ACC or IGN? - Chevelle Tech
Electrical & Wiring Troubleshooting electrical problems.

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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Feb 28th, 18, 3:24 PM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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ACC or IGN?

Since I am going to a new Dakota Digital dash, I am also redoing the rats nest of wires and I am not 100% sure about the OEM fuse box ports. I'd like to run a 10 or 12 gauge power wire from the fuse box to a junction block in the center of the dash to add accessories and other things, but do I plug into ACC or IGN. The things that need to be wired in are....

D.D. VHX dash full power - straight to BAT terminal, no inline fuse needed I'm guessing.

D.D. VHX key on power (I could use Radio wire as I pulled my stereo out?)
FiTech key on power (currently straight to IGN port)
Line Lock (currently tapped into Cig Lighter wire)
Future 12v Port
Future 5v USB port
Future 2 Step
Future Oil Temp gauge
Then room for expansion.

1971 Chevelle SS454, T56 Magnum 6 speed, 3.31 Posi

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Feb 28th, 18, 3:59 PM
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Re: ACC or IGN?

You need to weigh out if you want things powered up when the key is in the run AND crank position (and if so, would use the IGN terminal) or can you get by with having the things work with the key in the accessory and run position only (this would be the ACC terminal).

Most of the time, I would like the least amount of things tied into the IGN terminal so I am getting the most power to the starter solenoid.

Keep in mind that the "taps" in the fuse block are normally fused and a particular neighboring fuse protects that tap as well as anything else tied into behind the fuse block on that fuse. You may run into a situation that there is a "tap" available and it's protected by a 20A fuse but the circuit is already needing 10A, so then this would only allow an additional 10A to be pulled off of the "tap".


As far as "straight to BAT terminal, no inline fuse needed I'm guessing" is a no/no. NEVER have an unprotected wire.

Jim

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Feb 28th, 18, 6:03 PM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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Re: ACC or IGN?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Streib View Post
You need to weigh out if you want things powered up when the key is in the run AND crank position (and if so, would use the IGN terminal) or can you get by with having the things work with the key in the accessory and run position only (this would be the ACC terminal).

Most of the time, I would like the least amount of things tied into the IGN terminal so I am getting the most power to the starter solenoid.

Keep in mind that the "taps" in the fuse block are normally fused and a particular neighboring fuse protects that tap as well as anything else tied into behind the fuse block on that fuse. You may run into a situation that there is a "tap" available and it's protected by a 20A fuse but the circuit is already needing 10A, so then this would only allow an additional 10A to be pulled off of the "tap".

As far as "straight to BAT terminal, no inline fuse needed I'm guessing" is a no/no. NEVER have an unprotected wire.

Jim
Isn't BAT tied into the CLK. LTR fuse 20A fuse? I thought because of that, an inline fuse wouldn't be needed.

ACC tied to Radio 10A fuse and IGN tied to DIR. SIG. 20A fuse.

I was thinking of getting one of these:


Then I could go from ACC to that block, and have 5 or 7.5A fuses to each accessory, so if one of them spikes, it will blow it's own fuse rather than carrying current to the other accessories and perhaps blowing the 10A fuse at the main fuse panel.

If I do that, it would be best to run a 30A relay to provide enough power to the mini fuse panel?

1971 Chevelle SS454, T56 Magnum 6 speed, 3.31 Posi

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Feb 28th, 18, 7:27 PM
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Steve
 
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Re: ACC or IGN?

I got one of these Painless Performance fuse blocks.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...SABEgIZ1vD_BwE

And placed it just above the passenger side kick panel. Comes with everything you need.

I used it to power everything for my Dakota Digital dash as well as a few other things. Works great.

BTW - for the Dakota Digital Dash - you want it connected to IGN - it wants power when you are cranking the engine. Using IGN was recommended to me by the folks at Dakota Digital.

1972 Chevelle, 454, 2004r, 3.08
1981 Camaro Z28, 355, TH350, 3.73
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Feb 28th, 18, 8:51 PM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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Re: ACC or IGN?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lucifershammer View Post
I got one of these Painless Performance fuse blocks.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...SABEgIZ1vD_BwE

And placed it just above the passenger side kick panel. Comes with everything you need.

I used it to power everything for my Dakota Digital dash as well as a few other things. Works great.

