Alternator trouble - Chevelle Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems.

 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 2nd, 18, 10:16 PM Thread Starter
Adam
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Barberton ohio
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Alternator trouble

Need some help. I have a 67 Buick gs340 I know it's not a chevelle but I need some help. I had the original 10dn alternator in it and my generator light was dim at idle. So I upgraded to a vr715 digital regulator. The gen light was on bright with this regulator. I check the battery voltage with my fluke meter and it showed 16.2 volts. So I pulled the alternator went to the parts store to have it tested. Alternator tested good. I swapped the regulator for another same problem. I put the old regulator back on same issue. I grabbed a regulator. From another car of mine same issue. So at this point I cleaned and checked all my grounds. I ran a separate ground from the reg to the alternator same issue. I checked continuity from brown wire at regulator to switch all good. In fact I have checked all wires and all check good. Now the weird part is the the gen light does not come on with key on engine off. The minute you start it gen light lights up bright. Battery shows 16.2 volts as does b+ post on the back of alternator. I decided it was time to do the cs130 alternator upgrade I had been wanting to do. I have the PLFS. Plug. Wired in. Gen light still on still 16.2 volts. Now though the gen light is dim with key on engine off. Any ideas
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 3rd, 18, 11:17 AM
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Re: Alternator trouble

It sounds like the maybe the voltage sense is not seeing what it should ?. My thinking is, maybe the voltage sense is getting a lower voltage than it should due to resistance and if it's at let's say 10V, now the regulator is trying to overcome this to where it's putting out 16.2V ?.

Can you provide a diagram of how the new alternator is wired ?. I'm thinking out loud here but you have had changes on some things but there are still wires being used from the car for signals and maybe something is wrong there ?.

Not that you have this problem but I put on a rebuilt alternator on my daily driver truck and right out of the box, the voltage was WAY too high. I never had it tested but returned it and got one from another place but I have heard too that sometimes people do test things and don't do things right and may tell you it's good but in reality, it's broke or out of spec.

Jim

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 3rd, 18, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
Adam
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Barberton ohio
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Thanks Jim I have the sense wire to the back of the battery stud then I have the L wire running to the blue wire that runs back to the voltage regulator plug. The the battery power comes from the horn relay through the main junction. I have the blue and brown wires jumped in the plug. The white and red wires are not jumped. Nothing is hooked to the P or F terminals Testing last night I have 16.?? Volts at the battery and at the main stud on the back of the alternator. If I check the L terminal I have 14.46. With it set up like this the gen light is on but dim with key in the run position. Then on bright with car running. If I un hook my jumper wire with key on engine off the gen light comes on bright like it shoud
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 3rd, 18, 12:49 PM
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Re: Alternator trouble

Quote:
Originally Posted by 67gs340 View Post
Thanks Jim I have the sense wire to the back of the battery stud then I have the L wire running to the blue wire that runs back to the voltage regulator plug. The the battery power comes from the horn relay through the main junction. I have the blue and brown wires jumped in the plug. The white and red wires are not jumped. Nothing is hooked to the P or F terminals Testing last night I have 16.?? Volts at the battery and at the main stud on the back of the alternator. If I check the L terminal I have 14.46. With it set up like this the gen light is on but dim with key in the run position. Then on bright with car running. If I un hook my jumper wire with key on engine off the gen light comes on bright like it shoud
Has the cs130 been tested by anyone ?. I'm wondering if the voltage regulator in it is fubar ?.

I'm wondering too if something screwy is going on with the circuit for the dash light. While I don't know how this would affect things, but is the dash bulb the proper size/wattage ?. In other words I don't know how this would affect things but if the bulb was to be a 194 (and I don't know exactly what you should have but this is an example as the 194 bulb is to be used in my 68 Chevy II Nova) is the specs on it show it as a 0.27A draw while a 1X (L-605) shows a 0.41A draw.

194 - T3 1/4 Bulbs

1X - T3 1/4 Bulbs

Jim

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 3rd, 18, 3:17 PM
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kevin
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Smiths Station, Alabama
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Re: Alternator trouble

this deal had me stumped several years ago on my 67 chevelle. turned out the power wire from the batter to the terminal block on the radiator support was shot and grounding itself. this wire (on the chevelle) runs right in front of the radiator yet is not visible. cost me about 90 bucks for an auto-electric shop to replace that one 12ga wire.....might not work for you but cheap to check anyway...
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Jul 5th, 18, 8:48 PM Thread Starter
Adam
 
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Thanks guys I have some checking to do I will update when i find the problem
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