Upgrade Alternator Question-67 - Chevelle Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems.

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post #1 of 36 (permalink) Old Feb 13th, 20, 1:01 PM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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Upgrade Alternator Question-67

My car was an 283/powerglide car,62K survivor.
Ive since then changed the motor/trans to a 468 and a TH400.
Ive also added HEI,and most recently Sniper.
Im experiencing no current problems Im aware of,except for what might be an overcharging issue,which might be the voltage regulator.(My sniper handheld told me).
So,I have to do a final check on that when the weathers nice.
But,if I wind up having to replace the voltage regulator,Im thinking of just changing the car over to an internal ,and switching the wires for that.

Car is all stock wiring still,looks to be in good shape(Im not quite ready to do the upgrade wiring harness yet)
I like the powermaster chromed alternators,and have one in my 454 72 camaro with no issues.

My question is,would it hurt to go with a 150 amp alternator?Or would it be better to run a 100amp?

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post #2 of 36 (permalink) Old Feb 13th, 20, 1:39 PM
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Gene
 
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Re: Upgrade Alternator Question-67

Certainly not, but the new VR will be digital , not mechanical. Mines been there for 18 years, and it JUST pooched. ended up with the non HD one this time from Napa, popped my mint DELCO REMY cover on it, and it'll be good for another 18. Plus new AAW harness, so the one wire wasnt wanted. But no issue with one that i know of.

Super surprised the L88 didnt pooch the alternator, as it saw 7500 engine rpms, but on a larger Z28 pulley. Putting that larger pulley on s a good idea, imho. Shown below.
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post #3 of 36 (permalink) Old Feb 13th, 20, 2:57 PM
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Re: Upgrade Alternator Question-67

100 or 150 amp would only be up to you with future electrical upgrades in mind. The wiring will need to be rated to handle which ever you choose. Don't put a 100 amp alternator on stock wiring.
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post #4 of 36 (permalink) Old Feb 13th, 20, 4:57 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Upgrade Alternator Question-67

Quote:
Originally Posted by 69SS454 View Post
100 or 150 amp would only be up to you with future electrical upgrades in mind. The wiring will need to be rated to handle which ever you choose. Don't put a 100 amp alternator on stock wiring.
Ok,that makes my decision for me about the upgrade,lol.
I'll just get a new external regulator,if it turns out to be overcharging.
One more question.
I see there are two available,a 42,and a 62 amp.
IDK which one I currently have,but I assume it would be the same wiring for one or the other,correct?I would assume Id be better with the 62 amp,since I have a few added electrical things now.

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post #5 of 36 (permalink) Old Feb 13th, 20, 5:05 PM
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Re: Upgrade Alternator Question-67

unless your car had AC from new it would have came stock with a 37 Amp unit. TI cars got a 42 amp and AC cars got 62. why not fix whats broken and move on without creating more problems
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post #6 of 36 (permalink) Old Feb 13th, 20, 5:10 PM
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Re: Upgrade Alternator Question-67

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Originally Posted by 72LS3Z27 View Post
Ok,that makes my decision for me about the upgrade,lol.
I'll just get a new external regulator,if it turns out to be overcharging.
One more question.
I see there are two available,a 42,and a 62 amp.
IDK which one I currently have,but I assume it would be the same wiring for one or the other,correct?I would assume Id be better with the 62 amp,since I have a few added electrical things now.
Yes its plug and play. The only obvious thing is the pulley is a little bigger. Also as previously mentioned go with the solid state look a like regulator... Some things today are just better..
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post #7 of 36 (permalink) Old Feb 13th, 20, 5:38 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Upgrade Alternator Question-67

Quote:
Originally Posted by Billdini View Post
Yes its plug and play. The only obvious thing is the pulley is a little bigger. Also as previously mentioned go with the solid state look a like regulator... Some things today are just better..
Thanks.

