BBC crank, forged steel vs. cast - Page 2 - Chevelle Tech
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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old Jun 30th, 03, 5:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by 427L88:
You migth check one chamber on each just so you can calculate compression. But if Bill had these done professionally, you shouldnt have to go through each chamber.
The heads have been surfaced and modified with the bigger valves but I seem to recall he specifically said they had not been cc'd. He was not sure what the exact cc's were at least. CC-ing is fairly easy to do, it's just tedious.

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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old Jun 30th, 03, 6:17 PM
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Let me add a note here on the 6223 forged GM cranks that Comp. Products is selling. They are surplus GM Truck cranks and not the same as the passenger HP 3.76" 6223 cranks. The mains are not cross-drilled and they are not tuftrided (nitrided). The passenger cranks have three paint swipes on the front of the forst rod journal: white, green and purple. Not a bad crank, just not the same as the good ones.

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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old Jun 30th, 03, 6:33 PM
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Yes, balance the sucker AND you won't have ta worry about throwing a damper driving down the road at 55 or 60 mph!!

My junk 301 used ta do it every so often..

Oh, and it is a kick hearing the damper exit the bottom of the engine bay!! Gives you that kinda sick, sinking feeling, like oh no! not again!!!

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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old Jul 1st, 03, 11:17 PM Thread Starter
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Or how about this one?

New Scat Crank on eBay

What the heck is "straight shot oiling"? That's not a new name for crossdrilled I don't suppose.

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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old Jul 2nd, 03, 7:41 AM
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IMHO,I'd take the GM crank over a Scat crank anyday.


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post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old Jul 2nd, 03, 9:21 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally posted by mr 4 speed:
IMHO,I'd take the GM crank over a Scat crank anyday.
I agree, and the GM crank is less expensive to boot. Any idea what "straight shot oiling" means? Now I'm just curious.

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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old Jul 2nd, 03, 10:59 AM
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The GMPP "performance" 427 crank is over $800!!! Yeowza! Guess my old nitrided/crossdrilled 6223 at $300 + 125 to go 10/10 wasnt a bad deal.
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post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old Jul 2nd, 03, 12:05 PM
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IMO I would get the block line honed also. I think its a good idea when you replace the crank.

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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old Jul 2nd, 03, 12:41 PM
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Hey Gene, I thought the 6223 was not the nitrided one??? The 7115 was the fancy cross-drilled nitrided one, if I remember right. I have the 6223 crank in my motor, it's definately neither corss-drilled or nitrided, and it came from an unmolested 66 396... just curious.

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post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old Jul 2nd, 03, 2:29 PM
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There were in fact 6223 forged, crosdrilled, and nitrided cranks. I have a special NOS two piece (broken) one in my garage. The 7115 piece was used in 68-69 L88's and 69 ZL1's and is the only GM 3.76" stroke crank that is counterweighted for the big 7/16" rods as those were the only 427's to have the big rods. L36, L68, L71, and L72 427's all had smaller 3/8" rods.

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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old Jul 2nd, 03, 3:52 PM Thread Starter
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I put one of the GM cranks on hold. I may have found a block and rods, will know more tomorrow. That deal on the crank is too good to pass up. My machinist says a non-cross drilled crank is probably a better idea for street applications anyway!

Competition Products also has a set of BBC reman rods with ARP 3/8 bolts for $180 a set. I could buy a set of used rods with 7/16 bolts that would need to be rebuilt for $75 so it's kind of a toss up. The 3/8 bolt rods would be easier to balance the crank to since that's what was standard with a 396/427 crank anyway (or so I've been told).

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post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old Jan 3rd, 06, 2:16 PM
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Re: BBC crank, forged steel vs. cast

http://www.pontiaczone.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12518
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