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post #31 of 49 (permalink) Old Aug 6th, 08, 12:07 PM
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Re: 383 stroker specs and questions

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Originally Posted by 91 chevy 383 View Post
i was debating on that im not sure what im gonna do at the time being...id like to price out how much it will be to make my heads the equivalent of the afrs but im for sure getting rid of the intake and carb. they were just there to get it running. but they are both brand new. r u interested in the top end or just curious
No im not interested ,just curiuos because it really is your first step towards your goal . You need heads that flow 280-300cfm @6-700 lift . the 210 afr heads will do it . there are a few others as well for a couple bucks less.
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post #32 of 49 (permalink) Old Aug 6th, 08, 6:18 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: 383 stroker specs and questions

i just made checked my msd box for the third time to make sure it was set on 8 cylinders...no wires were cut to make it 6 or 4 so the shift point for my motor is somewhere off my 8000rpm tach...will these afr heads hold up to that kinda rpm cause i know my heads wont right now. i already threw a couple rockers off
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post #33 of 49 (permalink) Old Aug 6th, 08, 6:26 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: 383 stroker specs and questions

is the solid roller cam the only way to go when shooting for 600 hp or can i get the sam power out of another cam that wont beat on the valvtrain as much
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post #34 of 49 (permalink) Old Aug 6th, 08, 6:34 PM
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Re: 383 stroker specs and questions

Doubtful, cuz your peak hp is going to be waaay up there in revs to get close to your goal.

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post #35 of 49 (permalink) Old Aug 6th, 08, 6:39 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: 383 stroker specs and questions

so my best bet is to run the solid roller...is there nething i can do to make the valvetrain hold up or just replace them when they wear down?

Last edited by 91 chevy 383; Aug 6th, 08 at 7:03 PM.
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post #36 of 49 (permalink) Old Aug 6th, 08, 7:10 PM
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Re: 383 stroker specs and questions

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Originally Posted by 91 chevy 383 View Post
so my best bet is to run the solid roller...is there nething i can do to make the valvetrain hold up or just replace them when they wear down?
You definatly need a solid roller , as for lifters (wearing down) ,,,,they dont ,although they can fail (the needle bearings in the roller ). If you want a superior valvetrain you need shaft rockers (6-800 bucks) and roller grade pushrods,oh and a rev kit > 350.00 more dollars. the afr heads should be ordered with valve springs for your new cam .
I think you still have a problem with tachometer control ,because a 280 cam ain't going to 8000 rpm !!! maybe 7000 if your lucky ! ( and thats nosing over a 1000 rpm ).
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post #37 of 49 (permalink) Old Aug 6th, 08, 7:14 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: 383 stroker specs and questions

what else could be goin wrong with the tach...not only does it read that high but it sure the hell sounds that high...whats the rev kit your talking about. any suggestions for rockers and pushrods? seeing the prices on the rockers made me cringe...how would the erson forged aluminum roller rockers i have hold up
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post #38 of 49 (permalink) Old Aug 7th, 08, 12:33 PM
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Re: 383 stroker specs and questions

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Originally Posted by 91 chevy 383 View Post
what else could be goin wrong with the tach...not only does it read that high but it sure the hell sounds that high...whats the rev kit your talking about. any suggestions for rockers and pushrods? seeing the prices on the rockers made me cringe...how would the erson forged aluminum roller rockers i have hold up
a rev kit install's on top of the solid roller lifters , they look like an extra set of valvesprings that only control the lifters . your roller rockers are the crane energizers that erson sells . They are ok for flatt tappets but will die with 6- 650lbs spring pressure with the valves open . pushrods need to be measured before you buy a set (which means the heads have to be installed first) .after you find a length just call comp.isky,crower,manley etc .and order a set for your cam .(give them your spring pressures so they know its a roller ) .
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post #39 of 49 (permalink) Old Aug 7th, 08, 9:05 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: 383 stroker specs and questions

ok cool so just off the top of ur head how much do u suppose ill be spending if i were to upgrade the heads and cam this winter
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post #40 of 49 (permalink) Old Aug 8th, 08, 12:30 AM
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Re: 383 stroker specs and questions

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Originally Posted by 91 chevy 383 View Post
ok cool so just off the top of ur head how much do u suppose ill be spending if i were to upgrade the heads and cam this winter
heads 1500.00 (afr)
rev kit 150.00 (this is optional ,but a 600hp smallblock will like it)
pushrods 150.00
good rockers 225.00-450.00 (scorpion,crower) there are others i just listed 2
cam solid roller 230.00-350.00 depends on brand (press iron gear,small base circle, custom ground)
lifters 500.00
good timing chain (thrust bearing included) 90.00-160.00 brand again varies
thrust button setup, 20.00
pushrod lenghtchecker ,60.00
bronze distributor gear (if you dont get a presson iron gear for the cam) 40.00

this should get you a long block built =the high side 3380.00 dollars ,
figure 500.00 more for shaft rockers!
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post #41 of 49 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 08, 1:26 AM
 
