Mysterious Battery Drain... - Page 3 - Chevelle Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems.

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post #31 of 42 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 00, 9:59 PM
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Dammit Wes, I was in Houston over the weekend! Well, we can't do anything about that now. You mentioned that the power drain stopped when you disconnedted the wire in front of the battery. That is the wire that goes to the fuse box and ignition switch via the horn relay. You might try unplugging the wire harness connector that goes to the ignition switch and see if that helps. I have a feeling that you might have a problem there since you mentioned being able to start the car without the key. If the switch doesn't seem to be the problem, try disconnecting the turn signal switch, and then the brake light switch. You want to try any switch that has power with the key off. Be ready to spend a Saturday afternoon on this
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post #32 of 42 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 00, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
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No Phillip, we never discuss the 502 plans in front of the 383...something about 'displacement envy' that gets these strokers all worked up. I'm afraid that if the obvious fix doesn't jump out at me soon, I may have to do what you are suggesting. Oh joy!

Thanks Randy, I'll definitely give your idea a try tomorrow...I'm hoping that it's the ignition switch. Guess I've needed to replace it and the key tumbler for some time now but just haven't gotten around to it yet. Thanks again fella's!
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post #33 of 42 (permalink) Old Mar 24th, 00, 5:01 PM
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I had this same problem with my 69 after I changed to a one wire that was also bought as a one wire new from NAPA. After getting stuck begging for a ride to work a couple of times, I bought a one wire converson harness from Year One. Installed the harness (a large rubber plugg that pluggs into the end of the regulator harness)and have been running fine ever sence.
Dont know where the drain was? Dont care! just know it solved the problem and only cost 15.95.
hope this helps?
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post #34 of 42 (permalink) Old Mar 25th, 00, 9:59 PM
 
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Try this; disconnect the NEGATIVE cable from the battery and connect an ammeter or test light in series with the cable and negative post.If there is current drain and every thing is off(glove box, dome light, Every thing, then look for the parasitic drain. Pull the fuses 1 at a time while watching the ammeter or test light. Don't take one fuse out and put it back in and take another out. Instead pull them out one at a time untill the light goes out or you run out of fuses. When you pull a fuse and the ammeter reads zero or test light goes out you need to find which circuits run to that bus bar(thats why you need to pull them 1 at a time and leave them out-current can find a path thru more than one fuse). An electrical schematic is invaluble here but you can find it by tracing wires. It's important to run the test this way or you could be on a wild goose chase and it's no fun. Let me know what you find with the parasitic drain test.
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post #35 of 42 (permalink) Old Mar 26th, 00, 8:50 AM
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Hi Wes just a thought is the dome light staying lit.
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post #36 of 42 (permalink) Old Mar 26th, 00, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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Toanderson, you mentioned pulling the negative battery cable and running the test from there...is there a difference between doing the tests off of the positive cable or the negative? If there isn't, I've already tested ALL fuses twice now (using the positive cable) and was still getting a drain from another source...even with ALL fuses pulled.

Snake, the dome light does not stay on - man I only wish it was that obvious!

One other test I did was disconnect both wires that run to the horn relay. You would think that that would have killed the drain for sure, but it didn't - still had current drain with the test light. I say that because I thought that the large single red wire (used to recharge the battery) went directly to the horn relay, or doesn't it? If I had the horn relay completely disconnected, shouldn't that have killed the mystery power drain? Confused.

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post #37 of 42 (permalink) Old Mar 26th, 00, 1:17 PM
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You should test with the negative cable and post, you are looking for a short to ground (from the component > body or frame > engine > negative terminal). If you use the positive terminal the internal battery resistence from the negative to positive posts becomes another factor. The dome light reminded me, are all your bulbs working? If one blows and shorts it could cause the drain.

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post #38 of 42 (permalink) Old Mar 26th, 00, 2:31 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks OrrieG, that does make sense...I'll do another fuse panel check using the negative battery cable this time instead of the positive. And yes, all lights on the car are working fine.
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post #39 of 42 (permalink) Old Mar 26th, 00, 9:45 PM
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wes...i had a similar untracelbe problem in my boat...
now i know this is the second battery but just check the water level..

a small /normal current draw will kill a battery with low water simply because the "reserve" or "capacity" isnt there...

i realize that its unlikely because you have the second battery in it but just be sure...

it solved my problem!

i thought batteries were still NO MAINTENANCE and this went on for a long time before i figured it out...
replaced the battery which solved the problem til it came back to haunt me when the water level dropped again in the new battery

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post #40 of 42 (permalink) Old Mar 27th, 00, 6:42 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Rich. That WAS part of the problem with my first battery. I bought it from AutoZone (big mistake BTW) thinking it was new and would be full of water...it was nearly empty! Anyway, this second battery is a new sealed battery so there is no maintenance to worry about on this one.

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post #41 of 42 (permalink) Old Mar 27th, 00, 9:43 AM
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I quickly read the posts and someone mentioned the cigarette lighter I think. I only mention it again because I didn't read that you tried it and this was the cause of my slow drain problem on my 71. Just reach around and unplug the connector and see if your problem is persists.

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post #42 of 42 (permalink) Old Mar 28th, 00, 12:33 PM
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had a car that the starter solenoid was shorted and drained the battery. Don't know if that would help but just a thought....

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