64 Chevelle Alternator Wiring HELP - Chevelle Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems.

 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old May 12th, 18, 2:24 AM Thread Starter
 
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64 Chevelle Alternator Wiring HELP

Hi there CF, long time no post!

Recently helping a friend fix his '64 'Velle 327 2BBL 3onthetree. Much nicer than my old '68.

He evidently had a bad external regulator (original style) or alternator and fried the wire fron the factory horn relay bus to the battery.

This wire was replaced and even the alternator was replaced, but what happens (everytime) is as soon as you connect the battery it sparks like crazy like there is a short.

He was advised that the regulator could have been bad so he started a conversion to a later model (10SI '75 Camaro unit) internally regulated alternator and plug.

How should I properly wire the newer style alternator to his '64 and delete the external regulator properly?

The wiring for the '64 is weird in that is comes all to a factory horn relay / bus bar, and if I give the red wire that goes to the fuse block 12v it does nothing but only turn on the headlights very dim. Battery has good voltage. All fuses are there and look good.

Any other ideas on why it might be doing this? I figured if the 12v lead wire to the fuse block got power the interior stuff should turn on but it doesn't.

It's been a while since I did a conversion to a 10SI newer alternator, but the last time I did I jumpered the red wire from the red wire on the Alternator plug to the back of the Alt charging post and ran that to the battery junction, and the red wire to the fuse block I hooked to the same junction and if I do that here it sparks and does not power the car.

Losing my mind on the simple stuff again! Thanks!
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old May 12th, 18, 6:44 AM
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Re: 64 Chevelle Alternator Wiring HELP

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old May 12th, 18, 1:06 PM
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Joe
 
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Re: 64 Chevelle Alternator Wiring HELP

Instead of worrying about alternator conversions right now, you need to methodically track down the actual culprit(s) causing the unwanted current draw.

With both the external regulator unplugged and the large red wire disconnected from the back of the alternator (and carefully put aside so it doesn’t short to ground), do you still get a spark when connecting up the battery?

Something is drawing current, and needs to be tracked down.
Sounds like it could be multiple issues.

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old May 13th, 18, 4:54 PM
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Re: 64 Chevelle Alternator Wiring HELP

What Joe said. simplify, isolate, test.

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old May 13th, 18, 11:33 PM
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Re: 64 Chevelle Alternator Wiring HELP

Quote:
Originally Posted by white68 View Post
Hi there CF, long time no post!

Recently helping a friend fix his '64 'Velle 327 2BBL 3onthetree. Much nicer than my old '68.

He evidently had a bad external regulator (original style) or alternator and fried the wire fron the factory horn relay bus to the battery.

This wire was replaced and even the alternator was replaced, but what happens (everytime) is as soon as you connect the battery it sparks like crazy like there is a short.

He was advised that the regulator could have been bad so he started a conversion to a later model (10SI '75 Camaro unit) internally regulated alternator and plug.

How should I properly wire the newer style alternator to his '64 and delete the external regulator properly?

The wiring for the '64 is weird in that is comes all to a factory horn relay / bus bar, and if I give the red wire that goes to the fuse block 12v it does nothing but only turn on the headlights very dim. Battery has good voltage. All fuses are there and look good.

Any other ideas on why it might be doing this? I figured if the 12v lead wire to the fuse block got power the interior stuff should turn on but it doesn't.

It's been a while since I did a conversion to a 10SI newer alternator, but the last time I did I jumpered the red wire from the red wire on the Alternator plug to the back of the Alt charging post and ran that to the battery junction, and the red wire to the fuse block I hooked to the same junction and if I do that here it sparks and does not power the car.

Losing my mind on the simple stuff again! Thanks!
I just went through a "loosing my mind with the simple stuff" today. Yesterday I went to a show and out of the blue the horn stuck on and then for no reason, it stopped. Thinking what the heck, I let it go only to have a few minutes pass and then the horn sounds again out of the blue. It then stays on and I smack the steering wheel thinking maybe it's the horn contacts as I had replaced the wheel last year but it still keeps sounding so I then go under the hood and unplug the horn wire from the horn relay and it stops.

Not thinking exactly what it was and I was at a show doing other things, I walked away. After a few hours at the show my mind started thinking about the problem and thought that if the horn relay is stuck sounding the horns, then the dang thing (activation coil) is drawing power right now so I go back to the car, open the car door and the dome light is dimmer than normal. I then get under the hood and get a whiff of hot electronics. I feel the relay and it's nice and toasty HOT. I then borrow some pliers and disconnect the battery cable and take the relay out, take the cover off and could smell the electronics.

Since I did not have a meter to figure things out, I still needed the relay on place for the buss bar portion so I then left the horn activation wire disconnected, the horn output terminal disconnected, as well as the key buzzer terminal disconnected. Basically I had two connection on the buss bar portion with one terminal going to the wire going over to the battery and the other smaller wire to the bulkhead connector and then had it bolted to the radiator support to keep it from hanging by the wires so I could get home. Thinking I was good to go until I could get into it later, when I reconnected the battery, I got a spark. WTH so I disconnect the battery and unbolt the relay, reconnect the battery and no spark. I then touched the relay bracket to the radiator support and got a spark. So to get home and work with a clear head and tools, I wrapped it in a cloth and got the car home.

After some troubleshooting, turns out the relay pass through rivet for the activation terminal becomes shorted to the bracket every now and then but before I found this I had the lid off and could with it being loose, short the buss portion of the relay to the relays mounting bracket.

Not to say what really caused the issue you are seeing with a burnt battery wire to horn relay but maybe look at your horn relay and it's connections. If the relays cover does touch the buss portion of the relay and the relay is grounded to the radiator support, this can do damage to the relay to battery wire. If you have good power from the battery going to a short at the horn relay, this will then drop the power out of the relay to power the headlights.

Just throwing this out with a long story of an issue I had.

Jim

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old May 14th, 18, 11:19 AM
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Re: 64 Chevelle Alternator Wiring HELP

Thinking about this some more, I know on the older Chevy II Nova's the battery feed wire on some never had any protection on them such as a fusible link so if yours did not have one originally, maybe think of adding the proper sized one.

Jim

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