Electric Choke - Page 2 - Chevelle Tech
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post #16 of 39 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 20, 7:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Mobley View Post
reely, check the area of the choke horn vs. the area of the vemturiis minus the area of the boosters and tell us again exactly how the choke horn is restrictive.
You can take your argument to Holley. They know more about their carbs than I (and I imagine you) do.

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...arts/134-300SA
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post #17 of 39 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 20, 7:52 AM
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Re: Electric Choke

Funny this topic should come up. I recently decided to put an electric choke on my 1850 on the Chevelle , just as I did on our K20, which works great. After putting the new choke on, the throttle was hanging up. I ended up removing the carb and found that the fast idle adjustment screw lever was dragging on the back of the choke housing. I was able to bend it enough to clear, but also realized the fast idle screw completely missed the fast idle cam. After striking out with my local "experts", I called Holley Tech support. After sending them pictures of what was going on, they too were confused and had me ship the carburetor to them. They just got it Friday, so I'm waiting to see what they come up with.
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post #18 of 39 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 20, 8:45 AM
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Re: Electric Choke

I prefer the choke cable..
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post #19 of 39 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 20, 8:56 AM
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Re: Electric Choke

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Ray View Post
They work just fine when set up correctly, which most people don't do.

Process is thus:

Mount choke, set power up, good source is the IGN terminal on the fuse box. Do leave the old hot air inlet OPEN< use the screen provided, and do not close it off, the choke stove inside the unit needs the very slight vacuum pull to make sure the stove doesn't over heat and fail.

Now, adjustment. After the entire choke is installed, power it up with a jumper wire with alligator clips so you don't have to leave the ignition on to set it. Slightly block the throttle open to allow the choke linkage place the fast idle cam OFF holding the throttle open. Rotate the choke stove to completely close the choke plate in the air horn. SLOWLY open the choke, then close it to the point the choke plate just closes completely, tighten stove retainer screws. Disconnect jumper wire power to the choke, restore car power to choke stove, REMOVE THE THROTTLE BLOCK TO LET THE THROTTLE FULLY CLOSE. Done.

Choke stove: the heating coil inside the plastic cover housing.
Dave, when the choke coil gets 12v it unwinds and opens the choke right? Maybe I'm reading this wrong but, if you power up the choke with 12v, then rotate the coil until the choke plate is closed and tighten it, wont the plate be closed when it's hot?
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post #20 of 39 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 20, 11:58 AM
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Re: Electric Choke

I have used electric chokes on my Holleys and the Eddy that came on the Chevelle. As OEm, there are are two kinds, electric assist, like Ford used on Motorcraft 2v carbs and full electric like most Holleys. The electric assist also needs a hot air tube from the exhaust manifold, ie, choke stove. The fords use an unreguilated 12 v or so direct from the alt, so if the engine is turning, the choke is getting power, but it still needs the hot air.

For the Holley, it needs 12v when the car is running, preferably in run only, not in start. Since I live in SC, I just turn the black plastic housing a good bit to the lead setting and let it go. On really cold days, ie, the low 30s., if I floor it before starting, the choke sets and they work. Otherwise they seem to start fine without the choke full closed.

Put it on, wire it, start the car and see where the choke position is and go from there.

Also put a J C whitney electric choke kit on my 82 CJ7 six, worked perfectly.

66 currently has a 30 yr old 1850 with the manual choke wired open. No issues yet.

66 Malibu Coupe, home rebuilt 350. Took me 39 years to get her!
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post #21 of 39 (permalink) Old Feb 18th, 20, 6:56 AM
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Re: Electric Choke

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Ray View Post
They work just fine when set up correctly, which most people don't do.

Process is thus:

Now, adjustment. After the entire choke is installed, power it up with a jumper wire with alligator clips so you don't have to leave the ignition on to set it. Slightly block the throttle open to allow the choke linkage place the fast idle cam OFF holding the throttle open. Rotate the choke stove to completely close the choke plate in the air horn. SLOWLY open the choke, then close it to the point the choke plate just closes completely, tighten stove retainer screws. Disconnect jumper wire power to the choke, restore car power to choke stove, REMOVE THE THROTTLE BLOCK TO LET THE THROTTLE FULLY CLOSE. Done.

Choke stove: the heating coil inside the plastic cover housing.



