Well we pulled apart the motor for my 67 the other day. I have a vortec block and heads from a 97 Chevy. So far we have concluded it will need to be bored and the crank will need to be turned.

I have been considering doing a 383 stroker. So far I have been looking at Eagle street/strip stroker kit from summit.

I am looking for some guidance/tips from those of you who have built one before. I am just looking to build a solid street car, it will prob never see the track. I am currently searching as I write this.

Anyhelp would be much appreciated.

I have a late model 4bolt 4.040 block just waiting on me to get time, already been clearanced and whatnot,,,,, and meanwhile I plot. Probably will get a rotator from Mike Lewis as I intend to be stupid with this engine and I don't want any substandard crap that doesn't fit worth a **** anywhere near it.

I have also been kicking around an idea given to me by Carl Hinkson who told me has been sticking 2 piece seal cranks in late model blocks and using an adapter. Which as of a few days ago when I scored a brand new Hays steel flywheel, PP and disc on craigslist for like 33% of new money,( but it's for the 2 piece crank),,, this idea of putting a 2 pc seal crank in a 1 piece block appeals to me now and I see the wisdom of it.

Heads for my 385 will be Pro-Filers from Chad Speiers, not dinking with Profiler directly again as they shined me on for several months on the last set I bought.

My cam will come from Chris Straub and be an HR.

On advice from Mike Lewis I am going to do more research on hr lifters though as I had thought the beauty of the oem roller block was that you could run OEM rollers for cheap but Mike says they won't take too much spring iirc. Which, Straub should know the lifter deal so that will most likely be my 'research' is to tell Chris "gimme good lifters too".

Mine is probly going to end up fairly stupid for a pumpgas engine as it is going in a 55 and I have no desire to own a tri-five that is civilized or has an automatic tranny even though the car still has the factory powerglide in it.

Right now I'm mad as hell at chinee crap and I disrecommend anything from there even though I own an eagle crank. I can tell you for a fact that Eagle cranks are large, which means the journals are on the tall side of the spec and will run tight and you may even have to run an x bearing(.001). I've heard guys say their eglae crank is fine, but mine is large and I've read lots of guys say theirs is large too, and furthermore a very good friend of mine owns a machine shop and says that most of the eagles he sees are large and when he builds with them he has to use .001 bearings.

But you just wanting a mild one, heck get Mike Lewis to get you a Scat 9000 rotator(you will need capscrew rods and your block needs clearanced too)) and you could probably get Straub to do you a cam that won't need so much spring that you could get away with a set of oem hydrollers. A set of AFR's or Pro-Filers......happy motoring. And I've been wondering how the gm hot cam would do in a 383. I have one in a ZZ4 and it is real nice.


btw I believe we have another member in Saskatoon

yup, we do.

https://www.chevelles.com/forums/member.php?u=51023

Eagle Balanced rotating assembly is good stuff.... Perfect for a 383 street/strip machine.

been looking at something like this

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-B13054L030/

The only thing I wonder about is how strong the cast crank is?

I have done a pretty extensive google search and its a love em or hate em deal. But I am still going to research my options.

Jesse

Check with Wolfplace on here, I'll bet he can set you up with at least as good of deal, & a better balance job too.

Keep it under 6000RPM and you'll be fine. The torque is on a par with BB Olds/Buick/Pontiac's.

Done right you'll love it.

Journals on Eagle cranks tend to be all over the place, about half of 'em need a turn or polish. Rods are better, but still not perfect.

Scat's stuff, on the other hand, tends to be spot-on. Their cast cranks will handle just about all that Vortec block can, so I think it's a good fit. You have your choice on rods, I'd sure look at the Scat Pro Comp (no relation to the pro comp chinese junk) that are beefy on the big end with 7/16" capscrews and have polished beams, etc. They'll clear a cam with no grinding and no need for a more expensive small base circle cam, either.
I've seen mailorder balance jobs all over the place and cranks that looked like swiss cheese. Get in touch with Mike Lewis (Wolfplace), he can provide you with the Scat parts and a spot-on balance job as well. I'd get him to mic the crank and rods and provide bearings as well. His prices will be competitive with mailorder but machining is much better.