Testing the clock - Chevelle Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems.

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 18, 9:57 AM Thread Starter
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Lou
 
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Testing the clock

Hi,

Is it safe to test my clock using a 12 volt battery charger with 6 amps ?


Lou
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 18, 10:11 AM
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Re: Testing the clock

yes
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 18, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Testing the clock

Quote:
Originally Posted by 69SS454 View Post
yes
Thanks, doesn't work. No surprise on that one. Now to try and fix it.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 18, 1:20 PM
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Re: Testing the clock

Double check with a volt meter that you are getting 12V and ground to the clock.

I have seen some chargers that have no output to charge a dead battery but they work if the battery has at least 8 volts or so in it.

Maybe try the two connections off of the clock on a charged up car battery and see what happens just to verify things.

I would hate to go through figuring out why something didn't work only to find out it was something goofy from a prior test that wasn't right.

Jim
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 18, 1:45 PM
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Re: Testing the clock

I've used a 12V cordless drill battery to test automotive parts (headlights and radio's) before so if you have an old cordless drill around that might work too.
The clock has a set of points that sometimes fuse together stopping the clock from working.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 18, 2:57 PM
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Re: Testing the clock

Just a heads up, but 12 volt battery chargers can put out lots more than 12 volts when they are not regulated or attached to a battery. Never test headlight bulbs or radios with a battery charger unless you want to smoke them.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 12th, 18, 1:45 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Testing the clock

Okay, here's the latest I've found out. There's some older threads on these clocks that I found. There is a Quartz conversion you can buy but their for the Borg clocks. Mines a Westclox.

I cleaned the points and lifted the pawl until they made contact. When I put the juice to it the contacts popped open. Not sure if that's what it's supposed to do but when it did the oscillating wheel came loose. Have no idea how to re-install it or if it will work when re-installed. Might be able to cannabalize another clock.

Would anyone happen to know if the electrical aspect of the clock works based on the points behavior and is the problem with the wheel ?

Not sure if the watch repair people I was going over to see can do a quartz conversion or fix that wheel. Will keep you posted.

Thanks
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 12th, 18, 1:58 PM
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Re: Testing the clock

They are wind up clocks.
When the points make contact, it winds the clock and the points open, as it runs down, the points close again and repeats the process.

They never were much good when new and most didn't last long.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 13th, 18, 2:56 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Testing the clock

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Originally Posted by Dean View Post
They are wind up clocks.
When the points make contact, it winds the clock and the points open, as it runs down, the points close again and repeats the process.

They never were much good when new and most didn't last long.
I do not recall riding in any car that had a clock that actually worked back in the day. At least none of those electro mechanical clocks.

I took it apart, almost had it going but kept fiddling with it until I broke the oscillating wheel spring and called it a day. Considered other options like cannibalizing another but after all that work who's to say once it's back in the dash the thing just stops. No thanks. With all the reasons for them to quit it just isn't worth the time and effort.

I'm sending it out for a quartz conversion to a company called Instrument Services in Illinois. I hope no one has had a bad experience with them. They seemed reasonably priced. Now for a quartz of beer.

See ya !
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 13th, 18, 3:30 PM
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Re: Testing the clock

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean View Post
They are wind up clocks.
When the points make contact, it winds the clock and the points open, as it runs down, the points close again and repeats the process.

They never were much good when new and most didn't last long.
Yep, a 9v battery will work for testing. A lot of times, cleaning the contact point will get them working. You actually have to diagnose 2 things after removing the back.
  1. If you wind it manually, does it tick, and keep time for a few minutes?
  2. If it runs until contacts close, and you apply power, will it "click" and wind it turn or so?
I remember trying to sleep in our 1975 Impala one night, and the "click" every couple minutes would turn into a "CLICK" after a couple hours.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 13th, 18, 3:38 PM
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Re: Testing the clock

Having it converted to quartz is the way to go.
I've cleaned and lube a few and got them working but they seem to always quit again

Years ago I bought a new NOS clock still in the GM box for my 69 but it only lasted a couple years or so. I gave up, disconnected the power from it and set it at 6:00
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 13th, 18, 4:11 PM
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Re: Testing the clock

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dean View Post
Having it converted to quartz is the way to go.
I've cleaned and lube a few and got them working but they seem to always quit again

Years ago I bought a new NOS clock still in the GM box for my 69 but it only lasted a couple years or so. I gave up, disconnected the power from it and set it at 6:00
Mine is set at 12:00, but after a couple years driving, it has advanced maybe 10 minutes. I still want to pull it out, I have a working spare from something GM, but I'm not taking the dash apart just for that.
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