Sorry, I haven't been keeping up on this since my last post. So, pleas excuse if some of this has been covered.
If you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, set it to 5.5 PSI. Pull the carb top and verify float height and float drop. While the top is off, ensure not trash in the bowls. Pay attention to the secondary jets, since that's where the problem occurs. Check fuel lines as mentioned. Put a new fuel filter on it and ensure a tank of fresh fuel especially if you haven't driven it much.
Last time I had the top of the carb off I took the time to clean everything out. I do not have an adjustable FPR. Tank has fresh fuel in it. I can try a new filter. What would I look for in the fuel lines?
Plugs, cap, rotor and wires are healthy (i.e. relatively new)? 12V wires to coil are clean and tight? No vac leaks in the carb gasket, intake gaskets or any hoses?
Everything is new I put new plugs in it last time I pulled the motor. 12V wires are making a good connection. I can't hear any leaks but i haven't sprayed starting fluid or anything to check but there is no noise like a leak.
Yes, I suggest giving it a more base timing. Is it 12, or is it 14. If 12, give 14. if 14, give it 2 more and back off the mechanical by 2.
I'll be honest I don't know if it's 12 or 14 it's hard to get a good angle on the timing plate but I believe it's closer to 12.
Do all carb tuning FULLY warmed up. This doesn't mean a jaunt around the block, drive it until up to engine temp.
Last time I did this (before the previous post) I let the car idle until it reached about 185.
Tuning an Eddy is a process of making step changes in the order the manual describes, one step at a time and looking for small changes. Most tuning will be with rods and jet combination. Eddy's book has a "power" direction and a "cruise" direction in about 4% increments on a graph. Make your changes according to the rod and jet combinations on the "power" axis on the graph. Play with rods/jets before you play with step up springs or the accelerator pump. Ease into the throttle rather than stomp on it. If you don't notice an improvement, keep going in the same direction. If you think it got getter, go one more step and see if it gets worse; if it does then back up. If you go four or five steps on the power axis, go back to the "power" baseline and change the "cruise" setting and then repeat with the next of combinations of the power setting. Generally, popping out the carb indicates lean and out the tail pipes means rich but it can get confusing.
The step up springs are calibrated out of the box for a vacuum setting. Thus, you can run a vac gauge into the car's cabin and know when you are getting into the power portion of the rod. Although you are worried about the secondary opening, the air door on the carb and engine demand should mostly take care of that for itself. Really, what you can tune for is the transition from the power step on the primary jets to the secondaries. I'll say again, spend most of your time looking for slight variations in drivability as you gradually get on and off the accelerator pedal.
I measured the vacuum at idle and went to a step up spring 1/2 the vac value. I'll swap them back to the original springs and start from scratch and see if I can figure something out if I can find time.
Once you get the slight changes dialed in, then you can start to stomp on it and get into squirters and pump shots; or step up springs.
Thanks for taking the time to respond I'm just getting frustrated with the whole thing between the oil pickup issue that made me pull the engine twice and this issue.