Connecting several cables to battery terminals - Chevelle Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems.

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post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 20, 9:37 PM Thread Starter
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Connecting several cables to battery terminals

I need to connect a few wires (EFI, extra fuse box, electric fan etc) to the battery, but I can't figure out a good way to do it. One way would be to install a power bus, but Holley says that the EFI needs to go directly to the battery and nothing else. I suspect they're saying that just to make sure that people don't rig it to something else and blame Holley for possible malfunctions, but it would still make sense to do it.

I found this Quadratech kit that would probably work, but I'd still like to know if there's a better (and neater) way to do it. Or maybe there's batteries with extra posts (like top and side) that would fit in a Chevelle?

https://www.quadratec.com/c/howto/re...angler-battery

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post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 20, 9:47 PM
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Re: Connecting several cables to battery terminals

I just picked up a dual terminal battery for a 69 Camaro that I have with a Sniper on it. Agree there is a lot of wires on the terminal bolts. With the new battery I'll be able to put all the extra wires on the side terminal posts.

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post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 20, 10:20 PM
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Re: Connecting several cables to battery terminals

I use this type of junct.

http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/cn-1.shtml

This site Madd Electric has a lit of great Information on these old systems


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post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 20, 10:51 PM
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Re: Connecting several cables to battery terminals

A power buss has the same electrical potential as hooking direct to the battery with properly sized cables and wire. There is no reason to overload the battery cable lugs.

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post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 20, 10:59 PM
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Re: Connecting several cables to battery terminals

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldcutlass View Post
A power buss has the same electrical potential as hooking direct to the battery with properly sized cables and wire. There is no reason to overload the battery cable lugs.
My feeling as well.

But in my line of work, I attach a 12 volt powered light to the battery of a lot of very new cars. And all of them have a buss built into the battery post.

This must have something to do with modern electronics, why, I don't know? But you frequently hear manufacturers say connect directly to the battery.



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post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 8th, 20, 8:17 AM
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Re: Connecting several cables to battery terminals

I'm running a battery with side and top posts on my 70 EC. Very handy for access to extra power.

No complaints. Be careful to not strip out the threads on the side posts. Lead is a soft metal.

Rick

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post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 8th, 20, 8:24 AM
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Re: Connecting several cables to battery terminals

Go to your local electrical supply house and get a double or triple 100 amp service take off lug.. Take some cuts of wire in and show them what you want to connect..
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post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 8th, 20, 9:23 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Connecting several cables to battery terminals

Quote:
Originally Posted by senna View Post
My feeling as well.

But in my line of work, I attach a 12 volt powered light to the battery of a lot of very new cars. And all of them have a buss built into the battery post.

This must have something to do with modern electronics, why, I don't know? But you frequently hear manufacturers say connect directly to the battery.
I have noticed this too, and many of the wires are already connected to each other. It's strange, but like you say: It's more than likely because of modern electronics. You'd think that a buss bar would be easier to install (and maintain), but for some reason they don't do it like that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by B52bombardier1 View Post
I'm running a battery with side and top posts on my 70 EC. Very handy for access to extra power.

No complaints. Be careful to not strip out the threads on the side posts. Lead is a soft metal.

Rick
Did you find one that fits the Chevelle tray?

Quote:
Originally Posted by hydro462 View Post
Go to your local electrical supply house and get a double or triple 100 amp service take off lug.. Take some cuts of wire in and show them what you want to connect..
I Googled this and came up with nothing. Is this like a post mounted bus bar?

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post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 8th, 20, 10:05 AM
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Re: Connecting several cables to battery terminals

I'm not running an original Chevelle or El Camino battery tray. I swapped in a tray from a GMC Sierra during my change to an LS engine.

But it should not be hard to find a suitable sized battery Take a few tray measurements and walk into an auto parts store for a comparative look.

Rick

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post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 8th, 20, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Connecting several cables to battery terminals

Quote:
Originally Posted by B52bombardier1 View Post
I'm not running an original Chevelle or El Camino battery tray. I swapped in a tray from a GMC Sierra during my change to an LS engine.

But it should not be hard to find a suitable sized battery Take a few tray measurements and walk into an auto parts store for a comparative look.

Rick

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I'll just take the whole car, so I can dry fit the battery.

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post #11 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 8th, 20, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Connecting several cables to battery terminals

This is how I have solved it for now, and it "kinda works". I'm planning to install a new 2 ga starter cable, but I really don't like the clamp installation on this type of terminal so I have been trying to find a terminal with three or four bolts, instead of two bolts and a clamp. I did find this, but I'm not sure if aluminum is the right material: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SAE-6-4-Spo...-/183721791949

BTW: It's funny how they call 6061 "electrical grade". For other car parts it's usually called "aircraft grade", for gun parts they call it "mil-spec" and so on. Whatever it takes to make it sound good, I guess. Or is there really a 6160 alloy variation that's made especially for electrical components?
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post #12 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 8th, 20, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Connecting several cables to battery terminals

Then there's the "Hydra", but it's very wide and bulky: https://www.homedepot.com/p/T-H-Mari...3-DP/311327930

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post #13 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 8th, 20, 1:51 PM
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Re: Connecting several cables to battery terminals

Maybe do a search for Car Audio Battery Terminals.

