383 stroker specs and questions - Page 4 - Chevelle Tech
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post #46 of 49 (permalink) Old Feb 16th, 11, 10:39 AM
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Re: 383 stroker specs and questions

Originally Posted by ChevStepper383 View Post
Hey im building a 383 stroker for my 84 stepside,im thinking of goin with the 350 block and 400-crank,flexplate,etc..My setup i wanna run with is the scat forged rotating assembly with 6inch H-beam rods,10:5:1 flatop pistons, extreme energy comp cam-solid flat tappet cam and lifters with comp cams roller rockers,making sure i have the block properly machined at my machine shop,Im thinking of running with the AFR 195cc heads with 64cc chamber and a edelbrock rpm air-gap intake manifold good for 1500-6500rpm and a holley quickfuel 650cfm carb with mechanical secondaries and electric choke,full MSD ignition with the pro-billet hei dist,all topped off with a set of supercomp full length hooker headers good for 1 3/4 primary tubes with a 3inch collector.

My tranny ill keep as the turbo350 and throw a stage2 shift kit at it with a 2500stall and convert it from a column shift to a floor shift using the B&M truck megashifter and most likely keep the 10bolt but make it a posi with 3.73 gearz. Im hoping to acheive between 450-495hp and 485-545ft/lbs
That all sounds okay, but there's a couple flies in your ointment.

Please consider a roller cam. There's power in there and if you're willing to check lash on a solid flat tappet, you're willing to check lash on a solid roller.

The 650 cfm carb won't be big enough. Go to a 750 cfm unit.

The Air Gap intake will pull to 6,500 plus- but add a carb spacer between the carb and intake. You've got a truck, so hood clearance isn't an issue. I like Wilson and HVH four-into-one spacers, but plenty of other folks make them too. They all work and deliver great power-per-dollar. I wouldn't go any shorter than 1-inch thick. Go 1.5 since you've got the room.

Since you're opting for an aftermarket crank, make sure it's internally balanced. I think there's some power in that, but the biggest benefit is that you don't have to find the oddball 400 flexplate or balancer. With an internal balance, cheap & easy 350 flexplates and balancers work just fine.

Your 10-bolt rear won't last long if you get traction. The kind of power this combo is capable of will exceed what the 10-bolt can hold. Maybe not right away, but eventually...probably at the worst-possible time (if your luck is anything like mine). Start sniffing around for a 12-bolt you can build up to take the abuse...or, do what I did and just step up to a Ford 9-inch. They're a bit heavier, but are really common and easy to work with. Changing center sections is a 30-minute affair (with practice) and that means you could have more than one center section ready to go in at any time (with different gears, for example). The 12-bolt rear axles aren't as easy to swap gears.

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post #47 of 49 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 11, 3:33 AM
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Re: 383 stroker specs and questions

If it was my engine Instead of spending a bunch of money trying to get those heads to flow like the AFR's. I would either dump them or use them the way they are. If I was going to replace them I would either get the AFR's or Profilers. Then spend some money on some good forged flat top pistons and lower my compression ratio to about 10.5 to 1. Pick a good solid roller to work with the heads and lower compression ratio. Having to run race gas in your street car is expensive as hell.
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post #48 of 49 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 11, 1:21 PM
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Re: 383 stroker specs and questions

Since he has 64cc chambers and if he did go with afrs with a 75cc chambers and a thicker head gasket wouldn't that drop his compression a bit.

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post #49 of 49 (permalink) Old May 29th, 12, 9:55 PM
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Re: 383 stroker specs and questions

Hey kyle, Man YOU ARE IMPRESSIVE! U sound like an old pro. Hope u achieve your goal OR GOALS! Actually I don't have any doubts! Welcome aboard!
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