?
Wouldn't powering up the choke stove cause the choke to open?
So setting the closed position with it powered, would cause it to never open wouldn't it?

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post #22 of 39 (permalink) Old Feb 18th, 20, 7:35 AM
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I think adjusting choke housing CW causes slower choke opening. You’re winding bimetal spring tighter.
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post #23 of 39 (permalink) Old Feb 18th, 20, 8:17 AM
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Re: Electric Choke

To adjust the electric choke. Power it up with a jumper wire from the battery and let it sit for 10 minutes. Then while it is on, adjust the flapper in the wide open position..

Frankly, I find electric chokes a nuisance and prefer the cable.. That way you have the option to close the choke flapper and gun the motor to release pieces of dirt should they get stuck in the carb..
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post #24 of 39 (permalink) Old Feb 18th, 20, 8:24 AM
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Re: Electric Choke

Quote:
Originally Posted by Reelysalty View Post
You can take your argument to Holley. They know more about their carbs than I (and I imagine you) do.

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...arts/134-300SA

It's all about transitional flow... hence why race carbs are "bowl blended".

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post #25 of 39 (permalink) Old Feb 18th, 20, 8:38 AM
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Re: Electric Choke

Quote:
Originally Posted by Reelysalty View Post
My experience is it’s unnecessary above 40’ or so, if your Holley and engine is well tuned.
IMO, if your engine starts and runs fine with no choke in 40 deg temps, your idle circuit is too rich for optimal economy. Most 3310s come with .035" IFRs, which is way too big for a mild street combo (assuming 0.078 IABs). The idle circuit is so rich, it will do OK with no choke. Fix that issue, and a choke becomes important.
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post #26 of 39 (permalink) Old Feb 18th, 20, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by novadude View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reelysalty View Post
My experience is it’s unnecessary above 40’ or so, if your Holley and engine is well tuned.
IMO, if your engine starts and runs fine with no choke in 40 deg temps, your idle circuit is too rich for optimal economy. Most 3310s come with .035" IFRs, which is way too big for a mild street combo (assuming 0.078 IABs). The idle circuit is so rich, it will do OK with no choke. Fix that issue, and a choke becomes important.
“Runs fine” is your description, not mine !

BTW, you still running ported vacuum ?

Last edited by Reelysalty; Feb 18th, 20 at 10:52 AM.
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post #27 of 39 (permalink) Old Feb 18th, 20, 11:00 AM
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Re: Electric Choke

Quote:
Originally Posted by Reelysalty View Post
“Runs fine” is your description, not mine !

BTW, you still running ported vacuum ?
Yup. My car runs 12s and gets 19 mpg @ 70 mph with no OD. I see no reason to change.
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post #28 of 39 (permalink) Old Feb 18th, 20, 12:44 PM
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novadude says “Yup. My car runs 12s and gets 19 mpg @ 70 mph with no OD. I see no reason to change.”

One reason would be a step in the right direction for eliminating that power robbing, cylinder washing, excessive RPM while cold and (IMO) downright unattractive choke !
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post #29 of 39 (permalink) Old Feb 19th, 20, 8:10 PM
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Re: Electric Choke

Well, I have to apologize to everyone, my answer had incorrect info on setting the choke plate, as called out by other members. I shouldn't be trying to answer 10 questions, from as many directions all at once.

Modified procedure, disable ignition system, open the throttle and block it open so the fast idle linkage holds the throttle plates above idle, add jumper wire to the choke stove.

When choke stove gets to operating temperature, open the choke plate just past all the way open, and then, reverse until the plate is just at the full open position. Tighten the choke stove, take the throttle holder out of the linkage, reactivate the ignition system, done.

The choke will close as the stove cools off, and vacuum in the choke pull off will hold the choke, plate and fast idle linkage open as long as the engine runs past full heat open. This means if the choke partially closes on a cooling off engine, the vacuum in the pull off will make sure the choke does not fully close and stall the engine. When cold, the stove overcomes the vacuum in the pull off, and the choke helps cold engine start.

As I said, I apologize if what I misinformed caused any issues, it wasn't my intention.
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post #30 of 39 (permalink) Old Feb 20th, 20, 4:51 AM
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Re: Electric Choke

That's the first mistake you've ever made, right Dave?
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