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post #8 of 36 (permalink) Old Feb 13th, 20, 5:39 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Upgrade Alternator Question-67

Quote:
Originally Posted by keithb View Post
unless your car had AC from new it would have came stock with a 37 Amp unit. TI cars got a 42 amp and AC cars got 62. why not fix whats broken and move on without creating more problems
Was thinking since I had added the other electrical components,it would be a help,and not a problem.Its why I asked.

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post #9 of 36 (permalink) Old Feb 13th, 20, 5:54 PM
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Keith
 
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Re: Upgrade Alternator Question-67

You could always pull the cover off the VR and file the points and see if your problem goes away

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post #10 of 36 (permalink) Old Feb 13th, 20, 11:35 PM
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Re: Upgrade Alternator Question-67

Here's how I look at things when one thinks an alternator upgrade is needed.

First, make sure the battery is charged and then hook up a voltmeter to where you can during a nice long drive, monitor the vehicles voltage level.

During your drive, turn on everything such as the AC with the blower on high, stereo cranked up, headlights on high beams, and after a few miles, note what the battery voltage is at your normal driving speed. Now drive the car like you normally do and after let's say 30, 40, or more miles at the normal driving speed once again, see how the voltage is.

If it's the same, then the alternator is keeping up with the current/amperage demands but if the voltage is lower, then the alternator is not keeping up and since the battery stores juice and does not create it then to me this means one needs an alternator upgrade.

What I have said is not super specific in some ways but if you have a 100A draw and the alternator can only output 75A, then the remaining 25A amps comes out of the battery and since the battery is for storage, it can only keep or help the voltage stay up for so long before it starts getting depleted of power.

On the other way, if you have a 100A draw and a 200A alternator the regulator only allows. or should, limit the output to 100A. If one does go above the highest original rated output alternator then other wiring upgrades are required.

I have seen plug adaptors to convert the external regulator and alternator to an internally regulated one and this keeps one from doing any wiring cutting.


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post #11 of 36 (permalink) Old Feb 14th, 20, 7:59 AM
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Re: Upgrade Alternator Question-67

Many say the 10DN alternator is one of the best charging systems used. I've read that having the voltage regulator separate and on the cars body really keeps charging correct..
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post #12 of 36 (permalink) Old Feb 14th, 20, 9:02 AM
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Re: Upgrade Alternator Question-67

PS Chris, the NAPA ( actually Carquest) VR that popped was the HD 62, but I replaced it with the lower non-HD one this time. I dont really know if there's any diff. the 62 ran fine for 18 years. I never did hook any additional stuff to the system, other than gauges.

Its like $25, a cheap and easy fix.

I like Jim's diagnostic procedure to weigh whether a future upgrade is required.
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post #13 of 36 (permalink) Old Feb 14th, 20, 9:57 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Upgrade Alternator Question-67

I was thinking about getting the standard products one.Rockauto has them for a decent price,and Ive used standards products on this car before.

Thanks guys,weather cleared up here today,but its cold,lol.Im hoping to get to it today and see.
Im still cleaning up the smalls from the Sniper install.

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post #14 of 36 (permalink) Old Feb 14th, 20, 8:09 PM
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Re: Upgrade Alternator Question-67

Solid state regulator for remote alternator is Wells VR715, fully electronic, NOT old style point type, and the old cover will interchange. This will change the older system over from a solenoid regulator to electronic capture and hold, just like the later 3 wire alternators are.

If you go to an internally regulated 12SI type, it is easy to do it either way, 3 wire or single wire. On both designs, the old large charge cable from the BATT goes on in the same place. The single wire then uses a 14 gauge jumber from side terminal number 2, to BATT cable lug on alternator. 3 wire uses a longer 14 gauge wire from terminal number 2, back a ways and splices into the large BATT cable back in the loom 8 or so inches, done.

For a single, or 3 wire, the charge light wire from the old remote regulator attaches to terminal number 1 on the new type alternator, charge light functions like it did with the remote regulator.
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post #15 of 36 (permalink) Old Feb 15th, 20, 10:14 AM
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Re: Upgrade Alternator Question-67

Dave there is nothing wrong with the old point style VR they work just fine.
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