I have a late model 4bolt 4.040 block just waiting on me to get time, already been clearanced and whatnot,,,,, and meanwhile I plot. Probably will get a rotator from Mike Lewis as I intend to be stupid with this engine and I don't want any substandard crap that doesn't fit worth a **** anywhere near it.
I have also been kicking around an idea given to me by Carl Hinkson who told me has been sticking 2 piece seal cranks in late model blocks and using an adapter. Which as of a few days ago when I scored a brand new Hays steel flywheel, PP and disc on craigslist for like 33% of new money,( but it's for the 2 piece crank),,, this idea of putting a 2 pc seal crank in a 1 piece block appeals to me now and I see the wisdom of it.
Heads for my 385 will be Pro-Filers from Chad Speiers, not dinking with Profiler directly again as they shined me on for several months on the last set I bought.
My cam will come from Chris Straub and be an HR.
On advice from Mike Lewis I am going to do more research on hr lifters though as I had thought the beauty of the oem roller block was that you could run OEM rollers for cheap but Mike says they won't take too much spring iirc. Which, Straub should know the lifter deal so that will most likely be my 'research' is to tell Chris "gimme good lifters too".
Mine is probly going to end up fairly stupid for a pumpgas engine as it is going in a 55 and I have no desire to own a tri-five that is civilized or has an automatic tranny even though the car still has the factory powerglide in it.
Right now I'm mad as hell at chinee crap and I disrecommend anything from there even though I own an eagle crank. I can tell you for a fact that Eagle cranks are large, which means the journals are on the tall side of the spec and will run tight and you may even have to run an x bearing(.001). I've heard guys say their eglae crank is fine, but mine is large and I've read lots of guys say theirs is large too, and furthermore a very good friend of mine owns a machine shop and says that most of the eagles he sees are large and when he builds with them he has to use .001 bearings.
But you just wanting a mild one, heck get Mike Lewis to get you a Scat 9000 rotator(you will need capscrew rods and your block needs clearanced too)) and you could probably get Straub to do you a cam that won't need so much spring that you could get away with a set of oem hydrollers. A set of AFR's or Pro-Filers......happy motoring. And I've been wondering how the gm hot cam would do in a 383. I have one in a ZZ4 and it is real nice.
btw I believe we have another member in Saskatoon