Sanity Check - Electronic Ignition Power - Chevelle Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems.

 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 25th, 19, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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Matt
 
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Sanity Check - Electronic Ignition Power

Quick question - car's a '71 that came with points ignition. I'll be putting electronic in it (ala pertronix, not a full HEI cap/etc), so I'm replacing the wire from the block on the firewall to the coil+ with a non-resistor wire. When I do this, I can also remove the yellow wire that comes off the starter solenoid to coil+ (since it is just there to bypass the resistor wire when cranking) right?

Thanks!

(I'm also removing the TCS / CCS wiring from this harness; it is out of the car on the bench at the moment - no gotchas in that right? Looks straight forward to pare it out from the diagram in the service manual.)

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 25th, 19, 10:45 PM
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Re: Sanity Check - Electronic Ignition Power

JMHO, tape it back in the harness!

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 25th, 19, 10:55 PM
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Eric
 
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Re: Sanity Check - Electronic Ignition Power

You need to change the coil if your doing away with the resistance wire as per the instructions.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 25th, 19, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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Matt
 
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Re: Sanity Check - Electronic Ignition Power

Quote:
Originally Posted by LeoP View Post
JMHO, tape it back in the harness!
I'll have the harness apart anyways (cleaning out the TCS/CCS stuff from when it was a powerglide/2bbl) so I'll remove it all-together, and replace the coil feed with a wire taped back up in the harness

Sometimes doing things the hard way is more fun (and isn't that what this is all about?)

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldcutlass View Post
You need to change the coil if your doing away with the resistance wire as per the instructions.
It will be the appropriate coil to match the ignition module, no worries (I've seen what happens when people run non-resistor coils without ballast!)

Industrial controls engineer by day, mechanic by night, a few screws loose 24/7

'71 4-Door Malibu
My old daily, a project to be a driver again
Previously: 307 / Powerglide
Current: 307 / Muncie M20
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 19, 5:50 AM
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Jeff
 
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Re: Sanity Check - Electronic Ignition Power

I leave the points in. Nothing wrong with them...
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 19, 9:42 AM
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Re: Sanity Check - Electronic Ignition Power

I've been reading many posts about conversions from points to electronics ignition, all of them with problems. Seems the average guy wanting to eliminate points in favor of a 'trouble free' system creates more problems than he eliminates. OK GM uses electronics ignitions and has for years, but our cars were designed with a points system to include some method of reduced voltage via a ballast or wire type of resistor. Original systems used a set of contacts in the starter to deliver full voltage to the coil during starting but use a lower voltage when running.

I have installed several aftermarket electronic ignition systems in 1960 vintage cars with mixed results. The instructions were piss poor at best as to whether full 12 volts was needed at the coil or a reduced value was needed. Some of these systems have an external 'box' requiring additional wiring. Then some of these aftermarket manufactures have gone off shore with their manufacturing and use the lowest price components.

My local hi-performance shop does distributor work and has a box full of point-less electronics failed components, all from guys like us wanting something different than standard points and all are apparently garbage. As was mentioned above, leave your stock ignition system in place and be happy. Just saying... Al
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 19, 10:03 AM
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Re: Sanity Check - Electronic Ignition Power

On the other hand, it won't hurt anything to leave the bypass wire connected to the coil, it might give a little voltage boost during cranking.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 19, 11:06 AM
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Re: Sanity Check - Electronic Ignition Power

Let's not confuse two very different issues here:

1) The original, decades old idea of swapping out Points for an HEI type ignition......using QUALITY parts made in the States or Canada.

When you could get NOS or OEM parts from GM and others, this was almost a no brainer. Very high success rate, better ignition set up, and no points to worry about. Ever.

vs.

2) Having to deal with today's substandard Chinesium HEI parts.

Now, in retrospect, multiple spark discharge was largely b.s. and those boxes didn't do much, other than function as a rev limiter.

But thanks to Holley, MSD, Mallory, etc. offshoring (and in some cases, being controlled by the same, soul-less private equity firm)....we now have poor quality, Mandarin made, HEI parts to pick from when doing the conversion.

Booo........

'69 Malibu 383/TCI TH350/8.2 3.36 Eaton Posi. Street Edge 10" 2800, E-Tec 170s, Custom Mike Jones HR Cam, RPM Air-Gap, StreetAvenger 770, Pertronix HEI, Hedman 1 5/8" Headers, Moser Axles, PMT 1320R Kit. [email protected] 111 MPH, 1.6865 60 ft, Nitto 555
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 19, 4:50 PM
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Re: Sanity Check - Electronic Ignition Power

From a person that fixes all sorts of ignition problems and issues, day in and day out, ME, ALL PerTronix need a ballast resistor, no matter the coil used.

Now, to power up a full volts ignition system, of which, HEI is the only one that ISN'T a CD, take the two wires off the coil, tape them up, and tape them to the wiring loom over the engine, let them stay in place if you ever need them to replace the blown up Ignitors.

Then, check the IGN or IGNITION terminal on the fuse box, to ground, should only be 'hot' in ignition switch positions start and run. Then, 14 gauge wire through the firewall in a place that won't hurt the wire, directly to the positive post on the new coil, done, finished, changeable back to a resisted system easily, with NO adverse issues.

NO need to reinvent the wheel here, just simple work.
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