Removing Pertonix going back to points - Chevelle Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems.

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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old May 19th, 19, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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Rob
 
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Question Removing Pertonix going back to points

Basic question but only want to do this once. My Pertonix II has gone bad. Lucky to get home. Iím going back to contact points.simple, easy, reliable and an easy fix on the road. Iíve got all standard ignition parts including a new coil. I have the resistor wire in the harness. Do I also need a ballast resistor? Itís been so long I canít remember if I had one or not?
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old May 19th, 19, 2:33 PM
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Re: Removing Pertonix going back to points

Your resistor wire is sufficient, with it in place and operational, NO outside resistor is needed. If you measure the wire from the bulkhead connector to the coil terminal end, it should be 1.80 ohms resistance. This is the same value the porcelain resistors have. If your vehicle uses a 12 volt bypass from the starter solenoid to the coil +, make sure it is in place and operational. Some cars use one, some others, this wire comes out of the ignition switch.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old May 19th, 19, 2:44 PM
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Re: Removing Pertonix going back to points

You should have about 9 volts out of the resistance wire with the ignition in the on position. No ballast resistor required.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old May 19th, 19, 7:00 PM
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Bruce
 
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Re: Removing Pertonix going back to points

Why step back into the '60's? I run a FAST XR-i Points to Electronic Conversion and have never had any issues with it. It works great. In fact it's so old I bought it before FAST bought the line from Crane Cams.

https://www.jegs.com/i/FAST/244/750-1710/10002/-1
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old May 19th, 19, 8:09 PM
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jerry
 
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Re: Removing Pertonix going back to points

I'm going points in my '69, easy peasy....and oem.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old May 20th, 19, 8:35 AM
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Re: Removing Pertonix going back to points

Smart move. I've never had an issue with breaker points leaving me stuck on the side of the road. I DID have a pertronix die on me once. Never again.

A OEM HEI module or stock breaker points are the only way to go for reliability, IMO. Seems like all the breaker point conversions have issues. Besides, they really don't do anything to improve performance anyway.

The stock resistor wire is all you need. No additional ballast.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old May 20th, 19, 8:52 AM
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Re: Removing Pertonix going back to points

Quote:
Originally Posted by novadude View Post
Smart move. I've never had an issue with breaker points leaving me stuck on the side of the road. I DID have a pertronix die on me once. Never again.

A OEM HEI module or stock breaker points are the only way to go for reliability, IMO. Seems like all the breaker point conversions have issues. Besides, they really don't do anything to improve performance anyway.

The stock resistor wire is all you need. No additional ballast.
HA! The HEI in my truck has left me abandon more times than I can count. Easy quick fix and I always carry a spare module with me, but reliable wouldn't be a word I use.

Regarding the OPs Pertronix. You stated you have a resistor wire, did you have that connected to the Pertronix? That may be why your Pertronix failed, I believe their instructions say to NOT connect it to a resistor wire, that it needs a full 12v to work properly. Maybe Ignitor II is different. I have an Ignitor I and an Ignitor III.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old May 20th, 19, 9:02 AM Thread Starter
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Rob
 
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Re: Removing Pertonix going back to points

Thank you all for the reply. I do have the two wires coming to the positive coil crimped together. The resistor wire and the yellow wire from the starter. I plan on taking some longer trips in the car and with this going out so suddenly, with apparently no extra performance enhancement, with ease of fixing, I figured Iíd go back. I havenít checked the voltage or resistance yet but will this coming long weekend and wrap it up.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old May 20th, 19, 9:41 AM
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Re: Removing Pertonix going back to points

I have Pertronix Ignitor I in my coupe and it has never given me problems. I carry a set of points in the car in case the Pertronix quits, but I've never needed them. I put the Crane XRi (or whatever it's called) in the old GTO and it too works very well and I like the built in rev limiter (really needed on those old Pontiac 389s).
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old May 21st, 19, 8:37 AM
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Re: Removing Pertonix going back to points