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Re: 383 stroker specs and questions

first off here's to young guys that aren't turbo-charing their civics! (i just turned 20 too) secondly somone back there said to shoot for some smaller HP for your first build and i have to agree. but if you're set on 600hp then that's that. my advice is to talk to some guys at the track and find a good reputable local engine builder and get all your parts from him, cuz on here u can get some great advice but it's comming from 15 000 diff people all with different opinions. buuut if everyone else is so i might as well put in my 2 cents.
everyone claims the AFR's are great, i've heard different, but frankly i haven't much experience with them...we use alot of BRodix stuff which is very good and i think a lil cheaper then afr. i'm not sure if a rev kit is the way to go...kinda old-school technology maybe...if you really want to rev go with ti retainers and locks, hollow stem valves (better yet titanium) and a good shaft mount rocker system like t&d or jesel (which is expensive but worth it if u want to rev) another options that might give less valvetrain wear then a really high lift cam-u could step up to a 1.6 or 1.7 ratio rocker to get more lift. also no one has really mentioned anything about your block...is it a 2 bolt or a 4??? a stock 4 bolt will prob hold up...for a while...youre best bet is to either take a 2 bolt stocker and have splayed 4bolt mains put in or else go with a dart block or somthing. if u are sticking with a stock four bolt at least put on some billet caps. and maybe go with a cam with a 4/7 swap and a belt drive system- those can do wonders for internal harmonics

and for checking cam end play and all that just go but a couple SBC hi-perf engine building books

p.s. whever u change anything involving valve lift always pull off the head, throw some putty in there and check piston to valve clearance-even if the pope himself tells u not to. a 15 min check isn't worth blowing your motor up over.
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post #42 of 49 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 08, 5:36 PM
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Re: 383 stroker specs and questions

Well...for what it's worth...here's my 383 build.

http://www.compcams.com/Community/Ar...?ID=1945664039

It didn't make 600 hp though...it only made 545.

But, that was with 9.7:1 compression...on 87 octane cheap pump gas.

I did a lot of homework on this combo and it's easy to duplicate. If I wanted more top-end power, I'd go to a single-plane intake. But, I drive this on the street a lot, and I like the fat torque curve.

Also - it makes peak power at 6,400 rpm, so I shift at 6,500.

I intend to give it a little nitrous spray (100-150 hp or so) at the strip. I'll even run 91 octane when I do.

You don't need 13:1 compression and race gas to make good power. You just need the right combination of goodies. If you follow my story, you'll see the same results.

One last thing - with a T56 6-speed behind it and 3.89:1 gears in the rear axle, this engine delivers 20 mpg. Not bad for a station wagon.

~Scotch~

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post #43 of 49 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 08, 6:51 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: 383 stroker specs and questions

i really appreciate everyones advice...as much as id like to go back to 9 or 10:1 i just cant afford to right now...the ideal situation is behind me for right now so ill have to go with this compression for right now...thanks again for all of your help its very much appreciated
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post #44 of 49 (permalink) Old Apr 20th, 09, 5:19 PM
 
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Re: 383 stroker specs and questions

I'm a youngster as well, 22. My first build was also a 383. It is not the best but it is pretty stout. My suggestion would be to definatly go solid roller. I would not worry about valvetrain stress to much. I run a 260/260 .680 lift solid roller cam in mine and I drive it every day for the last two years. I am not sure of the horsepower numbers. I have never had it dyno'd. My heads flow 290 at .700 lift. The car with 12:1 compression runs 11.50 in the quarter. I had many questions in my first build so I feel for you and your unknowns. Fortunatly I had some good teachers that helped me along the way. Take as much advice as you can get but ultimately it is up to you wants and needs, as well as, what your pocket book can afford. Good luck.
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post #45 of 49 (permalink) Old Feb 16th, 11, 1:16 AM
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Re: 383 stroker specs and questions

Hey im building a 383 stroker for my 84 stepside,im thinking of goin with the 350 block and 400-crank,flexplate,etc..My setup i wanna run with is the scat forged rotating assembly with 6inch H-beam rods,10:5:1 flatop pistons, extreme energy comp cam-solid flat tappet cam and lifters with comp cams roller rockers,making sure i have the block properly machined at my machine shop,Im thinking of running with the AFR 195cc heads with 64cc chamber and a edelbrock rpm air-gap intake manifold good for 1500-6500rpm and a holley quickfuel 650cfm carb with mechanical secondaries and electric choke,full MSD ignition with the pro-billet hei dist,all topped off with a set of supercomp full length hooker headers good for 1 3/4 primary tubes with a 3inch collector.

My tranny ill keep as the turbo350 and throw a stage2 shift kit at it with a 2500stall and convert it from a column shift to a floor shift using the B&M truck megashifter and most likely keep the 10bolt but make it a posi with 3.73 gearz. Im hoping to acheive between 450-495hp and 485-545ft/lbs
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