Instrument fuse? - Chevelle Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems.

 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 15, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
Vince
 
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Instrument fuse?

Recently bought a 67, pretty solid just got some bugs to work out. Question is the console clock and dash clock don't work, dummy lights backlight to speedo do, fuse labeled instrument has no power to either side, with key on or off, suspect a broken wire, does this fuse power the clocks?
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 15, 10:23 PM
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Re: Instrument fuse?

That fuse gets it's power from the taillight fuse to alert you when the taillight fuse is blown.

Dash lights out - check taillights

Sounds like two separate problems.

It's a fairly common problem for the fuse holder clips to get corroded and not make contact with one end of the fuse.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 15, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
Vince
 
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Re: Instrument fuse?

How? Linked by a buss bar, jumper wire? Haven't pulled the fuse box so I'm not sure what the back looks like
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 15, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Instrument fuse?

Tail lights are working
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 15, 10:36 PM
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Re: Instrument fuse?

As I recall it's a green wire I think.
Let me see if I can find the diagram that our electricity guru, Coppertop posted.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 15, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
Vince
 
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Re: Instrument fuse?

Just checked, tail lights are working but brake lights aren't, clocks just fell off the priority list guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow night, thanks
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 28th, 15, 11:20 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Instrument fuse?

My apologies, just joined and first forum, didn't realize there are so many categories, should have put this under electrical
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 29th, 15, 8:53 AM
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Re: Instrument fuse?

Well that kills the taillight fuse theory.
The power comes from the headlight switch.
Orange wire feeds the dash light dimmer on the headlight switch and back out on dark green
https://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=392854


I'll move the thread to the electrical forum.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 29th, 15, 11:19 AM
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Re: Instrument fuse?

So you have both a console clock and dash clock ?? Maybe someone added the console clock later ?? Does the courtesy light work on the back of the console ?? I think the clock and that light feed off the same wire harness ?? (been awhile). The console clock is finicky because it has electrical points that are temperamental. Time to get your DVM out and start checking for voltage. For the brake light, that plunger switch for the brake pedal has a nut adjuster on it and if it's loose, won't' make contact with the brake pedal, or if it's too tight it will always contact the plunger. Lights come on when the plunger isn't compressed. Work the plunger on the brake light switch manually and see if you get lights. Check to make sure the wire is making good contact on the back of the plunger switch. The switch may be bad as well...easy fix. As mentioned earlier, check the fuse clips. Get some fine #220 sandpaper and carefully remove the oxidation on the fuse contacts. Wash off the residue with some contact cleaner. The clock needs to be on a fuse lug that is always on... Good Luck
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 29th, 15, 7:47 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Instrument fuse?

Yes sir it has both clocks, no gauges just dummy lights, everything works except the clocks and windshield wipers, have verified voltage to the wiper motor so I suspect it, as for the brake lights I shook some wires tonight and got one working (pretty high tech fix) the other is still out but got to take my son to ball practice so that ended that fast, must be a bad connection in the trunk, appears someone has done some wonder wiring back there In the past, might take a minute. My original question though is the fuse marked instruments I believe it is the 3rd maybe 4th one from the bottom of the block, I have no power to either side of the fuse block, it's just not getting voltage, I removed the fuse and dug around For a good connection on the feed side and still have nothing, was wondering if this fuse might power the clocks? Fuel gauge, dummy lights, back lights all work, I would have thought at least some of these would have come through that fuse?? Just gottta put some major time in with the meter and light I guess
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 29th, 15, 7:57 PM
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Re: Instrument fuse?

It's easy to spot the instrument fuse because it's the little short one.
That is unless a 67 is different. (which I don't know about)

{edit} Looks like it's not a short one according to Google

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 29th, 15, 11:34 PM
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Re: Instrument fuse?

lil short one is the instrument lights----should also illuminate the the console clock.

The two clocks (I believe) are powered by the dome lamp fuse--- might be the stop lamp fuse.

At any rate, the original clock in the dash should be powered by a yellow wire, but if the console was added later in life, no telling what is in there.

The factory console harness is should have a connector with orange, white, & grey wires
orange---courtesy lamp and clock feed
Grey-----clock and shift indicator lamp
White----courtesy lamp switch to ground

a black wire in that harness provides the ground for the clock and illumination for the shifter/clock lamps----begins and ends within the harness and is grounded to the front console bracket.

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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 15, 8:48 PM
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Re: Instrument fuse?

If everything else works just fine chances are the clocks are just dead.

Clocks rely on unswitched battery power, which also provides power to the cigarette lighter and dome/courtesy lighting.

If the clocks have power and ground, but no-go, then that's nothing out of the ordinary (other then the fact you have 2 clocks ), the original units suffer from lack of lubrication and a very crude rewind mechanism in which the lack of lube and variance of their supply voltage (like a person letting the car battery get weak or go dead) will result in burnt rewind contact points and coils.

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