I cannot answer your question, but since I've never used either product, I just wanted to ask you the following: Can you be confident that either product realistically raises the fuel octane that much? I've never used such products, so that's why I ask you that. I'm not meaning to pull the topic off track here. But if nothing else, at least I bumped your thread back to the top of the list.
I have used it before and still have may bottles(supreme130) in the garage, whether it boosts your octane or not I have no idea, but you will be blowing a grey pipe whilst using it
I used to live less than 3 miles from Torco and the Lancaster's when I lived in Whittier, California Tey were in Santa Fe Springs back then. I was deeply involved with their business helping develop their motorcycle lubricants lines.
Their lubricants and oils were, and still are the very top of the line, bar none.
Yes I have confidence in the product. Much different than other Octane booster. I can tell by the seat of my pants just like when I have a airplane buddy buy me 110 LL airplane gas. Interesting that the cans have the original 130 octane supreme sticker; but came shipped by TORCO.
I think the Torco and Octane 130 are the same, just different labels.
Not everyone knows the following. It takes 10 points to raise the octane rating one digit. So in the example above if one started with 91 octane then two points would raise the octane to 91.2 and 16 points would raise the octane rating to 92.6
If it contains real lead it HAS to have a warning on the can "NOT for use in cars equipped with a catalytic converter" if it doesn't have that warning it does not have real lead. :noway:
So no warning ,no lead.
I also did the math, VP Fuel's octane booster needs 32 ounces to do the same thing.
Walmart (!) offers the Torco Accelerator in 5 gallon cans for $293.30 shipped. This makes 24 ounces at every fill-up of your tank just over eleven bucks.
That's not a bad price if it really does boost the octane that much. I guess the real test would to advance the ignition timing as far as you can before your get engine knock, and then add some of that stuff to your tank, and see if you can advance the timing significantly more without engne knock.
Ive used both, they are fine. I can run a little more total and not worry about it..do like the lead of Wild Bills, just use gloves and dont breath that stuff.
So this Torco Accelerator. What is it chemically speaking? Is it cheaper than dumping in a couple gallons of real high octane gasoline to mix in with a tank of 93 Octane?
My engine will be 11:1. Around my parts, Sunoco pump 93 is around $2.50 per gallon. I'd like to take trips in my car, let's say no more than a hundred miles from home which means I'll need to fill up two to four times, depending on what driving I do when I get to where I'm going. I occasionally spend long weekends upstate NY.
There are some people that would try to use this, and/or other compounds to sanitize hands, cure dandruff, drink as some sort of cure for errant Chinese chemical warfare viruses.
They are also so stupid, they have no idea as to how to HOLD THEIR SIGN.
If the engine is set up with the proper build of quench distance, other factors, pump 93 and Torco will be just fine for that c/r.
Here is a review, although from 2011 it gives a partial chemical make up of the product. It claims the main ingrediant is a chemical known as MMT which the actualname is 41 characters long.
I decided to try it out and ordered 3 cans.
93 octane is $1.97 here. So, to add one 32 oz. can ($25.57 delivered cost) to a 17 gallon tank of 93 octane ($33.49) will create a tankful of 98-99 octane at $3.47/gallon.
My Grand National will be the test subject,seeing that it runs great on 98 octane from the local pump (at the cost of $9.99/gallon!!)
Car is mild,runs around 19-20 lbs. of boost with 17* of timing. Probably a mid/low 12 second ride.
Thanks to the OP (Jim 66_SS) and Paul Bell for the motivation.
Does anyone have a chart or "rule of thumb" as to what compression ratio requires what octane??
Also, I was told no reason to use high octane unless you can increase timing to take advantage of it.. So no reason to use 100 Octane if only running 9 or 10-1CR. any opinions.??
I wouldn't trust any such chart since there are a number of variables which will determine if any particular engine can be safely run on pump gas without pinging, including the valve timing events that the cam creates. It's more about cylinder pressures than the actual static compression ratio. For example: you can have two engines that are both 10.0:1 static comp ratio, but with two very different camshafts, and one will ping on 93 octane gas while under load, but the other one won't, due to different the two cams in queation closing the intake valves at different points. The longer the intake valve is held open before it's fully closed, the lower the cylinder pressures will be.
Some people don't believe the following, but FWIW the author David Vizzard advocates to warm the engine up, and use a compression tester to see what PSI you get with the engine fully warmed up. He states that while you run an engine on pump gas alone, you should shoot for a maximum of 190-200 PSI reading. And it's when you go over that 200 PSI mark that the cylinder pressures can be too high to run on pump without a big risk of engine knock.
But some guys have run on pump gas even with the cylinder pressures of 225 PSI without an issue because of the efficient cooling system they have keeping the water temps no higher than 180 degrees
I have a 9:1 396. No idea on the tune, have no timing light. I run no corn 91 with zero problems. It’s fast enough for me, but my tastes will vary from yours.
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