Recovering '70 SS Bucket Seats - Page 2 - Chevelle Tech
Interiors Upholstery and soft trim

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post #16 of 105 (permalink) Old Feb 20th, 06, 8:37 AM
jac
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Re: Recovering '70 SS Bucket Seats

Ground up only sells black,I need white and whoever answered the phone at Ground-up tolde me to stay away from the PUI covers

70ss nassau blue
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post #17 of 105 (permalink) Old Mar 1st, 06, 11:58 AM
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Re: Recovering '70 SS Bucket Seats

Nice posts!! I know I'm learing a few tricks for when the time comes around for my seats....

Stacy
'70 Chevelle SS 396
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post #18 of 105 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 06, 6:05 PM
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Re: Recovering '70 SS Bucket Seats

Quote:
Originally Posted by jac
Ground up only sells black,I need white and whoever answered the phone at Ground-up tolde me to stay away from the PUI covers
I believe the covers that PUI makes are for Bench seat headrests.

If yours are ratty, the best move is to buy new black headrests, then get some vinyl dye matched at www.justdashes.com. They sell a kit that has a spray bottle, or use a gun if you have access to one.

They color match your vinyl, even the irridescent "parchment"

That's what I'll be doing to mine in the next couple weeks. They're color matching vinyl paint for me now.

Happy motoring!
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post #19 of 105 (permalink) Old Mar 24th, 06, 11:20 AM
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Re: Recovering '70 SS Bucket Seats

i took my buckets to a shop. I figured for around $100 including foam and spring work that was a pretty good deal.
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post #20 of 105 (permalink) Old Jun 16th, 06, 12:49 AM
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Re: Recovering '70 SS Bucket Seats

Hey Guys . The Secret Of A Really Pro Job Is A Heat Gun. Go Buy A Cheap Wagner Heat Gun. Heat The Seat As Your About To Make The Pull. Do It In The Area That Your Pulling. You Have To Get A Good Feel For It Though Because If You Get To Close You Can Burn The Cover. Once The Seat Is Hog Ringed Turn It Over And Heat The Cover With The Gun. It Pulls Tight As A Drum With The Heat Gun. Also Any Rinkles That Are In The Seat Will Actually Disappear Right Before Your Eyes As Your Heating It. Youll Wait Forever If You Depend On The Sun To Help You. My Seats Came Out As Good Or Better Then Any Shop Ive Seen. Hope This Helps.
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post #21 of 105 (permalink) Old Jul 24th, 06, 11:13 PM
 
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Re: Recovering '70 SS Bucket Seats

I bought covers at National Parts Depot for my 71 and they fit very well. Needed no trimming. I "learned as I went" on the first seat and they turned out very nice.
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post #22 of 105 (permalink) Old Sep 6th, 06, 3:02 PM
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Re: Recovering '70 SS Bucket Seats

I have ordered all of my materials from NPD to start this project and I plan on following all the suggestions here, thanks.

question- I ordered the foam WITH the bolster cuts as the covers I have DO include a rod/rings in the bolster areas. How hard are these to install as opposed to the outer rings that get attached to the springs or seat frame? do you have to cut the foam/jute or carpet to get these in? No pictures or discussions about the bolster areas that I could find, thanks

Cary Citro aka CIT, or NITRO
70 SS ZZ502 "Chery 70"
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post #23 of 105 (permalink) Old Sep 20th, 06, 3:38 PM
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Re: Recovering '70 SS Bucket Seats

I just did my seat bottoms. The method i used worked great and the seams (bolster area) came out really good. If you don't have rods you can get the same size rod from Home Dept. I was going to use caothanger wire but it looked too thin for me.

Cut the foam, carpet, burlap, and everything in the bolster seam. This way you can fish a pair a pliers up through the bottom of the seat and pull the bolster wire tight to the spring fro hog ringing.

after you have your burlap, foam, etc. on the frame put on your cover (front to back) and hog ring the back of the seat only.

then get a pair of long pliars and from the bottom pry apart with your fingers the backing and faom until you can reach the wire for the bolster and grab it with your pliers and pull it down until it reaches the seat spring and hog it down with your other hand.

The first hog ring is hard to do especially by yourself. but once you get the first (middle) one done the rest are not so bad. Make sure you go all the way to the back and all the way to the front.

From there do the front and sides and that's about it.

Lesson learned:
Have yourself a nice assortment of different pliers right next to your leg. Have different sizes, shapes, lengths, etc. This really helped me out.

good luck.

