will the hayden fan clutch you recommend handle 7200 rpm at the strip?. I have a 4 row gm radiator, stock water pump that is for a,1980 chevy 1 ton big block,(cause that's where all my BB acc brackets came from) and a flex fan, running a 180* stat and temp sender in intake, temp runs 190-195 in 80*-115* weather, even at the end of a 1/4 mile pass it might be 200, and that's going into the burn out box at 190*, thought about going to a 160* stat and see what thappens, I also like the clutch fan set up you describe.
oh yeah and I am going to move the manual temp gauge sender to the head when time alows
Mac,check your email because i sent you a file with some of the 1st hand testimony of team chevelle members that bit the bullet & went with my rec setup and how it perf vs thier current setups (many elec fans) that had thier motors running much hotter/20-25deg F hotter on avg and in some cases 30-40 deg hotter then my rec upgraded & tweaked clutch fan setup did on avg .
And thats for apps that were stock to farily stout bbc or sbc street perf motors,my rec cooling system setup coverd all of them!
On you motors current running temp, in warmer outside temps theres a 10-15 deg delta in temp on avg (sometimes 20 deg with cast iron heads & stock ex manifolds) between intake and head temp with the head reading 10-15+ deg higher .
So with that said your motors intake temp of 195 = GM's prefered in head monitoing of engine temp in many of those gens motors of 210-215+ which isnt very good IMHO.
And your end of run 200 deg is 215-220 deg in head temp,NG IMHO.
And the head temp gives a much better indication of what going on temp wise in the head,combustion chambers & main coolant passage in the block close to the head etc vs getting temp from intake thats on top of the motor much farther away from the comb chambers ,heads ,main coolant passage in block etc.
And keep in mind that getting an old school bbc or sbc perf to consistantly run an in head temp of 180 deg + - 5 deg in hotter outside temp vs where your motors = head temp of 210-220 at times cam make a diff in perf/power.
Getting your motor running 25-30+ deg cooler with my setup will generat more power/trq,oil will be cooler resulting in higher oil pressuer (esp at idle) with a quieter hyd valvetrain,stopped fuel boilover from carb post hot shutdown, and in some cases has been reported that the passenger cabin temp was cooler too.
And the motor running 25-30 deg cooler will be less prone to detonation so you could maybe fun more timing for better perf without detonation for better strip perf/times too.
But with your setup/4 row gm hd cooling rad if you remove the 180 stat & run this autozone hi flow stat (15356) along with GM's 7 blade 772 clutch fan (& proper matching fan shroud) with haydens HD 2747 thermal fan clutch just doing that will reduce temp quite a bit. (also seal all airgaps between rad core and shroud with adheasive backed foam insulation used for heating cooling apps.
I rec sealing shroud to rad core airgaps because it forces all cool air sucked by the clutch fan to actuaally be moved thru the rad core for max cooling vs sucking x-amount of hot air from engine compartment thru the airgap between rad core and shroud which doesnt help cooling at all which in reality reduces overall cooling efficiency of the cooling system without the rad core to fan shroud airgap sealed.
And note, i found from tesing in same motor in same cond on same da that the autozone hi flow 15356/160 stat i rec consistantly kept the overall stabilized engine temp 10-12deg cooler on avg then autozones hi flow 15358/180 stat did in all case/cars i did the test on over the yrs no matter sbc or bbc.
That testing was done in hot summer 85-90+ deg outside airtemps with my rec upgraded tweaked clutch fan cooling setup with my rec 15356 autozone hi flow stat keeps in head temps of 180 deg + - 5 deg at cruise and 180-185 deg in moderate stop go traffic and 185-190ish or so in heavier traffic .
But if you plan to drive the car a lot in off season cooler temps the motor may run too cool with the 15356 stat in which case i'd swap to the 15358/180 autozone hi flow stat to ensure motor/oil run warm enough in off season use.
And in cars with man trans or with loose enough converter i increase idle speed to 1k rpm to increase coolant flow & fan speed too at idle for better cooling at idle esp on hot days.
Moving on to the fan clutch vs 7200rpm at the strip,1st of all if the motor isnt pretty hot at the time the fan clutch wont be lock for max cooling and will be most freewheeling unlocked and turning max of maybe 1/3 of engine rpm at best.
But if the motor is hot enough for fan clutch to be locked up (talking the hd 2747 fan clutch i rec) it still doesnt lock up fully and is only turning approx 75%-80% of what the W-pump pulley is turning at the same time so the clutch fan should not be turning the 7200rpm the motor is at the same time.
Also,keep in mind gm mfg'd hi perf hi rpm sbc/bbc motors with solid cams with a few having a 6,500rpm redline.
I know some people that have used this setup with NP to 7k rpm but keep in mind if your using a 40yr old GM clutch fan it could have stress cracks you dont see which could lead to it throwing a fan blade esp when on it hard which i have seen happen a few times over the yrs with std non clutched mech cooling fans and clutched cooling fans too.
I have also seen where a few much newer flex fans chcked a blade too.
So thats about all i can tell you on that one and its up to you if you want to run it ro not.
BTW,if you decide to fully follow and install my rec cooling system setup on your car please post back here with motor temps at cruise and in traffic before and then after you install my rec setup so people can see pre /post cooling system perf.
Please send that same info to me in a PM to ensure i see it so i can place it in the t/c cooling info i have on file too.