66 zap from ignition switch after turning off - Chevelle Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems.

 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 15, 9:36 PM Thread Starter
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Cecil
 
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66 zap from ignition switch after turning off

What a milestone today in my slow body off restoration. I'm finally starting the engine from the dash.
renewed the underdash wiring harness because of the fuse block went bad. Made the electrical system hot today and begin function checking everything. I wound up with only 2 problems so far.
1) Just no headlights: I think this is from not wiring the dimmer swith for sake of no mounting holes on the reproduction floor pans. The dimmer switch is not attached to the wiring harness. I will check on Thursday.
2) when the engine is turned off and the six almost stops a high voltage ( spark plug ? coil ? ) is felt at the key if you are not quick enough to pull your hand away in time. This is not the case until the key is off and the engine is almost at a stop. (last instant of a 1 second coast down from idle). I had the starter rebuild bcause it is the original.

Any Ideas or guesses welcome
Thanks for you help

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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 15, 11:07 PM
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Re: 66 zap from ignition switch after turning off

Quote:
Originally Posted by 6cylcecil View Post
What a milestone today in my slow body off restoration. I'm finally starting the engine from the dash.
renewed the underdash wiring harness because of the fuse block went bad. Made the electrical system hot today and begin function checking everything. I wound up with only 2 problems so far.
1) Just no headlights: I think this is from not wiring the dimmer swith for sake of no mounting holes on the reproduction floor pans. The dimmer switch is not attached to the wiring harness. I will check on Thursday.
2) when the engine is turned off and the six almost stops a high voltage ( spark plug ? coil ? ) is felt at the key if you are not quick enough to pull your hand away in time. This is not the case until the key is off and the engine is almost at a stop. (last instant of a 1 second coast down from idle). I had the starter rebuild because it is the original.

Any Ideas or guesses welcome
Thanks for you help
The dimmer switch must be plugged in as it simply directs power from the headlight switch to either the low beams or the high beams. It does not have to be grounded so you could plug it in, pull out the headlight switch and use your hand to click it back and forth to have it operate the headlights between low beam and high beam.

Do you have any relays on the car besides the horn relay ?. If so and the relay is powered down, it may be acting like an ignition coil and creating a high voltage if it doesn't have a clamping diode on it. I wonder too, some ignition switches required them to be grounded or they had a terminal on them for a ground and this was for doing a temp light test. When the key is turned to the cranking position, it would ground out the temp bulb in the dash and then when the key was in the run position, this would allow the temp light to work off of the sender on the engine.

Jim

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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 16, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Jim the headlights are fine after connecting the dimmer switch, but I noticed I have no dash lights, and the dome light stays on all the time. It'll take some sorting out but I'm hoping it is not the headlight switch. Replacing it would've have been way easier when I had the dash out of the car.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 16, 12:15 PM
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Re: 66 zap from ignition switch after turning off

Make sure the headlight switch is not turned all the way to the left as this puts the dome light on. Got nothing for you on the zapping, have never run into that.

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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 16, 2:16 PM
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Re: 66 zap from ignition switch after turning off

Quote:
Originally Posted by 6cylcecil View Post
Thanks Jim the headlights are fine after connecting the dimmer switch, but I noticed I have no dash lights, and the dome light stays on all the time. It'll take some sorting out but I'm hoping it is not the headlight switch. Replacing it would've have been way easier when I had the dash out of the car.
I believe on the Chevelle's the headlight switch sends power out to an LPS fuse in the fuse block and from there it goes out to the instrument panel lights. This output for the dash lights is variable so you can dim or brighten the lights. Also too since the headlight switch dims the instrument panel lights through an arm wiping on a wrapping of wire, maybe try rotating the switch fully clockwise, then counterclockwise a bunch of times and maybe the connections will clean themselves some and things start working.


I agree with oldcutlass, check the rotation of the headlight switch. In the headlight switch there is a switch that connects to ground to turn on the dome light(s). For troubleshooting if it's not a rotation problem with the switch and then you would unplug the headlight switch and the issue goes away, then I would think it's an issue with the headlight switch. If the dome lights were to still be on, then either one or both of the door switches are not lifting the ground for the dome light or there is a short to ground on the ground side of the dome light circuit.

Jim

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