Ignition Switch - Chevelle Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems.

 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Dec 1st, 15, 3:21 AM Thread Starter
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Bill
 
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Ignition Switch

68 SS, 4 speed

JUst replaced my dash bezel and all switches. I checked out the operation and all seemed fine. I didn't have a radio in the car at the time as one was on the way from Retrosound (model 2). Radio arrive today and I got it installed and when I went to Acc. position on ignition to check the new radio the fusible link fried. Not sure if the radio worked or not. Quite a bit of smoke but no damage. All fuses on the fuse box were fine as well as the 15 amp fuse on the new radio. Rechecked all the wiring hookups on the radio and they were fine. I installed a new fusible link and same thing happened only this time the radio worked in Acc. when I first applied power but as soon as I turned it off the link blew again. I started thinking that maybe it's the ignition switch so I reinstalled the old switch, replaced the fuse ine link and now everything works great. I programmed the radio and put the ignition in ACC as well as the On position multiple times and it worked without a hitch. I believe the new ignition switch is a repo. and is the culprit. I"m wondering if anyone else has had problems with repo switches. I'm also wondering if I missed something that a more educated electrical person on this forum could comment on. The new fusible link I installed has a 40 amp fuse in it so the fuse blows rather than frying the wire and having all the smoke. Is that ok or do I need to install a wire? Thanks in advance for any help and comments.

Bill B.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Dec 4th, 15, 7:23 PM
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Joe
 
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Re: Ignition Switch

Bill,

You'd be better off keeping the factory set-up (assuming this is the stock wiring); Approx. 6 inches of 16 gauge fusible link that protects the 12 gauge red interior feed wire to the bulkhead. Traditional fuses won't take surges as well as the fuse links do and a properly terminated fuse link wire will last a long time without fears of corrosion/oxidation or loose assemblies adding resistance.

-If you don't stand for something, you'll fall for anything.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Dec 4th, 15, 7:38 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Ignition Switch

Thank you for the reply, Copper Top. The wiring is completely stock and I went ahead and installed a 14 gauge fusible link wire for the reason you stated. I talked to the vendor(NPD) who sold me the ignition switch and they were very helpful and sent me a new switch free of charge. Looking at the switch that caused the problem I noticed it was made in Mexico. Several professional auto people in my area have recommended that I just leave the original Delco switch installed because they say they very rarely fail, even after all the years in the car.

The car is back together and runs fine and I'm enjoying the new Retrosound 2 radio.

Bill B.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Dec 5th, 15, 7:49 PM
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Re: Ignition Switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by billbonn80 View Post
68 SS, 4 speed

. I believe the new ignition switch is a repo. and is the culprit. I"m wondering if anyone else has had problems with repo switches. I'm also wondering if I missed something that a more educated electrical person on this forum could comment on. The new fusible link I installed has a 40 amp fuse in it so the fuse blows rather than frying the wire and having all the smoke. Is that ok or do I need to install a wire? Thanks in advance for any help and comments.

Bill B.
Just had a similar issue with my 65 Ranchero
All new wiring---new switches
It developed an intermittent 'dead short'-----bad reproduction switch
After removing and checking every wire from the dash to the front bumper, I was comfortable there was no wiring damage.
I also put the original switch back in the dash.

As for the fusible link----be a good idea to keep that there
The link will allow a surge of electricity where the fuse will not.
All systems will have the potential for surges as accessories are turned on.

I tried using just the fuse on one of my Chrysler products long ago (after a ammeter failed and started a fire in my dash)---did not work out to well.
every time I hit a power accy that pulled any amps at all (windows-seat-heater) the car went dead---fusible link fixed that----along with a new ammeter

Bryan's toyz

59 ElCamino 454/TKO 5spd--(daddy)
66 ElCamino 3oh7/TKO 5spd (mousey) Almost done
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65 Ranchero v8/4-spd, that my uncle bought new
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Dec 6th, 15, 2:46 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Ignition Switch

Thanks for the input, Bryan.

I still would like to install a new ignition switch and I now know that I can replace it with the dash in place. If I do I'll be getting a NOS switch or checking GM dealers for a American made switch.

Bill B.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Dec 6th, 15, 5:54 PM
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Re: Ignition Switch

Bill,

You'll probably have better luck find a NOS switch then an American made unit anytime soon. eBay can turn up some interesting finds if you watch carefully enough.

Also, just to clarify, the fusible link is 16 gauge, not 14. The 14 gauge is used from the battery to junction block behind the battery. The 16 gauge is what protects the 12 gauge interior feed.

-If you don't stand for something, you'll fall for anything.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Dec 6th, 15, 6:36 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Ignition Switch

Coppertop....The fusible link that fried was the one from the positive battery cable to the junction box on the radiator support. I saw a M.A.D. Enterprises diagram that says it uses 14 gauge wire so that is what I installed. I don't have a way to measure gauge of the wire the fusible link goes to so I'm assuming I used the correct gauge. Please let me know if I'm not correct. Thanks

Bill B.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Dec 6th, 15, 8:32 PM
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Re: Ignition Switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by billbonn80 View Post
Coppertop....The fusible link that fried was the one from the positive battery cable to the junction box on the radiator support. I saw a M.A.D. Enterprises diagram that says it uses 14 gauge wire so that is what I installed. I don't have a way to measure gauge of the wire the fusible link goes to so I'm assuming I used the correct gauge. Please let me know if I'm not correct. Thanks

Bill B.
That's interesting...

Bill, you are correct. The fusible link from B+ to junction block is indeed 14 gauge. In the stock set-up it is about 17 inches from battery terminal to junction block.

I'm kinda surprised the 16 gauge did not blow first, as this is designed to protect the main interior feed, as the 14 gauge battery link is designed to protect the charging circuit. The 16 gauge fusible link that connects right to the horn relay (which is about 6 inches long from its splice point on the 12 gauge red wire to the bulkhead from the spade connection on the horn relay) is meant to blow when the there is a short on the interior main power feed.

Most fusible link wire has printing on the outside of the jacket giving either the AWG (American wire gauge) or MM^2 size designation.

-If you don't stand for something, you'll fall for anything.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Dec 6th, 15, 8:54 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Ignition Switch

The 16 gauge fusible link you refer to got hot but did not burn through. It definitely had a burned smell to the insulation so I stripped off the insulation and put heat shrink on it. Now that I've researched my problem I'm surprised also that the wire off the battery went first.The wire from the battery to radiator bulkhead was not fusible link and the folks at the parts store weren't sure what it was. I am posting a picture of the wire. On the insulation it has printed "High current power wire." I've had the Chevelle out a couple of times and everything works so I'm lucky no serious damage was done.

Bill B.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Dec 6th, 15, 9:03 PM
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Re: Ignition Switch

Yes, glad no serious damage!

Not sure on that wire pictured...

Fusible link wire feels "squishy" for lack of better words. It is very rubbery feeling, as the insulation is special that it quenches any heat or flames where regular plastic composition wire melts and then can ultimately can become a product to feed combustion and spread flames.

Traditionally fusible link wire should have printing on it that says something to the effect "FUSE LINK" or "FUSIBLE LINK WIRE" and then the gauge of wire since this important to the application needing replacement.

-If you don't stand for something, you'll fall for anything.
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