67 Chevelle factory AMP gauge woes continue - Chevelle Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems.

 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Jun 22nd, 15, 12:25 AM Thread Starter
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Rick
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Horsham Pa, 19454
Posts: 121
67 Chevelle factory AMP gauge woes continue

I've posted before but I'm still stuck. Sent gauge out for testing and restoration, tested good, sent a second time, still tested good. Just installed a new forward light harness for a factory gauge car which was identical to the original harness that I removed just now.

Positive battery lead goes to junction block
Red thick wire fused link in new harness to junction block
Red thick wire to outboard (left) side of horn relay
Black fused link to inboard (right) leg of horn relay

Still no movement from the gauge

Does anyone have heep experience with these?

Thanks,
Rick
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Jun 22nd, 15, 6:28 AM
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Les
 
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Re: 67 Chevelle factory AMP gauge woes continue

Try using an extra ground wire temporarily with an alligator clip?
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Jun 22nd, 15, 4:42 PM Thread Starter
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Rick
 
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Re: 67 Chevelle factory AMP gauge woes continue

ground the gauge I assume, tried that, no joy
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Jun 22nd, 15, 8:29 PM
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Joe
 
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Re: 67 Chevelle factory AMP gauge woes continue

You never, ever ground an AMP gauge. That is how things get destroyed. The factory original ammeters are voltmeters that respond to a small voltage developed across the factory 10 ga. red charging line that runs across the radiator support from the horn relay to the junction block behind the battery.

One ammeter lead goes to the junction block behind the battery. The block connects (3) wires together. 1) the 10 ga red wire that runs across the radiator support. 2) one side ammeter. 3) the connection to battery (+) terminal.

At the horn relay there are two screws used for tying the electrical wiring connections together... The other side of the ammeter connects to either screw.

The quickest way to check the ammeter is to have the engine turned OFF and turn on the headlights with the HI beams activated. The needle should deflect into the negative range (discharge area or "D").

Do you own a mutimeter?

-If you don't stand for something, you'll fall for anything.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Jun 23rd, 15, 3:36 PM Thread Starter
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Rick
 
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Location: Horsham Pa, 19454
Posts: 121
Re: 67 Chevelle factory AMP gauge woes continue

Update: I used a meter and validated that I indeed have 12 volts to the AMP gauge connector (2 prong connector with solid black and Black/White wire. To me this verifies that the harness is working. So, can anyone share how to actually test the gauge itself? It's been out twice for professional restoration and testing, the first time was to restore and validate, the second time was to re-validate that it's working. Both times I'm told it's fine, ugh
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Jun 27th, 15, 3:10 PM Thread Starter
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Rick
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Horsham Pa, 19454
Posts: 121
Smile UPDATE: 67 Chevelle factory AMP gauge woes continue

Finally golden thanks to Joe (CopperTop) who made a slick testing tool using a diode and a AA battery. Both my in car and spare NOS gauges work fine. The issue was in the pin connection at the fuse clock. All good now and all my factory gauges are working, first time in almost 20 years!!!

Thanks CopperTop
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old May 3rd, 16, 2:30 PM
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Ron
 
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Re: 67 Chevelle factory AMP gauge woes continue

I also have an issue with my 1967 amp gauge. It works but doesn,t respond like it should. With the headlights on bright, radio, blower motor, and brake lights on the needle only goes down half way to the first line. Then when you start it, it will only show charging half way to the first charging line. Any ideas, any help would be appreciated.
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