BTW - for the Dakota Digital Dash - you want it connected to IGN - it wants power when you are cranking the engine. Using IGN was recommended to me by the folks at Dakota Digital.
Looks like a cool product. I suppose I'll need a junction block under the hood, close to the battery as right now I have too many things connected to the battery. Maybe a heavy duty terminal with a short 8ga wire to that straight from the battery.

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Feb 28th, 18, 11:07 PM
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Re: ACC or IGN?

Quote:
Originally Posted by -SS454- View Post
Isn't BAT tied into the CLK. LTR fuse 20A fuse? I thought because of that, an inline fuse wouldn't be needed.

ACC tied to Radio 10A fuse and IGN tied to DIR. SIG. 20A fuse.

I was thinking of getting one of these:


Then I could go from ACC to that block, and have 5 or 7.5A fuses to each accessory, so if one of them spikes, it will blow it's own fuse rather than carrying current to the other accessories and perhaps blowing the 10A fuse at the main fuse panel.

If I do that, it would be best to run a 30A relay to provide enough power to the mini fuse panel?

When I read your original post, for some reason I was thinking you were referring to the BAT terminal was at the battery itself and not at the BAT terminal on the fuse block.

I just worry some times with people wiring things that the system becomes unsafe.

If you are tapping into an existing BAT terminal on the fuse block, then yes, this should be protected by a neighboring fuse. Just keep in mind that if it's a 20A circuit it needs a minimum of a particular gauge wire which would be a larger gauge than a a circuit tap that is protected by a 4A fuse. If that existing circuit is fused at 20A and already has a draw of 10A, then this leaves an additional 10A of draw so one just has to keep in mind there is a limit as to what one can add.

Like any thing else you may have to do some design work to know how much a particular device actually draws at start-up and then how it stabilizes after that. I know too that even a 30A fuse can pass 40A for "X" amount of time, a lot of things are see how it flies and go from there and I just hate seeing issues.

Jim

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 1st, 18, 1:40 AM Thread Starter
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Chris
 
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Re: ACC or IGN?

Jim, your input is extremely valuable and if it weren't for people like you, I would possibly put together an electrical system that was problematic or even unsafe.

I think I am going to use the Painless junction that Steve suggested. I checked out the online instructions and it has some weird fuse tap installation. Couldn't I just run a wire directly from the IGN tap to the Painless block?

http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/70107.pdf

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Mar 1st, 18, 6:19 AM
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Steve
 
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Re: ACC or IGN?

Yes, that is exactly what you can do. They provide those goofy fuse dongles since it's a generic kit, and not every fuse box has a nice IGN tap in it like ours do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by -SS454- View Post
Jim, your input is extremely valuable and if it weren't for people like you, I would possibly put together an electrical system that was problematic or even unsafe.

I think I am going to use the Painless junction that Steve suggested. I checked out the online instructions and it has some weird fuse tap installation. Couldn't I just run a wire directly from the IGN tap to the Painless block?

http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/70107.pdf

1972 Chevelle, 454, 2004r, 3.08
1981 Camaro Z28, 355, TH350, 3.73
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 2nd, 18, 6:48 PM
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Jon
 
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Re: ACC or IGN?

so I'm hooking up the same painless fuse block and the previous owner hacked some of the wiring. Is it normal for the IGN on the fuse block to be hooked up to the the coil? If so then i suppose I put both wires into the female spade.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Jul 8th, 18, 10:18 AM
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Brian
 
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Re: ACC or IGN?

When I built my 67 Malibu, I effectively added a second electrical system to support all the stuff I added - Accuair compressors, Holley ECU, electric fuel pump, MSD 6AL box, etc. While the 50 year old wiring was in good shape, it couldn't handle all the electrical demand (i.e., amps) I was adding. I only tapped into the existing electrical for signaling to the relays - not to supply power to any of the devices. The junction box from Painless is a great way to accomplish this. I also relocated the battery to the trunk which actually made it convenient and nearby to locate the distribution, relay and other components.
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1967 Chevelle Malibu, 463 BB, Edelbrock Performer RPM Power Package, Holley Terminator EFI, TCI Street Fighter 700R4, Moser Muscle Pac 12 bolt rearend, RideTech air suspension system, Accuair e-level air management, Wilwood Forged Dynalite disc brakes, US Mags Rambler wheels & Continental Extreme Contact tires


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