Alternator & External Regulators - Chevelle Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems.

 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 2nd, 14, 3:34 AM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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Alternator & External Regulators

I changed out my Alternator to a 65 Amp in the summer, I believe the original amperage for car would be a 37 AMP

I did not change out the External Regulator when I changed the Alternator, my question is do the Alternator & External Regulator have to match (example; for a 37 Amp Alternator you need a certain External Regulators) or are all External Regulators the same?




now here is my situation I have

back in October when I put the motor back in and got the car running I had no inner fenders and wanted to go for a quick ride around the block, well I didn't know better and I pulled the battery out since there was no battery tray to hold the battery, now reading the comments it makes sense on why I kept blowing ignition modules and coils

Now my question is, do I have replace the Alternator and external regulator

1967 Chevelle Oshawa Built Car
-427 .60 over, Lunati 60211 Roller cam
-Super T10 2.64
-Dana 60 3.54 Posi
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 2nd, 14, 11:56 AM
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Greg.
 
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Re: Alternator & External Regulators

There are a couple of ways to do the new Alternator with or without a External Regulator.

- 1 Wire Alternator with an internal Regulator

- 3 Wire Alternator with an internal Regulator

- Stock Type Alternator with an External Regulator


If you convert from the external regulator alternator,
you no longer need the regulator that is mounted on the radiator support.
You also don't need some of the wiring that is present in the loom.

Replace original 10 gauge main wire from the alternator to the horn relay with a new 8 gauge wire.

Also, do the headlight relay conversion, this will make a big difference when powering halogen bulbs with full voltage.

I have a word document that provides more detail on the following;
- Alternator, internal regulator or not, Page 5
- Alternator Help, Page 6
- What size alternator, Page 8
- Alternator & Regulator Upgrade, Page 8

plus diagrams and Team Chevelle Threads/Posts

Email me if you want me to send it to you .

67 Chevelle Malibu SS Cdn
Born 283 / PG / A51
468/TH400 2,500 stall/ S60 3.70 Gs
Prev Best on M/T ET S/S #3454 street Tires/Dress 2018/05/20
60' = 1.664
1/8 = 7.532 et / 91 mph
1/4 = 11.814 et / 115 mph
NEW Best with 3,500+ Stall TC 2019/09/08
60' = 1.547
1/8 = 7.311 et / 91.76 mph
1/4 = 11.595 et / 114.28 mph


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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 2nd, 14, 1:49 PM
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Vince
 
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Re: Alternator & External Regulators

what alt do you have ? int or ext regulator model?
did you put the battery back into the car and wire it up??

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 2nd, 14, 2:06 PM
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Wink Re: Alternator & External Regulators

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1967 chevelle View Post
Now my question is, do I have replace the Alternator and external regulator
You can have the alternator tested off of the car to see if it's OK. I would replace the regulator with the solid state type like the Wells VR715, available at Autozone and other retailers.
There's no reason or need to change the system over to a one-wire alternator. It will probably create more problems for you and you won't see any better performance from the one-wire than you will get from the 3-wire and solid state regulator.
BillL

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 2nd, 14, 7:47 PM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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Re: Alternator & External Regulators

Quote:
Originally Posted by VinceS427bb View Post
what alt do you have ? int or ext regulator model?
did you put the battery back into the car and wire it up??
the alternator is a External regulator model, yea the next day I put the inners in and put the battery back in,

from taking out the battery while the car was running what damage could I do?

1967 Chevelle Oshawa Built Car
-427 .60 over, Lunati 60211 Roller cam
-Super T10 2.64
-Dana 60 3.54 Posi
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 2nd, 14, 8:02 PM
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Joe
 
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Re: Alternator & External Regulators

The first thing any manual from GM states, dating back to when alternators were first introduced is "Never run the Delcotron (that's the alternator) open circuit".

This means you never disconnect any or both battery leads from the battery when the engine is running.

The battery acts as a giant "filter" or capacitor. It smoothes out the pulsating voltage from the diodes in the alternator. This ripple can contain nasty damaging spikes. You didn't do any justice to your factory and aftermarket equipment by running it in this manner. What appears to be good, may have had it's "life" shortened....

The first thing to do is replace your regulator (as suggested earlier) with the Wells/Duralast VR-715 solid state regulator. Now with the battery in place, start car and run engine at about 1500-2000 rpm's. Take a voltmeter and measure the voltage at the battery terminals. Should be at least 13.8 volts. Higher than 14.8 volts is a problem too.

