CS130 Alternator, Autometer gauges, and generator light removal... - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 7th, 15, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
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CS130 Alternator, Autometer gauges, and generator light removal...

I'm in the process of wiring Autometer electronic speedometer, tach, and quad gauges in my 1965 Chevelle. I have upgraded to a CS130 alternator. I plan on buying a Painless Plug alternator pigtail with the resistor for the L terminal exciter wire on the alternator. I will not use the Generator light since I am not using the factory gauges. Can I use this wire to power a 12 volt accessory (I need to confirm the gauge of the wire, possibly the Quad gauge)? If not, should I just cut out the plug for the bulb & shrink wrap the wires? If I do this, I should be okay running the wires (brown/brown with white strip to the ignition) that run in parallel with the Generator light wires, correct? Or, should I remove the Generator light plug & solder the wires together eliminating the plug?

I've searched the site but most people want to use the factory Generator light or Amp gauge. Since I don't want the light, I'm open to any suggestions or questions to make sure I do this right the first time.

Thank you!

Rob

1965 Malibu SS


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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 8th, 15, 11:18 AM
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Re: CS130 Alternator, Autometer gauges, and generator light removal...

Quote:
Originally Posted by rxn0001 View Post
I'm in the process of wiring Autometer electronic speedometer, tach, and quad gauges in my 1965 Chevelle. I have upgraded to a CS130 alternator. I plan on buying a Painless Plug alternator pigtail with the resistor for the L terminal exciter wire on the alternator. I will not use the Generator light since I am not using the factory gauges. Can I use this wire to power a 12 volt accessory (I need to confirm the gauge of the wire, possibly the Quad gauge)? If not, should I just cut out the plug for the bulb & shrink wrap the wires? If I do this, I should be okay running the wires (brown/brown with white strip to the ignition) that run in parallel with the Generator light wires, correct? Or, should I remove the Generator light plug & solder the wires together eliminating the plug?

I've searched the site but most people want to use the factory Generator light or Amp gauge. Since I don't want the light, I'm open to any suggestions or questions to make sure I do this right the first time.

Thank you!
Custom wiring harness not withstanding,
and I cant say for certain but you cant bypass the light, the alt needs the resistance to "excite". I would keep the light, some warning is better than no warning of failure.

Marc S


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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 8th, 15, 4:58 PM
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Rob
 
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Re: CS130 Alternator, Autometer gauges, and generator light removal...

Any wire used for an accessory needs to be fused, so don't think using the gen. warning circuit is a good idea. With the internal regular you can just cut out or shrink wrap those wires for the gen. warning bulb since you are going to be using a voltage gauge.

You might have better luck running the sensor wire to the main power distribution center "usually horn relay" as described here> http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...esensing.shtml

More good reading here from MADElectrical.com http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

Those links should answer most of your questions Rob.

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 8th, 15, 8:06 PM
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Re: CS130 Alternator, Autometer gauges, and generator light removal...

Quote:
Originally Posted by rxn0001 View Post
I'm in the process of wiring Autometer electronic speedometer, tach, and quad gauges in my 1965 Chevelle. I have upgraded to a CS130 alternator. I plan on buying a Painless Plug alternator pigtail with the resistor for the L terminal exciter wire on the alternator. I will not use the Generator light since I am not using the factory gauges. Can I use this wire to power a 12 volt accessory (I need to confirm the gauge of the wire, possibly the Quad gauge)? If not, should I just cut out the plug for the bulb & shrink wrap the wires? If I do this, I should be okay running the wires (brown/brown with white strip to the ignition) that run in parallel with the Generator light wires, correct? Or, should I remove the Generator light plug & solder the wires together eliminating the plug?

I've searched the site but most people want to use the factory Generator light or Amp gauge. Since I don't want the light, I'm open to any suggestions or questions to make sure I do this right the first time.

