A CS130 requires a little more than just a diagram. If you are going to take advantage of it's output, you'll need to upgrade your wiring (unless for some reason you're not adding any major electrical loads, just wanting to use a CS130 with a serpentine set-up?)
There's a lot of information/mis-information on the net. I did some checking and even spoke to my old boss in regards to the set-up.
There are are 2 different styles of CS130's. They look the same, but the connector terminals are different. The difference is the internal voltage regulator set-up.
The lettering on the plug signifies the type of internal regulator arrangement.
P L F S and S I L P
Typically the PLFS is for later cars that utilize modern computers--i.e. use a BCM (body contol module). The SILP was for the "simpler" designs
The SILP would be the easier route, but will require some wiring mods. Ideally the I "igntion" line would go to "un-resistor'd" 12 volts that is only hot when the key is on/engine running. The L can then be connected to a dummy lamp.
Are you intending to use a dummy lamp? You can't keep your factory ammeter if you have upraded the factory wiring to allow for the higher current loads on the main battery + feeds.
The simplest would be to now connect your factory brown wire that went to the original external voltage regulator to the "I" terminal. Use a voltmeter inside the vehicle as your reference instead of a dummy light or ammeter.
You may connect your "S" terminal to the rear of the alternator at the big battery connection, run it to a remote sensing spot (like a distribution block) for better voltage control, or leave it disconnected and the alternator's voltage regulator will sense the internal voltage by default.
The PLFS units are tricky as you can easily damage the internal regulator. They are meant for the modern electronics in cars. The "L" terminal for example needs to see a far greater resistance in series than anything the the factory could provide in the Chevelle design.