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7qt oil pan engine install?

2K views 10 replies 7 participants last post by  bracketchev1221 
#1 ·
Long story short, I have a trans dapt 7qt oil pan I got off summit that says it will fit my ‘71. Attempted to install the motor original block with the original tranny connect and it was a couple inchs from clearance(the oil pan was hitting the frame... and the tranny was hitting the firewall scratching the fresh paint...)
Has anyone installed this combo? Or a similar pan with the same dimensions? How did it go? I feel like I’m doing something wrong but I’m not sure what it is!
Next steps is installing the motor without the oil pan then installing the oil pan once the motor/tranny is “in” as much as it can be with enough room to install the pan again.
Any tips!?
 
#3 ·
Trying to put the pan on with the engine in the car without the gasket leaking is a major struggle.

That pan needs either the engine set straight down onto the mounts to clear the crossmember, with the trans already in place in the car or installed later....you won't get them both it together without possibly having the car off the ground high enough you can really drop the tail of the trans to get the bellhousing area far enough away from the trans tunnel to get enough angle to have the pan clear everything, and then lift the trans tail back up once the motor is close to right down on the mounts.

You do have the trans crossmember out, right??

Amazingly enough, the 6 qt rear sump race pan for the '62-67 Chevy II, with the clearance notch in the front section of the sump, actually fits the Chevelle chassis very well. The Chevy II pan tie rod centerlink notch helps clear the back edge of the Chevelle crossmember and brake line better then the un-notched 7qt race pan does.
Put the Chevy II pan on a buddy's '67 Elky.
Surprise, Surprise
 
#7 ·
To get the engine and trans in as a unit, your only hope is with the trans crossmember out.

I've actually never pulled or installed the engine and trans together on any '60's, 7's, or 80's RWD Chevy without having the crossmember out. Only time the trans crossmember stays in is if the trans is also going to stay in...otherwise, that crossmember is out so you can drop the rear of the trans a good 12-18" as needed.

With the whole thing together and trying to keep the trans tail above the installed crossmember, the bellhousing area of the trans is going to run smack into the firewall before you get the engine any where near the mounts.....that's what you've just met up with, right?
 
#6 ·
Hello.

I did the same conversion and it works.
But it's really tight on all corners.
Quite diagonally from above with the engine jack and under the Transmission with the jack.
Let the engine down slowly and lift it carefully at the Transmission Same time, then push it backwards - very, very tightly.
The oil pan should have been rounded at the front corners, then it would have been no problem.
Crossmember must out.
Watch out for the front brake line, don’t press ist flat...

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#9 ·
I have never pulled or installed an engine and trans together. To sketchy for me. Put the engine in and then the trans. Put the car up on jack stands and roll the trans under it on your floor jack. Done deal.
 
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