don't need those ears on the sides anymore?
small taps in cast iron, any troubles there?
Hi Tom, correct on the "ears", they aren't needed with this method. Later today I'll put another shot here with the plate finished, "ears" removed!
No problem drilling/tapping for the fasteners, entire procedure went smoothly after devising the jig to set all the holes in place. The jig is used to locate/drill the new holes in the plate also, in the first photo you can see the "register" that holds the plate in place to back-drill these holes.
Like I stated above, was fairly easy when I finally got a handle on exactly how I was going to get it to come together.
The only potential issue on some blocks is the uniformity of the original cam-thrust surface face, many favor one side more that the other. In other words (looking at the block from the front) some castings are wider on one side making the other side narrower, we can position the 2 bolts anywhere on the surface. They don't need to be "clocked" so to speak!
(Add) This a huge breakthrough for us when doing the 100% stock-appearing builds on any roller platform. In the larger picture the cost is also less, no cam button/locking plate, just the cost of the OEM plate. Cost/labor of installing the plate is about a "wash" with the time spent on setting up the end-play with the button. We can layout the plate at the same time we drill/tap for the front (3) oil galley plugs, which are also done while on the drill press
(Add) Below is a shot of the finished plate installed.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. On a side note, we didn't find it necessary to drill (deep enough) into the oil groove behind the cam brg but it would not have made any difference when the bolts are installed. Also, I could put 2 more fasteners in the plate if I felt it necessary. Would take about an extra 10 minutes simply by "turning" the jig 90* and drilling the 2 add'l holes.