Jim M.
'67 Velle
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post #24 of 105 (permalink) Old Nov 9th, 06, 5:43 PM
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Thumbs up Re: Recovering '70 SS Bucket Seats

Getting that seam area (bolster) down to the springs and hog ringing it is the tricky part.I used another trick to get then down.Buy some long plastic tie wraps and push them thru small holes over the bolster wire and both ends down thru the foam pulling the bolster wire against the springs. Use 3- 4 or more per side until you get the seam where you like it. And you can pull them down slowly while adjusting the foam and seam to get a perfecty fit. Then you can attach the hog rings for permanent holding. You can remove the tie wraps or leave them.I also used this on the outer edges till they fit smoothly, then attached the hog rings.It's a lot easier to remove a tie wrap and reposition it than to cut a hog ring out of the bolster area. It's like having an extra set of hands to hold the covers in position.
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post #25 of 105 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 06, 9:41 PM
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Re: Recovering '70 SS Bucket Seats

My upholsterer said he uses saran wrap to slide the covers on. Trash bags are thick.
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post #26 of 105 (permalink) Old Nov 21st, 06, 2:42 PM
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Re: Recovering '70 SS Bucket Seats

Gentlemen,

I own a trim shop and I am posting this to say that what others have posted is good information. I might add to take your time. Probably the most difficult part of putting seat covers on is locating the various screw holes and cutting certain areas of the cover for head rest holes etc. Use your trusty old feel in your fingertips and a pick.

As for new foam...some foam sets will not work for certain seat covers...an example would be a set of seat buns for a 69 Camaro. The only ones available are made for a Standard interior. If you want Deluxe covers the foam has to be modified because the listings on the covers are in different places. In cases like this you better come see one of us trim guys. Many of the old muscle cars also have cotton in them. This stuff can be obtained at an upholstery supply shop or you may buy man made filler at Wal Mart. This stuff helps to smooth out problem wrinkles as well. You basically just stuff it up in there till you got it looking right. Watch out and don't make it lumpy.

S springs should be replaced unless they are in real good shape...to do this you must have the small metal clamps that hold them together. Those are available at your local upholstery supply house. I generally clean all the metal up and spray a rust inhibitor available at automotive paint supply stores on them. Then I use bumper coater spray paint to paint the frames. Some people go as far as to have their seat frames powder coated but that is really not necessary unless you are building a show car.

And one final note...be very very careful when removing your old seat covers because you may be one of the lucky ones who discovers a build sheet tucked under the covers. Sometimes on my personal stuff and my friend's cars I will place a business card under the new cover. I have always done this so as to have a 'secret' about the car that no one else knows about!

By the way hog ring pliers and hog rings should be purchased from an upholstery supply shop...buy a pound of hogrings and you will be able to do two or three cars. They also have spring benders and s springs sold by the foot if you wish to make your own springs. I do that but only because I am a trim man. If you are a shadetree upholsterer I would tell you to get some extra old seats to scavenge parts from or just buy them from a resto catalog as working with springs is difficult, hard on the hands, and can be dangerous to the eye. They have a tendency to 'spring' at you just when you have your face close to them trying to get the right bend.

Good Luck gentlemen!
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post #27 of 105 (permalink) Old Dec 5th, 06, 10:46 PM
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Re: Recovering '70 SS Bucket Seats

Hey Mark. the hinshaws seats are $1600.00 for a set of buckets. ready to bolt in. If the picture is true to from. they look great. But still its $ 1600.00 ....or 1600 FROSTYS OR 1600 chicken nuggets. ha ha ha.
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post #28 of 105 (permalink) Old Dec 6th, 06, 1:30 AM
 
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Re: Recovering '70 SS Bucket Seats

Greetings...

Check out this link...it may be helpful to you..

http://www.buickperformance.com/bs.htm

thealchemist12(milt)
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post #29 of 105 (permalink) Old Dec 8th, 06, 9:00 AM
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Re: Recovering '70 SS Bucket Seats

70 gold nugget thanks for tipps. i'm about to recover my seats. i wondered why nobody mentioned cotton on the foam.i went to a seminar on cover installation last week at local trim shop. he said he puts cottton on top of all foam to add extra cush.he also hates the manufactured seat foam available.
the link to buick site is informative,but looks to me like the seat back is crooked. also that the welt cord is kind of far over seat edge.and the tuff is pulled out of very front edge of cover. maybe from the lack cotton in between foam and cover.
the trim shop owner does top notch work so i plan on useing cotton on top of the foam i cut myself if it is under them now or not.
THANKS

jerry
70ss 396 4spd
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post #30 of 105 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 07, 4:09 PM
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Re: Recovering '70 SS Bucket Seats

Hey All,

To the guys that used an extra 1" foam over the existing, where did you stop with it - did you lay it over all the way over the top of the seat back (headrest area) ? It would seem that this might cause problems getting the covers on right. Same for the sides, did you hog ring it right around the edge or leave it there loose where the covers would pull it it snug ?

I pulled off and re-installed some original covers before(replaced the foams with nice used ones) and they turned out nice without any extra foam. So no experience with the aftermarket covers, do they fit looser ?

Thanks very much,

Andre

1969 SS396, Lemans blue, M21, 4.10 12 bolt, Matching #'s
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