Electric Choke - Page 3 - Chevelle Tech
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post #31 of 39 (permalink) Old Feb 20th, 20, 10:32 AM
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Re: Electric Choke

Make sure the vacuum port is not blocked for the piston, or the choke flap will not function.

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post #32 of 39 (permalink) Old Feb 20th, 20, 11:28 AM
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Re: Electric Choke

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=...AAAAAdAAAAABAF
Use this kit

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69 Chevelle Malibu Sports Coupe Change to SS
11:1 TR406sbc/AFR227/Comp cam 280HFT/3500 RPM Stall conv./TH 350/12 bolt 410 Gears
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post #33 of 39 (permalink) Old Feb 20th, 20, 12:46 PM
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Re: Electric Choke

I used this one on my 69 since all my vehicles since my 36 Dodge in 1953 had hand chokes, that was what I was accustomed to using.
Pull it all the way out, pump the gas twice, it fires up, push it back in half way for 30 seconds, then try to remember to push it all the way in going down the street.

The automatic chokes on my 70 convertible and other vehicles do work great though.




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post #34 of 39 (permalink) Old Feb 20th, 20, 4:05 PM
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Re: Electric Choke

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Ray View Post
Well, I have to apologize to everyone, my answer had incorrect info on setting the choke plate, as called out by other members. I shouldn't be trying to answer 10 questions, from as many directions all at once.

Modified procedure, disable ignition system, open the throttle and block it open so the fast idle linkage holds the throttle plates above idle, add jumper wire to the choke stove.

When choke stove gets to operating temperature, open the choke plate just past all the way open, and then, reverse until the plate is just at the full open position. Tighten the choke stove, take the throttle holder out of the linkage, reactivate the ignition system, done.

The choke will close as the stove cools off, and vacuum in the choke pull off will hold the choke, plate and fast idle linkage open as long as the engine runs past full heat open. This means if the choke partially closes on a cooling off engine, the vacuum in the pull off will make sure the choke does not fully close and stall the engine. When cold, the stove overcomes the vacuum in the pull off, and the choke helps cold engine start.

As I said, I apologize if what I misinformed caused any issues, it wasn't my intention.
I didn't intentionally call you out Dave. I just didn't want members who were new to electric chokes set it like that and have more problems than they started with.
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post #35 of 39 (permalink) Old Feb 20th, 20, 7:13 PM
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Re: Electric Choke

I've never seen a Holley electric-choke kit that had the pulloff piston adjusted properly. It's an adjustment that needs to be made "perfect", and for the individual vehicle it's installed on.

https://www.chevelles.com/techref/Ad...tic_Chokes.htm

And, yeah, if you don't need a choke at 40 degrees, the idle circuit is pig-rich.
77 cruiser and novadude like this.

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post #36 of 39 (permalink) Old Feb 20th, 20, 8:27 PM
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From major performance engine builder on engine set up......


When setting your carb choke, we recommend setting it on the mild/lean side. It is best for the choke to open up to its full straight up position as quickly as possible. Keep backing it off until cold starting becomes difficult. Quickfuel brand carbs are best to run. They are also suitable for use on engines running a mechanical or electric fuel pump.
If the choke is set up on the aggressive side, it will create an over-rich condition upon every cold start-up and warm-up. This over-rich condition is very damaging to an engine, and will waste fuel.
If you feel you can get by without using the choke, then by all means do without it! The modern day carbs actually do well with very little or no choke. With a few pumps of the throttle and a bit of feathering, the throttle will have you off and going smoothly, in most cases with very little or no choking at all.
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post #37 of 39 (permalink) Old Feb 20th, 20, 9:31 PM
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Re: Electric Choke

One thing I've observed about the electric choke I have on the wagon is that if you turn on the ignition for a while BEFORE actually cranking to start, the choke will begin to open. If you have the ignition on long enough, the choke may not close enough to allow easy starting. A similar situation can occur if it takes a while to fire the engine, say, when starting it for the first time in the Spring after it has sat all Winter. I've learned to prime the carb and maybe just a tiny shot of starting fluid for the first start in the Spring and I crank the engine right away when turning on the ignition.

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post #38 of 39 (permalink) Old Feb 21st, 20, 9:50 AM
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Re: Electric Choke

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich-L79 View Post
One thing I've observed about the electric choke I have on the wagon is that if you turn on the ignition for a while BEFORE actually cranking to start, the choke will begin to open. If you have the ignition on long enough, the choke may not close enough to allow easy starting. A similar situation can occur if it takes a while to fire the engine, say, when starting it for the first time in the Spring after it has sat all Winter. I've learned to prime the carb and maybe just a tiny shot of starting fluid for the first start in the Spring and I crank the engine right away when turning on the ignition.
Yep, that is the good and bad of electric choke. To me, they are the simplest thing to adjust on a carb car, and I would always have one. Go to the car when cold on a typical morning, block throttle open way, loosen the adjustment, and move the choke adjustment back and forth so the choke just barely closes. If it gets REAL cold, it will be closed tighter and stay closed a bit longer. Also, you have to make sure the bimetal coil spring heater thingy is hooked the correct way.
When I had a carb on my El Camino, and it would dry out, I would tap the gas to allow the choke to set,and crank away. I would not give it any fuel as an assist. I assumed... That the extra cranking would also help with oil pressure at start up after sitting a long time.

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post #39 of 39 (permalink) Old Feb 21st, 20, 5:19 PM
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Re: Electric Choke

No problem, I posted bogus info, and it needed to be corrected.

Another thing is, with some of these chokes that have a threaded fitting on the choke body to add a hot air tube, there is usually a screen and cover nut fitted. DO NOT BLOCK THIS OPENING WITH A STEEL BALL. It needs to pull clean, free air to not overheat the choke stove coil, and, to let the pull off work correctly. With the engine running, there should be some level of vacuum at this hot air tube fitting, if blocked off, open it, and, make sure the choke body has the gasket between it and the vacuum hole on the carb body, open, free flowing.

Also, read what Rich L-79 posted, right on target.
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