Wiring in an internal regulated alternator - Page 2 - Chevelle Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems.

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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old May 18th, 14, 11:10 AM
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Re: Wiring in an internal regulated alternator

I noticed the flipped wires too.

And, if you do not use a charge light, THERE IS NO NEED FOR ANY WIRE UP TO TERMINAL 1, NOR A RESISTOR, DIODE, NOR ANY OTHER CONNECTION TO THE NUMBER 1 TERMINAL FOR THE ALTERNATOR TO WORK JUST FINE.

This is a super simple thing, not brain surgery, don't make it so hard others cannot figure it out.

I just got done with one of these debacles over the phone. Member of a GM truck site mounted a 12SI alternator in place of the 10DN, and asked on that site just this question, and got the usual misinformation and insanity. After two full weeks of not being allowed to drive his truck, because most of the "gospel" wire up instructions caused the engine to stall after about 10 seconds, he called me,, and over the phone in less than 4 minutes, we had it dialed and working WITH his stock charge light.

This ain't that hard, people. Large wire form solenoid battery terminal, or battery positive, to BATT lug on back of the 12SI, make 14 gauge permanent jumper wire from BATT to side term number 2, with gauges only, DONE, WORKS, FINISHED. IF the vehicle has a charge light, and you wish to use it, jump number 4 wire from old 10DN regulator connector, to alternator terminal number 1, LIGHT WORKS AS STOCK, ALSO, DONE, WORKS, FINISHED.

It is just that simple, don't make it any harder than GM did it in the first place. No need to run around in circles chasing one's tail from all sorts of issues that don't need to be created in the first place.
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old May 18th, 14, 12:18 PM
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Re: Wiring in an internal regulated alternator

If you wire it according to how GM did it originally, it will work but wont be ideal. Remote voltage sensing is better placed downstream of the alternator-not just looped to the charge post. No GM vehicle has it wired that way since about 1992-must be a reason for it. But as I said, it'll work but won't be ideal-unless you're comfortable modifying an older, stock charging system to better take advantage of the later style HO alternators, its probably best to wire it as GM did it originally. But to test the logic behind it, perform a voltage system test throughout the charging system and let us know what results you get.
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old May 18th, 14, 8:26 PM
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Re: Wiring in an internal regulated alternator

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Ray View Post
I noticed the flipped wires too.

And, if you do not use a charge light, THERE IS NO NEED FOR ANY WIRE UP TO TERMINAL 1, NOR A RESISTOR, DIODE, NOR ANY OTHER CONNECTION TO THE NUMBER 1 TERMINAL FOR THE ALTERNATOR TO WORK JUST FINE.

This is a super simple thing, not brain surgery, don't make it so hard others cannot figure it out.

I just got done with one of these debacles over the phone. Member of a GM truck site mounted a 12SI alternator in place of the 10DN, and asked on that site just this question, and got the usual misinformation and insanity. After two full weeks of not being allowed to drive his truck, because most of the "gospel" wire up instructions caused the engine to stall after about 10 seconds, he called me,, and over the phone in less than 4 minutes, we had it dialed and working WITH his stock charge light.

This ain't that hard, people. Large wire form solenoid battery terminal, or battery positive, to BATT lug on back of the 12SI, make 14 gauge permanent jumper wire from BATT to side term number 2, with gauges only, DONE, WORKS, FINISHED. IF the vehicle has a charge light, and you wish to use it, jump number 4 wire from old 10DN regulator connector, to alternator terminal number 1, LIGHT WORKS AS STOCK, ALSO, DONE, WORKS, FINISHED.

It is just that simple, don't make it any harder than GM did it in the first place. No need to run around in circles chasing one's tail from all sorts of issues that don't need to be created in the first place.
You can get away with no resistor or idiot light. I have seen it done.

BUT!

The diagram I posted is directly from Delco; they don't say do it that way without reason.

The regulator circuit will dissipate a lot of additional power and have a limited life without a current limiting series element (like the resistor or the idiot light).

Your choice.

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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old May 19th, 14, 11:36 AM
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Re: Wiring in an internal regulated alternator

Oh, PLEASE, I do this EVERY day, correctly, and, there is NO problem in doing it so, proven fact, via the aftermarket "single wire" alternators offered today, and, the regulators patterned in them from the originals, GM Farm and Industrial Implement alternators that were the FIRST SINGLE WIRE 12SI ALTERNATORS MADE.

Those alternators did not run a wire four feet long from the battery to the number 2 terminal, they were done inside the alternator with a simple JUMPER between the regulator and BATT lug inside the alternator, abut 5/8ths of an inch long (shorter than an outside jumper), and NONE OF THEM RAN A WIRE OF ANY SORT, RESISTED, DIODE IN PLACE, NEITHER INSIDE, NOR OUTSIDE OF THEM, PERIOD, PURE FACT.

I do this for a living, every day, folks, and know how it works correctly. That IS the way I choose to do it, not some strange 'wire it to the car behind it' method thought up by someone that really doesn't have a clue.

If the jumper and no number 1 wire were so bad, how come, in over 800 of these I have done for people, over the last 25 years or so, for all sorts of applications, all the way from my friend's fork lift, to motorcycles, to all makes of cars and trucks, has NOT ONE FAILED, NOR FAILED TO CHARGE EXACTLY AS ALL OF 'EM SHOULD HAVE?

There are always those that insist on waving their arms in the air and yelling that the simplest way, that has worked for decades, and is the way GM did it in the first place, ISN'T "the best way to do it". In this case, it IS the easiest, best, and, ONLY way to do it, period.

NO rant, no rave, just decades of hands-on experience, and, NO failures.

NOBODY is forcing anyone to do it the right way, and, many have come up with 'BETTER WAYS' to do an operation, that somehow, just don't work as well as the way they scream aren't the best way. Do it any way YOU wish to, but, don't complain when it doesn't work as advertized, after you were shown the right way it should be.
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old May 19th, 14, 5:11 PM
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Re: Wiring in an internal regulated alternator

I just posted what the Delco engineers wrote.

There have been different regulator designs over the years. The Delco/Delphi solution works for all but the newest regulator designs.

If a guy working in his garage knows better (and there is precedential evidence that this can happen, Smokey Yanick) then have at it.

Don't shoot the messenger though...

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post #21 of 21 (permalink) Old May 20th, 14, 7:06 PM
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Re: Wiring in an internal regulated alternator

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Ray View Post
GM Farm and Industrial Implement alternators that were the FIRST SINGLE WIRE 12SI ALTERNATORS MADE.

....And I wish that would have stayed that way....We wouldn't get in such heated debates if automotive electricals hadn't been integrated with another industry segment completely.

Dave, Relax. No one is personally attacking you. We are all entitled to our own opinions and relating our own experiences.

I think from now on, the first question should be what exactly does the person have or want to accomplish? A one wire hook-up will accomplish the task for for most scenarios, but certainly not all. There's a big difference between a father/son project on a stock vehicle and one of extreme customization with dual electric fans, EFI and (2) 1000 watt audio amplifiers in the trunk.


Ron,

I think you misunderstood Dave's post. He never mentioned NOT using any resistance for the excite wire hook-up. He mentioned not using the excite wire period.



Peace.


-If you don't stand for something, you'll fall for anything.
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