Worst Case scenario Bucket seat rebuild - Page 3 - Chevelle Tech
Interiors Upholstery and soft trim

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post #31 of 92 (permalink) Old Jul 10th, 17, 2:51 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Worst Case scenario Bucket seat rebuild







If this is not what you see on your box and on your buns when you get them, SEND THEM BACK.

American Cushion Industries is the only seat bun you want for your GM seats.

Ben R.

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post #32 of 92 (permalink) Old Jul 10th, 17, 2:54 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Worst Case scenario Bucket seat rebuild

Ok- back to building these things...

Here is what you are looking at on the backside of your buns (if you bought the good ones!) The cloth you see here is how you install these to the frames.



For lower cushions, i set the bun in place, center it and make sure the front corners of the spring assembly sit evenly in the front corners of the bun...



THen i hogring the rear of the bun to the frame.



Then do the front


And sides (making sure the lip of the foam is pulled over the edgewire



Ben R.

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post #33 of 92 (permalink) Old Jul 10th, 17, 3:00 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Worst Case scenario Bucket seat rebuild

For the upper cushions, i start with the bun face down



THen set the frame in and locate it as far to the top as possible, so the corners of the edgewire are right at the top corners of the bun





Center the bottom of the frame inside the bun. It should be right about at the spot the sides kick upward



Now you pull the top of the foam over the top of the frame, and use the cloth to hogring it to the frame.



do the same at the bottom. Don't worry about trying to pull the bottom super tight. Just pull it enough to hogring about midway up the springs.



Fold the corners in under the hinges and hogring


And then bring up the sides


Now your buns are installed!

Ben R.

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post #34 of 92 (permalink) Old Jul 10th, 17, 3:07 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Worst Case scenario Bucket seat rebuild



Ah... Production variations.
What we are looking at here is headrest guides. These seats started out life as 70 442 seats and they used the black guides on the right. Note how much higher the spacing is from where it screws to the frame to the top of the pad.

I know from experience that that style always leaves a little bump up through the cover.

I plan to run headrests on these seats, but not sure when i'm going to get around to that... so i'm going to run the ones on the LEFT which came from a 69 chevelle.

These should be about as thick as the foam is when compressed, so that they won't be readily visible through the cover until i'm ready to install the lock bezel on the top.

Interestingly enough when i searched my supplies for the short ones i discovered there was actually a medium height one as well. Hard to say what those were out of.

anyway-

You'll note that the bottom of the tubes is sharp... thats so it could be jammed through the bun.


Find your hole


and shove that thing in there


push it all the way in, and it will leave a mark on the bun when you pull it back out.



I make a clean slice all the way across the mark, but don't hog it out. You will want to use your finger to help push teh foam out from underneath the guide when you put it in to attach.



The foam needs to be pushed away from the bottom and the sides so that they can contact the metal of the frame.






And headrest tubes are in


Ben R.

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Last edited by RAMBO; Jul 10th, 17 at 10:39 AM.
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post #35 of 92 (permalink) Old Jul 10th, 17, 3:08 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Worst Case scenario Bucket seat rebuild



I think we are finally ready for covers tomorrow...

Ben R.

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post #36 of 92 (permalink) Old Jul 11th, 17, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Worst Case scenario Bucket seat rebuild

So like on the upper frames, what do you do when the tabs that the covers hog ring to are rusted off? here is what I do...







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Ben R.

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post #37 of 92 (permalink) Old Jul 11th, 17, 12:53 PM
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Re: Worst Case scenario Bucket seat rebuild

So, I have been away for a while (retired and finished all of my outside work around the house) and now I am checking things out on the site.

What a pleasure to read this whole thread and absorb some of the mystery surrounding the seat rebuilding... especially the buckets!

I am very impressed with your work, Rambo.... yes - very well done.
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post #38 of 92 (permalink) Old Jul 11th, 17, 1:23 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Worst Case scenario Bucket seat rebuild

I didn't get as much done last night as i would have liked, but here was my limited progress and steps for the cover prep and install

I start out by marking the bun channels where i plan to attach the hogrings. 4 evenly spaced marks.



Then i slice them with a box knife big enough to get my finger through so it can locate the paper covered listing rod on the spring assembly underneath- this makes it so its super easy to catch it with the hogring.



Then i take the cover, fold it inside out and lay it over the cushion. Put the "ears" of the rear flap into position on the rear frame kickup, that will center the cover at the rear.

Center the front of the cover with the frame (make marks on the frame & bun to help) then carefully fold up each side bolster, slip the listing sleeve down in to the channel and mark them in the same places you marked on the bun.

With those marks in place, now you will know the cover will stay centered while you work with it.

Next I toss the cover in my clothes dryer on hot for 5 mins- this softens the vinyl, eliminates and wrinkles or creases from packing and helps it to stretch easier during the install.

When it comes out of the dryer again fold it inside out and yank out the little cardboard tube inserts in the covers listing sleeves and replace them with a stiff wire. Coat hanger wire works great- i often use the same 9ga rod i use for edgewire just because i have it handy, but its way bigger than it has to be.

I find that if you don't use a stiff wire and leave the cardboard inserts, the cover winds up getting "waves" from each hogring pulling it down, instead of the nice even tuck.

Anyway- again insatll the rear flap onto the frame ears in the back- line up the cover with the front centerline on the bun, tuck your listing sleeves in to the channels and start hogringing at your marks.

And here they are hogringed down through the bun to that rod under the springs.
A little push up from the bottom can help you locate and catch it with the hogring. Makes it super easy vs trying to force it through the bun & burlap & jute.



Next, take the back flap up again and hogring the rear sleeve to the springs back there, then flip the seat over, and compress the frame down and pull the front sleeve up into place and hogring.