I can't honestly blame you for considering to go back to points BUT! I am sure if you followed my issues with Pertronix and my tachometer issue you can see why I say I wouldn't blame you. I can certainly tell you that points left me on the side of the road, required constant adjustment and spark blow out with any engine having decent compression especially with the gas we run in our tanks these days. I have run all 3 Pertronix versions I,II and III and only had an issue with the III. Biggest issue with the I series was if the ignition was left on for a few minutes it would kill it because of heat although having installed at least 10 in cars I never had an issue. I went with the III with my L79 but had tach issues (also with II) and ended up converting the tach to digital at Redline Gauges.. The III also had a misfire issue. All versions are available with the LS series (LOBE Sensor) and in my opinion are far superior to that stupid magnetic collar under the rotor since it works off the distributor cam lobes. Many failures have been caused by a magnet falling out of that collar. I have the LS series II in my L79 now using 12 volts and it runs great. It also has the over heat fix if you happen to leave the ignition on. Personally I would exhaust all means not to go back to points as I certainly had issues with that old technology.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old May 21st, 19, 9:13 AM
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Re: Removing Pertonix going back to points

Smart move..

Nothing at all wrong with the points up to 6000 rpm...

Just use the resister wire and call it a day.

Summit still sells Accell points and condensers, they have always ran perfectly for me..

With points, you get to run copper core wires that last forever, unlike the carbon core that need replaced every 3-5 years.. Heck, you could get a spool of lawn mower wire and solder new ends on them and be done with wires for the life time of the car..

I shim the adjuster spring with a washer or two. The points seem to hold the dwell longer doing this..

By the way, in 50+ years of cars, I have never had a electronic ignition fired motor start faster then a points fired motor. On some of my low compression, points cars, you barely hear the starter..
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old May 21st, 19, 9:52 PM
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Re: Removing Pertonix going back to points

One comment to throw in the ring:

It's getting pretty hard to get points at just about any auto place if you need them right now stranded on the side of the road. A new Pertronix module isn't any easier, being that it's aftermarket. But the notion that points can quickly be replaced is no longer a forgone conclusion if you need new ones. Heck the nearest store might even have them but the genius behind the counter may nor be able to locate them. (Be prepared to say something like "contact set".) If you need to carry a spare part anyway, a module needs no timing and dwell tools.

Same comment for the condenser, which I've seen a couple of times as the failure point instead of points. Especially if the condenser doesn't get change with new points, which is often the case. Both for the guy that needs the new condenser and the parts store that doesn't stock it.

IMO the electronic ignitions, whether HEI (which in the current era are having their own problems with questionable quality of replacement parts), aftermarket distributors, boxes or points replacement; should all be highly reliable compared to points. I've run the same Mallory distributor since 1989 with only basic tune up parts. But I also have a car that runs points, always will. And it's a six cylinder which makes finding what I need harder.

Zeke

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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 19, 8:00 AM
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Re: Removing Pertonix going back to points

You can get vintage, "made in the USA" Accell points on e-Bay.. I bought 20 sets one time for a few bucks. I bought them for my Pontiac 455 but thankfully they fit my 454...

That said, there was no performance increase going from the new Accell points to the NOS Accell points..
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 19, 11:06 AM
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Re: Removing Pertonix going back to points

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich-L79 View Post
HA! The HEI in my truck has left me abandon more times than I can count. Easy quick fix and I always carry a spare module with me, but reliable wouldn't be a word I use.
Really? I have never had issue with the old '990' genuine GM module from the 1970s. aftermarket parts store stuff these days is a crap shoot. The fact that I've pulled 30 yr old '990' modules from junkyard cars that test and work perfect says something about their reliability (at least IMO).
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 19, 6:40 PM
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Re: Removing Pertonix going back to points

Quote:
Originally Posted by novadude View Post
Really? I have never had issue with the old '990' genuine GM module from the 1970s. aftermarket parts store stuff these days is a crap shoot. The fact that I've pulled 30 yr old '990' modules from junkyard cars that test and work perfect says something about their reliability (at least IMO).
If I could find an old module for a reasonable price I'd be set. They are getting scarce and expensive. Should kind of tell you something when a 40-50 year old electronics part is sought out over brand new aftermarket parts.

As it stands I have a lifetime warranty one from O'Reilly's and keep a spare in the glovebox. I've swapped it out three times under warranty over the past 6-7 years.
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