Mad Electrical Part 2 - Chevelle Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems.

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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 20, 7:39 PM Thread Starter
blm
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Brad
 
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Smile Mad Electrical Part 2

Had another thread a little while back about the Mad Electrical Kit. Moving closer to installing and have a few things to figure out.
Going to install the whole kit, which is starting system, headlight relays and terminal blocks. For those that have done so still have a few questions.
1. As far as placing the parts of the starting system and terminal blocks. Anyone take any measures to conceal these components? Not that my underhood is bone stock but I try to take measures to keep it closer to stock than not. Think Mark even mentions mounting the terminal blocks in the inner fender if appearance is an issue. If so any pics would be appreciated.
2. With the starter system wiring I understand it can be wired with a remote solenoid or without. As far as I can tell even if a remote solenoid is used a relay is recommended for the solenoid on the starter. A disadvantage of not using a remote solenoid is that the cable from the battery to the starter has to be constant hot. Mark seemed to think that was a fairly big issue. Anyone skipped the remote solenoid?
3. If you did take measures to conceal the kit did you worry about the junction block and relays which are recommended to be installed up front for the headlights? Seems as those wouldnt be as noticable on the core support.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 20, 9:59 PM
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Re: Mad Electrical Part 2

I've done headlamp relays on several classic, and put them on a bracket fabbed out of aluminum behind the washer jug on the left fender.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 20, 11:11 PM
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Re: Mad Electrical Part 2

Mr. Dave, That I where I mounted all my wiring, Behind the jug area. I mounted my two relays on the core support. Standing near the D. Side hood hinge & looking towards the core support. You can just see the two little relays.
Bob


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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 20, 12:45 PM
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Re: Mad Electrical Part 2

The same as above. Two Bosch relays mounted behind the washer jug using the jug mounting screws. The only thing you can see is the circuit breaker mounted next to the horn relay. I also installed new wiring and terminals to the headlights.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 20, 5:44 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Mad Electrical Part 2

Thanks for the idea guys. Maybe this is same thing. Going to make a bracket/ flat piece of aluminum that is held to the rear of the washer jug bracket via the washer bracket screws. Going to size it about the same as jug bracket frame and paint it black. So in other words if the washer bracket and jug were mounted to the fender and one removed the jug they would see a flat piece of aluminum and when the jug is in place it would be difficult to see the added aluminum. Calculated the added aluminum will be big enough to hold two relays and a terminal block. They will be mounted facing outboard.
Then I came up with a good spot for the remote (Ford) solenoid. Going to mount under the battery tray and on the inner fender. That way the positive battery cable with follow its natural route till it goes out of sight and the solenoid wont be seen.
Just need to find a spot for the primary terminal block. It needs to be on the firewall or somewhere near by. Thinking possibly behind the brake booster???
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 20, 7:52 PM
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Re: Mad Electrical Part 2

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Originally Posted by blm View Post
Thanks for the idea guys. Maybe this is same thing. Going to make a bracket/ flat piece of aluminum that is held to the rear of the washer jug bracket via the washer bracket screws. Going to size it about the same as jug bracket frame and paint it black. So in other words if the washer bracket and jug were mounted to the fender and one removed the jug they would see a flat piece of aluminum and when the jug is in place it would be difficult to see the added aluminum. Calculated the added aluminum will be big enough to hold two relays and a terminal block. They will be mounted facing outboard.
Then I came up with a good spot for the remote (Ford) solenoid. Going to mount under the battery tray and on the inner fender. That way the positive battery cable with follow its natural route till it goes out of sight and the solenoid wont be seen.
Just need to find a spot for the primary terminal block. It needs to be on the firewall or somewhere near by. Thinking possibly behind the brake booster???
I have the Mad Electrical kit, but so far, I've only mounted the solenoid and a junction block. Electrical isn't really something I'm real good at, but I mounted the solenoid in clear sight on the passenger side inner fender well, not too far from the battery, and a junction block on the drivers side of the firewall.

I guess I kinda see it as a trade-off. It looks really nice when you have everything hidden and mounted out of sight, but on the other hand when you have to work on something that you placed out of sight, it can be a real PITA. Especially if you don't have a lift in your garage. I also took his advice given on his website to avoid the one-wire alternators, and use a three-wire 94 amp one from a parts store for a 1984 Camaro with the 305 H.O. motor. BTW what do you guys think about the MAD electrical owner's insistence to use fusible links throughout the part of the electrical system that's in the engine bay? Do they still use fusible links in modern cars? I hope this isn't a dumb question. I'm not great with electrical.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 20, 8:27 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Mad Electrical Part 2

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyGman View Post
BTW what do you guys think about the MAD electrical owner's insistence to use fusible links throughout the part of the electrical system that's in the engine bay? Do they still use fusible links in modern cars? I hope this isn't a dumb question. I'm not great with electrical.
I also have an AAW classic update kit installed on my 69. They use a couple fuseable links. One for the main power feed to the alternator and another on the main feed to the fuse box or basically rest of the car. Not sure if they still use them in newer cars buy they are a protective device so they may or something similar.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old Feb 15th, 20, 11:28 AM
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Re: Mad Electrical Part 2

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyGman View Post
Do they still use fusible links in modern cars? I hope this isn't a dumb question. I'm not great with electrical.
I don't see any on my chevy trucks, but the main 12V lead from the battery to the underhood fuse center has a large buss fuse on the main lead. Same function, but it's easily replaceable vs. having to solder/crimp a new FL in place.

