I would document as much as you can to where if another wants to do it some pictures may help. Just put it somewhere to where later the pictures are not blurred out like what some storage sites are doing.
Maybe too, take some voltage measurements at different points before you move the battery and then later.
However you do it make it safe such as protecting the cabling with things such as proper routing and installation as well as properly placed fuses or circuit breakers. If the battery is in an enclosed space have it vented to the exterior of the vehicle.
yes sir. This is why it is taking longer.....Im doing it right at least thats what Im trying to convince myself of. LOL
1.) correct sized positive
2.) correct and multiple grounds from body to frame and frame to starter
3.) correct terminations
4.) correct high quality disconnect in the negative side. I'm not racing this so Im only isolating the batt circuit at this point so I can safely work on the car when needed and also as act as a theft deterrent.
5.) correct and safely mounted battery.
6.) protective batt cable sheathing
Im running it through the inner bed wall into the cab, exiting below the rear kick panel, along the floor under the carpet to the front firewall. Then using an MOROSO batt cable insulator pass through the front firewall. Then along the inner frame rail to the starter lug. Ill be using heat protective covering since the headers are right there.
Next step is an aeromotive OEM style tank kit with a 400 LPH pump and Ill be using 1/2 in teflon fuel line run in factory location using the 3/8 factory fuel line as the return.
After that comes FI. Either eddy proflow 4 or fitech, maybe sniper but not sure as Im researching what kit works best for 800-900 forced induction HP at the crank which is my goal.