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ordered Octane Supreme 130, this arrived

14K views 66 replies 28 participants last post by  jeff swisher 
#1 ·
#42 · (Edited)
There is no such thing as raising the octane with an additive you pour in the gas tank.. The gasoline has a number that they give it after the refining process and that's all it can ever be.. You need to buy the correct gasoline or even better lower the compression of the motor, compression is so over rated unless your racing..

On the street, I would much rather have a 454 with 8.5 or 9:1 compression that I can advance the initial to 18-22 and run 87 octane then a 454 with 10 or 11:1 that's touchy on 93 octane..
 
#44 ·
I’m going to have to disagree with you on that.

Simplified - all higher octane rated fuel does is improve resistance to detonation/preignition. Think compression, DA and grains of H2O.

If it’s 95 or 87 it has the same energy (BTU) value regardless of octane rating. 95 is just harder to light off.

Before emissions standards in the 70’s came into play - tetraethyl lead was added to gasoline to increase its octane rating (resistance to knock).
Then came the additive MTBE which was banned later on (maybe 2000?) in favor of Ethanol used now, another fuel additive.
 
#43 ·
ordered Octane Supreme 130, this arrive

My little small block 69 Camaro had 14 to 1 it loved C-16 ! I’m a retired Crane Operator ( 45 ) years ! Aviation Mechanics have to dispose of fuel when work is performed! I was setting fuel tanks at Hilton Head Airport ! Walked over to a open hanger and asked if He had any Av Gas to sell ? “ No, but I have two 5 gallon cans You can have “ ! I put 20 bucks in his tool box ! He said be careful with that 1 can it has VP Reno Air Race gas ! Talk about octane booster ! Wonder what the mix ratio is for pump and race gas mixed to get 100 octane for 11 to 1 ? Seems octane boost at part store was a waste of money !
 
#45 ·
I routinely run 22 to 24 degrees if idle timing, in engines up to 11.00:1 compression ratio, and properly set quench distances, on the street, but not with the "lock it out, it's a top fueler for the street" lack of mentality.

Doing it right, conservative initial, use a properly degrees stopped and vacuum rated vacuum advance connected to full manifold vacuum is the trick to it, NOT jacked up to the moon initial timing and no vacuum advance.
 
#47 ·
I'm using Wild Bill's Octane Supreme in my 454 Chevelle.

LS-6 short block with 820 (3993820) 113cc open chamber heads (1.88 2.19 valves) 210 psi (after the fifth pump up on the compression gauge) Crane Hydraulic Roller 134241, 226 @ .050 .587 lift intake and 234 @ .050 .610 lift exhaust. MSD induction pickup distributor and a 6AL spark unit with AC Delco R45TS plugs. I run 18 initial timing with 38 total at 2900RPM. It's a four speed car with 3.31 gears.

If I use 93 octane fuel, it pings at load. If I use 100 octane, it runs fine with no pinging and is very responsive. If I use 93 octane and Octane booster per the label instructions to get 100 octane, the car runs fine and responsive - but with a bit more "grey" smoke out the tailpipes. One 32 ounce container of Octane Supreme treats the 16 gallon tank fine and gets me right around 100 octane. I paid a little under $30 per container - at the time I bought a case of six containers.

I used to have a Sunoco Station 6 miles from my home that had a 100 Octane pump at that time (about 2007'ish) for $3.65/gallon. The price went up naturally until it hit a max of $6 and change a gallon. OK, there was always a muscle car/motorcycle now and then when I pulled into that station to fill up with it. Then one year a new owner took over that Sunoco station and converted that 100 Octane tank to Diesel!!!! Nooooooo! WTF?? Why did you do that!?!?!? What a disappointment! Roll ahead about a year and I began buying 5 gallon pails of 100 Octane Sunoco 260 GT Unleaded at $75 each from a local 1/4 mile drag racing track. Yes folks, that's $15.00 a Gallon! One joy ride could easily cost me $225. No Good! I'm not paying to have a 55 gallon drum (a little less than 15/gal.) delivered to my home either. Enough of that, so I started using the Octane Supreme with good results.

Octane Supreme clearly indicates cautious handling of the product saying do not get on skin, use gloves and do not breath the vapors while mixing. It contains lead which is what I believe raises the octane of the fuel. It's my understanding that by raising the octane with the lead, you slow the burn rate of the fuel which eliminates the preignition, knocking or pinging which is what you hear under load with too low an octane fuel to begin with. So far the octane booster has worked for me and is a cost effective alternative to the much better smelling but expensive Sunoco GT 260.

How long does it last on the shelf? Well, I bought a case about two years ago and I'm on the second to last container this month - and it still works - no pinging under load mixed with 93 octane fuel. So, for about $5 a gallon, I can go joy riding and not feel guilty about spending too much for gas and still get the performance I want from the car without backing out some timing. What's the point of that?. The Octane Supreme is stored out in a closed garage through all four seasons, O degrees F in the winter to 100 F in the summer. I'll be looking to buy more this summer as I am driving the car a lot more and there are no Sunoco stations with a 100 Octane pump near me.
 