As far as the guy's insistence on using FLs.... either use them or use conventional fuses. I suspect an FL is a bit more forgiving on changing loads than a conventional fuse would be.

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old Feb 15th, 20, 9:32 PM
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Re: Mad Electrical Part 2

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyGman View Post
BTW what do you guys think about the MAD electrical owner's insistence to use fusible links throughout the part of the electrical system that's in the engine bay? Do they still use fusible links in modern cars? I hope this isn't a dumb question. I'm not great with electrical.
]

He's spot on. Fusible links will survive where fuses won't. They allow temporary spikes in current where a fuse will blow almost instantly and cause more nuisance trips. You don't want nuisance trips on an alternator charging or battery charging circuit because you'll end up with nuisance alternator repairs if the alt becomes disconnected from the battery.

Fuses also deteriorate in high current use. An application like high start up amperage of fans will hit the fuse with a high amperage startup current. This current may not initially blow the fuse, but as the fuse sees many cycles it will eventually weaken and blow. We see this in the electric cooling fan systems here. A guy will have to replace the fuse every so often. Not that big of a deal with cooling fans, but if your alt charge wire disconnects you'll possibly damage the regulator or alt.

There is a fuse known as the MIDI fuse that works like a fusible link. It's a slow blow fuse and is used in many new car and heavy equipment applications. Just like a fusible link, if it burns out you just saved your car from burning to the ground or serious electrical damage. Various boxes are available to mount Midi fuses. I don't think they were considered by MAD as the MAD write-ups are fairly dated.

https://www.littelfuse.com/products/...fuses/498.aspx

https://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/a..._datasheet.pdf
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old Feb 16th, 20, 8:28 AM
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Re: Mad Electrical Part 2

Quote:
Originally Posted by DUTCH MAX HEADWORK View Post
]

He's spot on. Fusible links will survive where fuses won't. They allow temporary spikes in current where a fuse will blow almost instantly and cause more nuisance trips. You don't want nuisance trips on an alternator charging or battery charging circuit because you'll end up with nuisance alternator repairs if the alt becomes disconnected from the battery.

Fuses also deteriorate in high current use. An application like high start up amperage of fans will hit the fuse with a high amperage startup current. This current may not initially blow the fuse, but as the fuse sees many cycles it will eventually weaken and blow. We see this in the electric cooling fan systems here. A guy will have to replace the fuse every so often. Not that big of a deal with cooling fans, but if your alt charge wire disconnects you'll possibly damage the regulator or alt.

There is a fuse known as the MIDI fuse that works like a fusible link. It's a slow blow fuse and is used in many new car and heavy equipment applications. Just like a fusible link, if it burns out you just saved your car from burning to the ground or serious electrical damage. Various boxes are available to mount Midi fuses. I don't think they were considered by MAD as the MAD write-ups are fairly dated.

https://www.littelfuse.com/products/...fuses/498.aspx

https://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/a..._datasheet.pdf
Thank you. Sorry for the novice question, but if I'm using a 94 amp alternator, would I need a 100 amp midi fuse, or a 125 amp one? I'm guessing that 125 amp would be better.

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 20, 8:53 AM
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Re: Mad Electrical Part 2

Terminal block mounted behind the brake booster. Pretty sure I mounted the block before the booster.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 20, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Mad Electrical Part 2

John, thanks for the pic. That is the location I was thinking of, but maybe even a little lower. Right now I have the engine and trans out of my car (with car on kiwi lift) so I can stand in engine bay and install most of the Mad Electrical kit.
Below are pics of the washer jug bracket, then bracket with the aluminum bracket I made for another terminal block and two headlight relays, then finally the brackets with the jug installed. Donít think those items will be seen. Maybe just some wires from that area.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 20, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Mad Electrical Part 2

Try again
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 20, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Mad Electrical Part 2

Ok I think I learned something about posting pics. The upside down pics were taken with cell phone and the camera button was on the left of the screen. The second pics were with the phone turned 180 degrees ( from 1st pics) and camera button was on right hand side. I guess the phone is smart enough to display them right side up but when transferred they are seen upside down. After all its a smart phone right. Think its just the operator that is dumb.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old Feb 18th, 20, 11:25 AM
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Re: Mad Electrical Part 2

I mounted my relays between the driver side headlamps. Didnít really want to hide them (service item). I hid most everything else.
Also put a junction block down by the relays. Pic was taken while I was still wiring.
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