Pulling engine and tranny - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 5:10 AM Thread Starter
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Pulling engine and tranny

Anyone have tips on pulling a small block with munice at the same time?

67 chevelle malibu / SS/ custom

Currently undergoing a metal work to remove all rust, if I ever get there.

Cant decide on prostreet or cruiser with a 4 speed.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 7:10 AM
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I would use one of thes lifting plates like I used to pull my big block. I've seen them used to pull small blocks with a four speed trans attached. Have fun and think safe.Click image for larger version

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 7:41 AM
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Re: Pulling engine and tranny

Am I the only person that is afraid to lift that much weight with 4 little bolts screwed into aluminum? I know a lot of people do it but I wouldn't.
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 7:55 AM
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Re: Pulling engine and tranny

I’ve pulled a dozen engine /trans combos with this. Works great.
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Tighten it till it strips and back it off a quarter turn.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 7:58 AM
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Re: Pulling engine and tranny

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Originally Posted by 69SS454 View Post
Am I the only person that is afraid to lift that much weight with 4 little bolts screwed into aluminum? I know a lot of people do it but I wouldn't.
Yeah, I never felt comfortable trusting them. A length of chain, a hook eyelet, and two 3/8 bolts is what I’ve always used.

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 8:16 AM
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Re: Pulling engine and tranny

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Originally Posted by 69SS454 View Post
Am I the only person that is afraid to lift that much weight with 4 little bolts screwed into aluminum? I know a lot of people do it but I wouldn't.

Uber expensive NASCAR engines get picked up that way, so I KNOW it's safe. but it has ALWAYS made me nervous. I've had two issues over the years with engine droppage, so I'm gun shy. Just out of high school, I built a really nice 350 for a friend that had more money than sense. One night he tried to pick it up off the floor with one of those (at the time) five dollar cable "come-alongs" the kind you would buy at Harbor Freight now, but used to be sold at those roving discount tool sales guys that would blow into town a couple times a year. ("Wild Steve" was the guy in our area, with the over the top yelling radio commercials to announce his return to the banquet room of the the local Ramada Inn) When he got it about three feet off the ground, the stop on the end of the cable pulled out of the reel, and the engine hit the floor. He called me right away and I came over and looked at it. I told him it needed to be taken all back apart and have the parts inspected, but he over-ruled me, replaced the smashed oil pan and pickup tube and installed it in his 81' Z-28. It ran like a raped ape until the crankcase filled up with coolant. I took it apart and sent the heads out to be magnafluxed. There were little radial cracks around nearly all the bolt holes, ruining a REALLY nice set of late 60's cylinder heads. Many years later, my dad threw a rod out the side of the 6.2 diesel in his 82' K-20. I was pulling the motor out with my overhead I-beam and 1 ton chain hoist. I had a regular engine lifting chain that has the plates on the end to run bolts through, but the engine had nice lifting rings on it, so I grabbed my pair of 3/8" s-hooks and used those to hook the chain to the engine. My old chain hoist had a bad spot where a few of the chain links where bent and wouldn't go through the big roller just right, and sometimes it would slip and jerk just a little. This time it did it rather violently just as the engine was coming up over the core support. The shock and the weight of that ole 6.2 was too much for the s-hooks, and they straightened out, allowing the engine to crash down on the core support. AMAZINGLY, no real damage was done, but it could have killed somebody. That chain hoist was promptly retired and replaced, and I went to a commercial chain and hoist shop and got some REAL s-hooks.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 8:25 AM
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Re: Pulling engine and tranny

You'll only have to take 4 more bolts out to take the extra weight (and hassle) of the tranny out of the process. I always take the tranny, bellhousing, and clutch off, then you can lift the engine pretty much straight up and out.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 8:30 AM
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Re: Pulling engine and tranny

Now that I've rattled on in the last post, to actually answer the question at hand. It's not too bad, you just have to be able to tilt the engine at a steep enough angle to get it to clear. The manual is physically smaller than an automatic, so there is less interference. Do yourself a favor and either drain the transmission first or find an output plug that fits so you don't spill gear oil all over the floor. Personally, I like to remove and install the engine and transmissions separately, ESPECIALLY with a manual. Maybe it's because I worked in a transmission shop in my youth and just got used to doing transmissions that way. I've done more than I care to remember, using both methods, but I just like to be able to set the engine straight down into the compartment.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 8:31 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Pulling engine and tranny

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Originally Posted by nitrofox View Post
You'll only have to take 4 more bolts out to take the extra weight (and hassle) of the tranny out of the process. I always take the tranny, bellhousing, and clutch off, then you can lift the engine pretty much straight up and out.
Jeff, I have always done it that way too.

Just think it will be easier to separate since Im older now with the tranny outside the car.

67 chevelle malibu / SS/ custom

Currently undergoing a metal work to remove all rust, if I ever get there.

Cant decide on prostreet or cruiser with a 4 speed.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 8:54 AM
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Re: Pulling engine and tranny

The Oberg tilt lift has two attachment points so as you tilt the engine, it tilts catty-corner.

The carb flange plate doesn't let you change the tilt as you lower the engine.

This 40 buck leveler is great. It has four attachment points so you can lift from the four corners of the intake manifold. Four x 3/8" bolts are better than two and better than four 5/16" bolts.
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 10:39 AM
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Re: Pulling engine and tranny

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Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
Anyone have tips on pulling a small block with munice at the same time?
I also have never liked the idea of using the carb mounting bolt holes to lift an engine by. I'd much rather use the accessory bolt holes on the front and rear of the cylinder heads. Some guys like to also raise the rear end of the car as high as possible when lifting the trans and engine out together as one assembly, but I'd rather just lift the engine by itself without the trans attached.

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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 11:37 AM
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Re: Pulling engine and tranny

I prefer to raise the front of the car as high as I can get it with jack stands under the frame just behind the front wheels. I've used both the lift plate and the leveler, it boils down to personal choice as either method works fine. I like to remove the distributor to prevent damage if pulling both the trans and engine together. I also remove the hood and radiator to gain is much room as possible.

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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 3:24 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Pulling engine and tranny

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Originally Posted by paul bell View Post
The Oberg tilt lift has two attachment points so as you tilt the engine, it tilts catty-corner.

The carb flange plate doesn't let you change the tilt as you lower the engine.

This 40 buck leveler is great. It has four attachment points so you can lift from the four corners of the intake manifold. Four x 3/8" bolts are better than two and better than four 5/16" bolts.
Paul, I have something similiar to that, but its not made exactly like that.

Here is what I have.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1021
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67 chevelle malibu / SS/ custom

Currently undergoing a metal work to remove all rust, if I ever get there.

Cant decide on prostreet or cruiser with a 4 speed.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 3:25 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Pulling engine and tranny

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Originally Posted by BillyGman View Post
I also have never liked the idea of using the carb mounting bolt holes to lift an engine by. I'd much rather use the accessory bolt holes on the front and rear of the cylinder heads. Some guys like to also raise the rear end of the car as high as possible when lifting the trans and engine out together as one assembly, but I'd rather just lift the engine by itself without the trans attached.
How much higher is the rear than the front?

A good rake? Like it has airshocks on the back?

67 chevelle malibu / SS/ custom

Currently undergoing a metal work to remove all rust, if I ever get there.

Cant decide on prostreet or cruiser with a 4 speed.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 3:25 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Pulling engine and tranny

Getting the headers and Z bar out of the way are major pain!

67 chevelle malibu / SS/ custom

Currently undergoing a metal work to remove all rust, if I ever get there.

Cant decide on prostreet or cruiser with a 4 speed.
Aaron is online now  
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