#50 ·
If I use 93 octane and Octane booster per the label instructions to get 100 octane, the car runs fine and responsive - but with a bit more "grey" smoke out the tailpipes. One 32 ounce container of Octane Supreme treats the 16 gallon tank fine and gets me right around 100 octane
Sam
If you are using one 32 oz can to 16 gallons of gasoline you are raising the octane rating 7 points. That is creating 93.7 octane, not 100 octane. To raise octane one digit is 10 points. Actually according to the table posted on the label it takes 2.5 oz per gallon to raise the octane 7 points. So you are slightly below 93.7 octane with your mixture. Info is posted on the label in the link.

Octane Supreme
 
#49 ·
I am considering lower compression in several ways. Build another engine while using the LS6, buy new (aluminum) heads with a larger combustion chamber, or get different pistons - unlikely in that this is a real LS6 short block albeit an early 1980 casting from Chevrolet.

In the meantime, the Octane additive is working until new money comes available for the other options.
 
#52 ·
Look at the chart on the LABEL in the link in my post. It cleary says the chart is in points. The highest that chart goes is 16 oz (half a can) per gallon raises the octane rating 16 points. So if one put half a can into one gallon of gasoline it would raise 93 octane to 94.6 octane.
So one would have to put approx 40 cans into 16 gallons of fuel to raise the octane from 93 to 100

Maybe my math is off. Maybe it would be approx 14 thirty two oz cans to raise 16 gallons from 93 octane to 100 octane. Either way its not feasable.
 
#54 ·
I understand, that's what's on the can.


Their website has a chart that shows "potential octane increase (93 base)".


This is where the Octane Boost product is confusing.


However, the Torco Accelerator is clear, it adds octane.
 

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#57 ·
Sam,
Although I have no proof I suspect these companies that make these octane boosters welcome the confusion associated with the "points" rating. Most would assume just as you did that 1 point equals a one digit increase in octane.
If anyone researches the subject they will find the truth. I thought just as you do before I dug a little deeper. :thumbsup:
 
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#60 ·
Low compression/big cam engines just seemed to be lacking a little something.
Absolutely. I think a lot of guys overlook the need for a certain degree of greater static compression ratio required for many longer duration camshafts. But ofcourse it isn't only how much duration the cam creates, it's WHERE that duration occurs in relation to the crankshaft position, (AKA "valve timing events"). The later that intake valves are closed during the beginning of the compression strokes, the lower the cylinder pressures will be, and to keep the cylinder pressures up where they need to be for performance when using cams with late closing intake valve timing events, higher static compression ratios are needed.

But that's kind of a different topic than octane boosters, or the need for them. You can have an engine with a 12.0:1 static compression ratio with a cam that holds the intake valves open very late into the compression stroke, making the same cylinder pressures as a 9.5:1 static compression ratio engine using a cam that closes the intake valves very early in the compression stroke does. This is where dynamic comression ratio calculators can be a helpful tool even though many pro engine builders frown on the term "Dynamic" compression ratio. But it's just semantics. You can use whatever terms you want, whether it be "dynamic compression ratio" or "valve timing events". The end game or goal is to still know and understand when the intake valves are being closed by the cam profile you choose, and how it effects cylinder pressures, and what static compression ratio will be required for optimal performance.

I learned that for myself kind of by accident with a SBC engine I had years ago, when I installed a "bigger" cam and lost performance over the "smaller" cam from the same cam manufacture and from their same cam "family" which had shorter dur@.050 with less lift, and closed the intake valves sooner in the compression stroke than the "bigger" cam did. It was because the "bigger" cam with the more aggressive lobe profiles required a greater static compression ratio than the "smaller" cam did due to the different valve timing events it created, ( later closing of the intake valves).
 
#63 ·
Do not tell my engines with 10.75 and up compression that they need more than 91 octane as they do just fine as it is.
My 10.78 compression 350" with 280H comp magnum cam just pulled my bayliner to the lake and back, same tune as no boat on the back.

91 octane and a quick timing curve all in by 2200 rpm I run a tight 1500 stall converter in it Weight of car with wife and me in it with full tank of gas and fishing gear and boat spare would be a tick over 4000 lbs Then toss in the 1975 Bayliner Mosquito behind it.
I do also pull my 20 foot pontoon with same tune and same 91 octane fuel.

I built my friend a 396" with the 280H cam and 11:1 compression in that one.
4200 lb truck.. currently running 3.08 gear in it.

210 cranking pressure and tunnel-ram and 2 1405 edelbrocks it pulls 11" vacuum at 750 RPM.
14" at 950 RPM Large oval port heads that were original to the 1969 396" out of the truck.
I did port the heads and they now have 2.19-1.88 valves. 7000 RPM comes quick with it.

Fun times.
 
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