The previous voltage regulator is not necessarily damaged, but time to get with modern times and upgrade to solid state technology. For your previous question, some early regulators can not handle larger amperage alternators. 1966 model year is a good example with a specific part number for the regulator that has a built in diode to prevent contact damage when using with the high output 61+ amp alternators.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 2nd, 14, 8:59 PM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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Re: Alternator & External Regulators

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coppertop View Post
The first thing any manual from GM states, dating back to when alternators were first introduced is "Never run the Delcotron (that's the alternator) open circuit".

This means you never disconnect any or both battery leads from the battery when the engine is running.

The battery acts as a giant "filter" or capacitor. It smoothes out the pulsating voltage from the diodes in the alternator. This ripple can contain nasty damaging spikes. You didn't do any justice to your factory and aftermarket equipment by running it in this manner. What appears to be good, may have had it's "life" shortened....

The first thing to do is replace your regulator (as suggested earlier) with the Wells/Duralast VR-715 solid state regulator. Now with the battery in place, start car and run engine at about 1500-2000 rpm's. Take a voltmeter and measure the voltage at the battery terminals. Should be at least 13.8 volts. Higher than 14.8 volts is a problem too.

The previous voltage regulator is not necessarily damaged, but time to get with modern times and upgrade to solid state technology. For your previous question, some early regulators can not handle larger amperage alternators. 1966 model year is a good example with a specific part number for the regulator that has a built in diode to prevent contact damage when using with the high output 61+ amp alternators.
I had a look at the Duralast/Voltage Regulator Part#VR715, looks similar just not as big

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...ier=130005_0_0_

are these voltage regulators adjustable like the old ones?


I assume with this new Duralast/Voltage Regulator it will work fine with my 65 Amp alternator

1967 Chevelle Oshawa Built Car
-427 .60 over, Lunati 60211 Roller cam
-Super T10 2.64
-Dana 60 3.54 Posi
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 2nd, 14, 9:41 PM
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Joe
 
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Re: Alternator & External Regulators

There's nothing mechanical inside the Wells regulator. That's the beauty, all electronic, nothing to adjust and re-adjust.

That's why the shell is so much smaller. If you want it to look "old skool", carefully pry off the plastic cover and transfer the gasket and old mechanical's regulators cover on to it. It will look stock.

There should be no issues using this regulator with your alternator. Not sure on the 65 amp rating, the originals were 61 for A/C cars or heavy duty options, most parts store rebuilds are 63 amp, but regardless, it should work.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 2nd, 14, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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Re: Alternator & External Regulators

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coppertop View Post
There's nothing mechanical inside the Wells regulator. That's the beauty, all electronic, nothing to adjust and re-adjust.

That's why the shell is so much smaller. If you want it to look "old skool", carefully pry off the plastic cover and transfer the gasket and old mechanical's regulators cover on to it. It will look stock.

There should be no issues using this regulator with your alternator. Not sure on the 65 amp rating, the originals were 61 for A/C cars or heavy duty options, most parts store rebuilds are 63 amp, but regardless, it should work.
oh ok I will definitely pick one up then, thanks for all your help and everyone that commented,

anything else you think I should replace while I'm at it?

1967 Chevelle Oshawa Built Car
-427 .60 over, Lunati 60211 Roller cam
-Super T10 2.64
-Dana 60 3.54 Posi
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 2nd, 14, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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Re: Alternator & External Regulators

I believe this is the alternator I have

Powermaster Street Alternators 17102


http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...7102/overview/

65 amps

1967 Chevelle Oshawa Built Car
-427 .60 over, Lunati 60211 Roller cam
-Super T10 2.64
-Dana 60 3.54 Posi
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 20th, 14, 9:36 PM
wib
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Re: Alternator & External Regulators

kirk,
Don't know how to find an email address. Interested in what you have to say about alternators, ext / int VRs, headlight relays. I posted today looking for similar info for my 65 Malibu.

Wib
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 20th, 14, 11:08 PM
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Re: Alternator & External Regulators

Both stock and VR regs work with all amperage remote regulator alts.

EASY to get a 3 wire GM alternator to function correctly, one jumper wire, and, the large battery wire off the back of the old alt will make it work if there isn't a charge light. Another single wire from old reg wiring loom to alt will get the charge light working.

Sounds like a large cap HEI. If the coil got damaged, and they usually do that all by themselves, from the battery not in the circuit, it WILL continue to blow HEI modules, for what appears to be "no clear reason", and, if you didn't know that, would confuse the daylights out of you, until you changed the coil out of utter frustration.
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