you can tell neither my husband nor I are expert auto electicians, so any help would be greatly apprecitated. Painless' support is closed today and I have read they are not too helpful anyway.
Thanks so much.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 17th, 05, 9:34 PM
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Greg
 
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Re: Painless - Internal Alternator

Quote:
Originally Posted by Damsel007
We are just getting started on installing a Painless 18-circuit wiring harness. We are having a problem with correctly wiring up the internal alternator. We had problems with the alternator from the start when we purchased the car from a previous owner. We ended up taking it into an auto electrical shop and after installing a diode from terminal 1 to terminal 2 - all was well.
I don't see how

Quote:
Originally Posted by Damsel007
Now with the painless wiring it is saying to attach the exciter (white) wire to terminal one
Yes, this wire should have 12 volts with the in the on position, zero volts with the key off and should go through a idiot light.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Damsel007
and then have a jumper from terminal two to the alternator output lug (we currently have this jumper in now).
Pin 2 should go to the horn relay, jumping it to the alternator output lug only mimics a 1 wire alternator

Quote:
Originally Posted by Damsel007
It then shows to attach a wire that originates from the fuse block to the alternator output lug and that is supposed to be it.
We currently have a wire from the battery to the output lug, the diode from terminal 1 to terminal 2, and then the jumper from terminal 2 to the output lug. Additionally, two blue wires come off the output plug and go through the firewall.
How does the fuse box tie in with the horn relay? Are you using any of the original wiring?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Damsel007
Should we just go ahead and connect the exciter wire to terminal 1 (even though no wires go there now),
Yes, and lose the diode
Quote:
Originally Posted by Damsel007
keep the jumper and attach the wire from the fuse block to the output lug as directed? It doesn't seem to make sense as it doesn't call for any wires to hook up to the battery. As you can tell neither my husband nor I are expert auto electicians, so any help would be greatly apprecitated. Painless' support is closed today and I have read they are not too helpful anyway.
Thanks so much.
Normally the output wire and Pin 2 ( the sense wire) go to the horn relay You can read about alternators and wiring them here
http://www.madelectrical.com/electr...delcoremy.shtml
and here
http://www.madelectrical.com/electr...threewire.shtml

Greg U


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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 18th, 05, 12:28 AM
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Ryan
 
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Re: Painless - Internal Alternator

Ooops, sorry i didn't chime in earlier, hook it up the way they say. The horn relay has been moved to the fuse bolck so you don't need that. If you hook it up as they say, it works! LOL, i just finished installing this kit so if you have ANY questions i can answer them. BTW, what year car is it?
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 18th, 05, 10:32 PM
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Re: Painless - Internal Alternator

I'm with the others. A diode between terminals 1 & 2 makes no sense whatsoever. Get it out of there.

The wire going to terminal 1 probably comes from the alternator light connection. Otherwise, Painless must put a resistor of some sort in the wire.

The wire from terminal 2 is the voltage sensing and needs to be connected to battery voltage. The alternator will keep the voltage at the point where that #2 wire is connected regulated. In other words, it will keep the voltage where that wire is connected at 14.3V. So, you should connect wire #2 to the junction block where the largest loads (electric fans) are connected.

Peter
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 19th, 05, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Painless - Internal Alternator

It is a 65 SS. We will proceed with it this weekend and let you know how it goes. Work is slow when we are working in 115 degree heat in a garage : - )
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 20th, 05, 3:43 AM
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Re: Painless - Internal Alternator

I here the there, one these days I'm installing a air conditioner in the garage.

Greg U


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