No Interior Lights - Help Needed - Page 2 - Chevelle Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems.

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post #16 of 30 (permalink) Old May 24th, 18, 12:59 AM
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Re: No Interior Lights - Help Needed

The instrument cluster lights are fed from a jumper on the headlight switch. If the headlights come on, there is power.

This power flows through the rheostat then TO the fusebox through the very short "INST" fuse. (What M&H used for this fuse is unknown).

Then the power exits this fuse and the fuse block to feed the instrument cluster, heater control panel, radio and console lights.

You will NOT be able to accurately test voltage at this small fuse. Neither end of it is connected to + power. Remove it and use an ohm meter, self powered test light or fuse tester OUTSIDE of the fuse block.

If this fuse is good and your headlights work, the problem is probably the rheostat section of the headlight switch. It replaces as one part.

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post #17 of 30 (permalink) Old May 24th, 18, 1:52 AM
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Re: No Interior Lights - Help Needed

Quote:
Originally Posted by DUTCH MAX HEADWORK View Post
The white wire also supplies the ground to the instrument lights. Follow it on the wiring diagram in the above post.

I'm sure you have checked all fuses just to be sure.

All your problems, I think, can be caused by no ground to the headlight switch body.
I'm not sure how this ground circuit works in relation to the instrument lights. It doesn't make sense to me. Diagram shows the ground circuit for the door switches which supply ground when door is open to courtesy light. You turn the light switch and it supplies ground to the same circuit through the switch to the white wire which turns on your courtesy light. That part I understand.

What I don't get is that same white wire is hooked into the ground of the instrument lights. I give up for now...
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post #18 of 30 (permalink) Old May 24th, 18, 6:29 AM Thread Starter
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Re: No Interior Lights - Help Needed

Thanks for all the replies, guys. Much appreciated.

Paul, sorry I didn't respond to your question about the diagram.

I'll have to get a light switch ordered. I installed a new one when I did all the resto work, but I suppose anything can go bad. I've turned it on maybe 6 times in 9 years, so I guess I wore it out, lol...

I won't be able to work on it till the weekend, so i'll see if I can get a look at my grounds to start with.

I don't know if I'll be able to use NAPA up here for a light switch, we'll see. Their parts availability isn't as good as the US stores.

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post #19 of 30 (permalink) Old May 24th, 18, 6:44 AM Thread Starter
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Re: No Interior Lights - Help Needed

Found the switch at NAPA Canada. There are 2 to choose from. Is there any difference here besides the price:

https://www.napacanada.com/en/search...entForm-newveh

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post #20 of 30 (permalink) Old May 24th, 18, 7:18 AM
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Re: No Interior Lights - Help Needed

Both are 8 prong switches. Only difference appears to be supplier. One is NAPA other is ???
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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old May 24th, 18, 7:50 AM
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Re: No Interior Lights - Help Needed

See if you have voltage on both sides of the small fuse with the headlight switch on and the knob turned almost fully ccw. Its a very simple circuit, the green wire from the switch powers the fuse only when the headlight switch is pulled the gray feed wire runs from the fuse to the lights.

There is no magic ground off the headlight switch for the instrument lights. The ground coming off the switch is strictly for the courtesy light circuit and has nothing to do with the instrument lights.

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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old May 24th, 18, 9:26 AM
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Re: No Interior Lights - Help Needed

Yes, you can read voltage (with a DVM) at either side of the fuse IF the rheostat is good AND you have the lights on AND you have the rheostat set to call for lights.

BUT this read voltage will vary with rheostat rotation which can be really confusing. This is why it's best to test the fuse for continuity when removed from the fuse block.

Headlights off, no feed to headlights, bad rheostat or rheostat at lowest dimmer setting and the fuse, even if good, will show ZERO volts.

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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old May 24th, 18, 10:21 AM
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Re: No Interior Lights - Help Needed

Was it already mentioned that the little inst light fuse gets its power is from the taillight fuse so you will notice it when you have no taillights.?
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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old May 24th, 18, 10:26 AM
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Re: No Interior Lights - Help Needed

Nosir. It gets it's power from the headlight switch dimmer rheostat-which gets it's power from the headlight circuit.

The "power" through this fuse is the varying voltage from the dimmer rheostat.

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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old May 24th, 18, 10:35 AM
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Re: No Interior Lights - Help Needed

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Originally Posted by paul bell View Post
Nosir. It gets it's power from the headlight switch dimmer rheostat-which gets it's power from the headlight circuit.

The "power" through this fuse is the varying voltage from the dimmer rheostat.
Pull your taillight fuse and check the INST light fuse.
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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old May 24th, 18, 10:39 AM
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Re: No Interior Lights - Help Needed

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Was it already mentioned that the little inst light fuse gets its power is from the taillight fuse so you will notice it when you have no taillights.?

Actually Dean, this is partially true. The headlight switch gets its feed from what's marked on the fuse block as "tail" (which also feeds other things) so although the "inst" fuse is not connected to the tail fuse, the rheostat which feeds the "inst" fuse indirectly gets it's feed from the tail fuse.


Having said this, if the tail fuse was blown, the headlights won't work-as well as what looks to be the feed to the ignition switch.

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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old May 24th, 18, 10:45 AM
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Re: No Interior Lights - Help Needed

Quote:
Originally Posted by paul bell View Post
Actually Dean, this is partially true. The headlight switch gets its feed from what's marked on the fuse block as "tail" (which also feeds other things) so although the "inst" fuse is not connected to the tail fuse, the rheostat which feeds the "inst" fuse indirectly gets it's feed from the tail fuse.


Having said this, if the tail fuse was blown, the headlights won't work-as well as what looks to be the feed to the ignition switch.
If the taillight fuse is blown, the headlights still work but since that fuse feeds the power to the INST light fuse the taillights AND the INST lights won't work.
That is so you will notice it and check the taillights.
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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old May 24th, 18, 3:17 PM
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Re: No Interior Lights - Help Needed

Some of you guys appear to be very confused on how the headlamp switch works...or donít know know how to read schematics....


Although the pictures are messed up thanks to Photobucket, you can read what I typed about the circuit functionality of the switches here:

https://www.chevelles.com/forums/27-e...itch-info.html


The quick check if you have already gained access to the headlamp switch is pull the connector off. Take a jumper wire and short from the orange wire (tail power input feed) to the green wire (dash lamp output feed) and the dash lights should come on.
***Dan, The above is for a stock set-up. You will have to verify your aftermarket colors and functions if they are different.

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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old May 24th, 18, 5:02 PM Thread Starter
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Re: No Interior Lights - Help Needed

Joe, and everyone, thanks for all the replies. I won't get to do anything until likely Sunday or Monday. I'll post back after that.

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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old May 27th, 18, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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Re: No Interior Lights - Help Needed

Update: 27 May 2018

I checked downstairs with my spare parts from M&H ( that I've kept for 9 years ) and I have a full set of spare fuses that came with the harness, whew! ( Had to order more 4amp fuses online from Amazon, 4 different stores up here = no luck ).

After reading everything here, I used my multimeter to check the new fuse ( read 0.0 ) and then the old one. The old fuse wouldn't get the meter out of the overload reading ( 0.L ).

Popped in the new fuse and voila, interior gauge lights. Less than 5 minutes.

Lesson learned about using a fuse tester that I started with, made it look like the fuse was still good.

Thanks for all the help and some education, fellas. It's always appreciated.

Dan
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