Then work your way along each side starting at the front and hogring the cover into place



(you should have inserted one of those paper covered rods, or a coat hanger into the sleeve on the cover before this of course)

Once both sides are hogringed on, then you can pull the rear flap around the bottom.
Use a peice of cardboard to insulate between the springs and the cover.



And... the lower cushion is covered

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Ben R.

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post #39 of 92 (permalink) Old Jul 11th, 17, 1:45 PM
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Re: Worst Case scenario Bucket seat rebuild

Ben, you are the freakin seat whisperer! And that Ivy Gold looks great too!
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It is a rare man who can count his own blessings and not mistake them for personal achievements.
"SSuper Dave" Palmer
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1968 Caprice coupe, Ash Gold/Ivy Gold, 327/300hp, rally wheels, disc brakes, buckets, console, am/fm and tach dash, tilt and a/c.
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post #40 of 92 (permalink) Old Jul 11th, 17, 2:19 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Worst Case scenario Bucket seat rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stalkingbear View Post
So, I have been away for a while (retired and finished all of my outside work around the house) and now I am checking things out on the site.

What a pleasure to read this whole thread and absorb some of the mystery surrounding the seat rebuilding... especially the buckets!

I am very impressed with your work, Rambo.... yes - very well done.

Thanks for the compliments guys... I have wanted to do a full writeup with pics on how i do this for a long time, but never quite get around to it.

With all the spring repairs needed on these, it made it kind of a great BAD example.

I know that there are a dozen different ways to do everything I've shown here and there is no single right path to having good looking and feeling seats, but my goal has always been to show that ANYBODY can do this stuff with a few tips and examples- and hopefully that takes the mystery out of it, and helps to steer people toward having the best results when they try it themselves.
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Ben R.

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post #41 of 92 (permalink) Old Jul 11th, 17, 3:24 PM
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Re: Worst Case scenario Bucket seat rebuild

Great work, Ben!

I may have missed it, but what brand covers are you using?

David

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post #42 of 92 (permalink) Old Jul 11th, 17, 3:31 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Worst Case scenario Bucket seat rebuild

Quote:
Originally Posted by davewho1 View Post
Great work, Ben!

I may have missed it, but what brand covers are you using?
I hadn't mentioned it yet, but these are from Legendary- No secret that I prefer their stuff, heavier weight, better defined grain.. But in this case i was most interested in color match.

I still have the original 300 style door panels I wanted as close a match colorwise as possible- and theirs is spot on for the original vinyl in my door panels.

The rear seat in the car is an older PUI one and its "ok" but its color is off quite a bit.

I also have the legendary headrest covers that will be going on these as well, I'll add those pics steps and details when I get there...

I like the Legendary headrest covers because they use french seams on the sides instead of the ugly bead welting around the front face like PUI's has. Look much better in my opinion.
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Ben R.

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post #43 of 92 (permalink) Old Jul 11th, 17, 3:57 PM
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Re: Worst Case scenario Bucket seat rebuild

Nice.

I bought some of the first '66 covers Legendary made a few years ago.
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David

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post #44 of 92 (permalink) Old Jul 12th, 17, 3:42 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Worst Case scenario Bucket seat rebuild

Forgot a couple pics from the lower cushion steps...

Don't forget to attach the rear "wing" sleeves after you attach the rest of the cover. FLip the seat back over and flip the rear flap forward again and fold the sides inward to get access and hogring them to the tangs back there.




Ben R.

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post #45 of 92 (permalink) Old Jul 12th, 17, 3:56 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Worst Case scenario Bucket seat rebuild

Allright... Moving on with upper cushions!

Locate and mark your centerlines! This is especially important when you are putting a headrest on(like i will) because if you have it off even a little, it will be really obvious due to the fixed position of the headrest!

Not as important w/o headrests of course, but never a bad idea.





Just like with the lower cushions, i mark my buns where i intent to hogring and slice them in those spots with a box knife and make sure i can touch the paper covered rod underneath wtih my finger.



Lay out the cover over it and mark it in the same spots you made on the bun.

IMPORTANT! If you are running headrests, you need to ensure the top seam will fall in front of the headrest guides. If you get them too far up you will wind up with the lock bezels going over the top of the welting bead which looks terrible. Use that as your guide on how far up to place the cover.

If you don't have headrest guides... its a little more tricky, you'll need to reference the bottom corners as well as the top edge to try and figure out the best placement (high or low)

anyway...
You pull the cover on much teh same as the bottom... start at the top corners with the cover inside out, pull one over its edge and rightside out.

Recheck your centerlines, and adjust if needed... then do the other corner.

These are really hard on upper covers! To make it easier you can drape some thin plastic (like from a painters drop cloth or a kitchen or bath garbage bag) over the top corners... this will help the cover to slide easier. you can simply leave it in once the covers on, it won't hurt anything.



Once the cover is on, i hogring at the top, using my hand to pull the vinyl around and down from the top. Don't just pull on the sleeve or it will rip. work the vinyl down, compressing the foam underneath as you go- then hogring in place.

If its really hard, you can use zip ties... put them in each of the attaching postiions and then gradually pull them each tighter while you work the vinyl inbetween.

Once the top is hogringed, then do the bottom corners, followed by the bottom center- then finally the sides, starting at the bottom.

Flip them over and bam! You are done.
Go ahead and slide the uppers onto the lower cushions to check alignment.



I still have headrests to do, some final assembly of tracks and seatback locks, and I need to get the matching paint for my plastic panels... but I'm pretty comfortable calling these done from a repair and recovering standpoint.

I'll followup later with the headrests When they come together..
here is a shot showing the french seams on the sides:



Anyway, thanks for following along!

Ben R.

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