What you have to keep in mind is if you have a 10 gauge off of the battery post for let's say the fuel injection, then there needs to be a fuse on that wire close to the battery. If you then have another 10 gauge going to let's say a cooling fan, then this wire too also needs a fuse on it. If you have headlight relays then there will be a wire off of the battery for it and it too would need a fuse on that wire.

Maybe lay out what you all might be needing to connect to the battery and then layout for some future upgrades and then run a short feed wire off of the battery to a fused distribution block.

The reason companies tell you to go directly to the battery is to limit voltage drops. If you were to tap into an existing wire somewhere on the car and it's already stressed and then add in something like the fuel injection, then the power might be reduced and the circuit overloaded. I know years ago when I was trained by the factory on Clifford Alarm systems, they too wanted one to make the main power and ground connections at the battery and I had a car he looked and and asked why I wired up to the starter solenoid on the fender (a Ford factory setup) and then where the ground wire from the battery connected to the fender and my response was I was worried about corrosion on the posts and this was as close as I could get with VERY minimal voltage drops and would not have to worry about corroded terminals affecting things. He aggreed and passed me for my installation certification.

Jim
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post #14 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 8th, 20, 2:56 PM
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Re: Connecting several cables to battery terminals

Quote:
Originally Posted by Olle View Post
This is how I have solved it for now, and it "kinda works". I'm planning to install a new 2 ga starter cable, but I really don't like the clamp installation on this type of terminal so I have been trying to find a terminal with three or four bolts, instead of two bolts and a clamp. I did find this, but I'm not sure if aluminum is the right material: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SAE-6-4-Spo...-/183721791949

BTW: It's funny how they call 6061 "electrical grade". For other car parts it's usually called "aircraft grade", for gun parts they call it "mil-spec" and so on. Whatever it takes to make it sound good, I guess. Or is there really a 6160 alloy variation that's made especially for electrical components?
Take a look at these folks:

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/2-g...les-2-awg.html

They will make up what you specify; color, gauge, length, connectors, aux wires (gauge, color, connectors, number).

For special orders you likely need to talk to them. They do quality work at a very good price.

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post #15 of 39 (permalink) Old Jul 8th, 20, 7:16 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Connecting several cables to battery terminals

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Streib View Post
Maybe do a search for Car Audio Battery Terminals.

What you have to keep in mind is if you have a 10 gauge off of the battery post for let's say the fuel injection, then there needs to be a fuse on that wire close to the battery. If you then have another 10 gauge going to let's say a cooling fan, then this wire too also needs a fuse on it. If you have headlight relays then there will be a wire off of the battery for it and it too would need a fuse on that wire.

Maybe lay out what you all might be needing to connect to the battery and then layout for some future upgrades and then run a short feed wire off of the battery to a fused distribution block.

The reason companies tell you to go directly to the battery is to limit voltage drops. If you were to tap into an existing wire somewhere on the car and it's already stressed and then add in something like the fuel injection, then the power might be reduced and the circuit overloaded. I know years ago when I was trained by the factory on Clifford Alarm systems, they too wanted one to make the main power and ground connections at the battery and I had a car he looked and and asked why I wired up to the starter solenoid on the fender (a Ford factory setup) and then where the ground wire from the battery connected to the fender and my response was I was worried about corrosion on the posts and this was as close as I could get with VERY minimal voltage drops and would not have to worry about corroded terminals affecting things. He aggreed and passed me for my installation certification.

Jim
I saw something similar used for a stereo installation, so I have searched for "audio", "multiple", "multi" etc. The best one I have found so far is the Hydra, and I might get a set of those. I was hoping for something smaller though, basically something like a standard, "parts store" terminal with three bolts. Or maybe a crimp-on terminal with a few accessory bolts.

One thing I don't like about the EFI harness is exactly what you say: The fuse should be close to the battery, but the harness has a 30 A fuse holder on the engine end of a 12 ga feed wire. If voltage drop is the only issue, I think I can rearrange the EFI harness a bit and actually get less drop. I installed a fuse block on the firewall not too long ago, fed by a 6 ga cable and protected by an 80 A fuse right behind the battery. If I hook up the EFI feed to the fuse block, I should actually get voltage drop than running the 12 ga wire all the way to the battery. This would also eliminate the unprotected 12 ga wire, so it should be a win-win.

I'm going to install a new engine/transmission, fuel pump and a few other upgrades within the next couple of weeks, so for now I'll probably improvise the battery connections somehow. Once everything is up and running, I can start rewiring everything to go through the fuse block. I think it would be unwise to dig too deep into the wiring changes before I know that everything works.

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