Horn relay on a 67 - Chevelle Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems.

 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 00, 7:32 PM Thread Starter
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Dale
 
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Horn not working. Press horn button and a "click" is heard at relay so I assume black wire from firewall to relay is good. For some reason, pressing the horn button also interrupts the electric fuel pump - I can hear it cycle even when car not running.

If I disconnect double-green wires from relay and jump to battery, nothing. Should there be?

I cleaned all connections on both horns and think I have a good ground between horn mount and body but not sure.

Any help appreciated.



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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 00, 8:48 PM
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Joe
 
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What what what??? Interrupts the fuel pump!

First off where do you have your power for your fuel pump coming off of? It shouldn't be connected to the horn circuitry.

Quick ground and horn check; take a piece of wire and connect one side to the battery (+) terminal and take the other side and briefly touch it to the horn connector on the horn(s) itself. You should hear a short blast from the horn. If you don't, then check the actual horn ground, it needs good metal contact to the radiator support/hood latch mechanism. If the ground seems okay, the horn is bad.

Joe

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 00, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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Tried wire from battery to horns themselves...nothing at either horn. I assume a bad ground with the horn mounts? Surely both horns wouldn't go bad at the same time(?).

Not sure where fuel pump is wired in. It's an Accel high volume pump for fuel injection and I usually only hear it when first turning on the key. Pressing horn button would seem to make it cycle...very strange.

Anyway, I'll try grinding off more paint from inside fender and horn bracket.

I assume that if I hear a "click" from the relay that the black wire to firewall/steering column is Ok and relay is good?

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[This message has been edited by Dale McIntosh (edited 06-28-2000).]
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 00, 8:15 AM
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Rob
 
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Click means it's making a contact, BUT not always a good one. In my 67 mine was clicking but wasn't making good enough contact to work the horn. I used a bosch type 30 amp relay instead of paying a small fortune for a replacemtnt horn relay.

Remember a horn relay switches the ground.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 00, 1:18 PM
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Have you put a test light or voltmeter on the wire to the horn to see if it is getting power to the horn. One more thing to try is to apply 12v to the horn and turn the adjuster screw in or out until the horn blows and startles the lint out of you. Sometimes the points in the horns get worn/dirty and just need to be adjusted.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 00, 5:34 PM Thread Starter
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Dale
 
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Problem found. Tested both horns on my Elky and they worked fine. Tested Elky horns in Chevelle and they worked fine. Hmmm? The wire connectors from relay to horn weren't taped when car was painted. Duh! Cleaned terminals on the wires and voila - honk, honk. Cleaned every other connection except those. I guess that's what happens when frustration sets in late at night.

Thanks all for you help and tips.



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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 00, 9:28 PM
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Just a note on what the horn relay does. It switches 12 volts to the horns, it does not switch the ground. The 12 volts comes to the horn relay from the battery via the connection point mounted to the radiator support in front of the battery. Pressing the horn button on the steering wheel supplies ground to the horn relay, the relay is energized and 12 volts is routed to the horns. The horns are grounded where they are mounted to the radiator support.
This is the important part. The ground from the steering wheel is passed through the flexible coupling that ties the steering column to the steering box. If you look at a rag joint you will notice an electrical connection between 2 of the posts that are 90 degrees apart. I had to rebuild my rag joint to get my horns to work due to corrosion at one of the posts. You can use a meter to check resistance between the steering box and the shaft from the column. It should be no more than about 2 ohms.




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Bob Murray 66 Malibu
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 30th, 00, 8:58 PM
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Rob
 
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Thats What I mwanted to say, Just said it wrong.

Many falsly believe that when you press on the horn you are applying 12 v. to the relay.

the truth, the relay alresdy has 12v and you manually apply the ground.
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