Thank you!
There are (2) wire connections apart of the factory set-up. Before the "excite" wire leaves for under the hood, there is a junction apart of the fuse block/dash harness. There is a 10 ohm resistance wire from the ignition "accessory" position lug on the key switch to the bulkhead connector (bulkhead links the underhood wiring to the back of the fuse block). The other connection to the junction is a wire that leads up to one side of the dummy light bulb. Simply disconnect both wires going to the dummy GEN light and tape each end off. You can not do away with the resistance wire. The pigtail with the resistor built in will satisfactorily bump up the resistance in series with the "L" connection on the new alternator so you don't have to worry about damaging the internal regulator.

One thing to be aware of...if you are the type of person to use the accessory position of the key switch (such as listening to the radio with the car off), your alternator's regulator will be running the whole time. This isn't ideal, but you would have to do some rewiring to over-come this original GM design in the days of pre-electronically controlled internal regulators.

You should not be using any of the factory alternator power connections under-dash for custom add-ons.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 9th, 15, 8:37 PM Thread Starter
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Re: CS130 Alternator, Autometer gauges, and generator light removal...

Thanks, I have read most of the information on the Mad Electrical site a few times. There's a lot of information! I plan on using the horn relay for "sensing" if I do not add a new distribution block. I'm leaning towards the horn relay at this point.

Rob

1965 Malibu SS


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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 9th, 15, 8:53 PM Thread Starter
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Re: CS130 Alternator, Autometer gauges, and generator light removal...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coppertop View Post
There are (2) wire connections apart of the factory set-up. Before the "excite" wire leaves for under the hood, there is a junction apart of the fuse block/dash harness. There is a 10 ohm resistance wire from the ignition "accessory" position lug on the key switch to the bulkhead connector (bulkhead links the underhood wiring to the back of the fuse block). The other connection to the junction is a wire that leads up to one side of the dummy light bulb. Simply disconnect both wires going to the dummy GEN light and tape each end off. You can not do away with the resistance wire. The pigtail with the resistor built in will satisfactorily bump up the resistance in series with the "L" connection on the new alternator so you don't have to worry about damaging the internal regulator.

One thing to be aware of...if you are the type of person to use the accessory position of the key switch (such as listening to the radio with the car off), your alternator's regulator will be running the whole time. This isn't ideal, but you would have to do some rewiring to over-come this original GM design in the days of pre-electronically controlled internal regulators.

You should not be using any of the factory alternator power connections under-dash for custom add-ons.
Thank you! This confirms exactly what I thought on the resistance wire from the ignition. I will remove the gen light from the harness and shrink wrap the ends. I will not use any of the factory wires to power or ground the aftermarket gauges.

Do you think it is best to wire all of the aftermarket lights & gauges to a common 12 volt & negative wire & tie into the spades on the fuse box with an inline fuse? I would have an ignition 12 volt wire to power each gauge & a 12 volt wire for the lights for the Quad gauge, the Speedometer, the tach, the radio, and the ECM for my 4l80E transmission. Or would it be better to add on a separate fuse box or junction box in the engine compartment to run all of the aftermarket accessories? If so, any suggestions on what to purchase?

Rob

1965 Malibu SS


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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 9th, 15, 9:18 PM Thread Starter
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Re: CS130 Alternator, Autometer gauges, and generator light removal...

By the way, I also have a remote starter solenoid. I had some of my accessories (I will need to confirm, MSD box, for sure) connected to the solenoid. My goal is to have a clean & effective wiring harness when this project if complete. Should I consider running all of my accessories off one buss bar to ensure accurate remote voltage sensing for the alternator? If appears so from what I've read. I'm open to any feedback or suggestions.

Rob

1965 Malibu SS


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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 15, 9:08 PM
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Re: CS130 Alternator, Autometer gauges, and generator light removal...

Rob,

It is indeed ideal to have a central distribution point for the loads and also provides an ideal spot for your "remote" sensing. If you can mimic Mark's kit set-up on the MAD site, that should fit your needs.

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