EOIC Hyd Valve Adj - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 15th, 20, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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EOIC Hyd Valve Adj

Am I correct in stating (for example) exhaust valve does not have to be at 100 % open to adjust paired intake, merely clearly on opening ramp and same for adjusting exhaust, that is intake should be clearly on its’ way to opening ?

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post #2 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 15th, 20, 2:30 PM
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Re: EOIC Hyd Valve Adj

Exhaust Opening - - - Intake Closing

Exhaust valve just starts to open ...... adjust the intake.

Intake valve opens all the way and then closes about half way ....... adjust the exhaust.
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post #3 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 15th, 20, 2:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillK View Post
Exhaust Opening - - - Intake Closing

Exhaust valve just starts to open ...... adjust the intake.

Intake valve opens all the way and then closes about half way ....... adjust the exhaust.
Thanks !
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post #4 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 15th, 20, 3:58 PM
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Re: EOIC Hyd Valve Adj

Comp is the E-O, I-C I use, exhaust lifter just starts to lift, set intake, intake just fully closes, set exhaust.

Works fine on any cam ever made, and, for decades, I have been saying to get an empty block with cam bearings in place, two lifters and any cam for that engine, and do the positioning, and LOOK at the other cam lobe through the opening of the cam area above the crankshaft area. Proves it straight off in every engine I ever looked at.
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post #5 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 15th, 20, 5:22 PM Thread Starter
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Dave Ray,

Thanks

See, you don’t get an argument EVERY time you post. 😁
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post #6 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 16th, 20, 5:12 PM
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Re: EOIC Hyd Valve Adj

It's only from a very small handful, but, NOBODY needs it, and it seems to come from those that only want to make trouble, with no reasoning behind it. It is far past any peace with it, so, I will only post when I can help without feedback trouble. I back up what I post, and when it, and the endless backups forced on not only me, but everybody else come, I get more than tired of it. I am not here to advertize, although I have been accused of that, not here to bolster an ego I do not have, all I am here for is to help, and that handful do just the opposite, they mostly help nobody. I shouldn't be forced to justify every word I write.
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post #7 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 16th, 20, 5:20 PM
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Re: EOIC Hyd Valve Adj

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Ray View Post
It's only from a very small handful, but, NOBODY needs it

Dave,

Some people have nothing better to do than argue. I have learned to just ignore them. I for one would hate to lose your knowledge because of some people wanting to act like children.

I say just keep posting accurate information like you always do and just ignore the babies.

Bill

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post #8 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 16th, 20, 5:41 PM
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Re: EOIC Hyd Valve Adj

It really helps to see where to turn the engine over and see exactly where the rocker need to be on a BBC with the intake off as you car see the cam and lifters. That's how I learned where to put them at to set the intake and exhaust lash.
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post #9 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 16th, 20, 6:52 PM Thread Starter
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It really helps to see where to turn the engine over and see exactly where the rocker need to be on a BBC with the intake off as you car see the cam and lifters. That's how I learned where to put them at to set the intake and exhaust lash.
This ^^^^ would help. Porcupine heads makes it a little harder to see what’s happening.
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post #10 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 20, 2:31 PM Thread Starter
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Finished up, smooth idle, same vacuum as before but a skip sensation on light acceleration.

I loosened each rocker till I could move vertically, snugged up about an eighth each , then added half a turn down. No backfire. Power seems down, but I haven’t really punched it.

Any thoughts?
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post #11 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 20, 3:43 PM
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Re: EOIC Hyd Valve Adj

I got an engine that had a roller cam in it No idea what brand lifters..I changed the cam profile to what I wanted and reused the lifters.
All I knew is they are hydraulic.
I set them 3/4 turn.. ran ok with a lot of lope.. few days of driving it It felt weak. I ran the lifters while running giving them 1/2 turn and they did not like that.. seemed to get rough on idle and not clear up..I backed them off to 1/4 turn.. seemed better.
I later ran them at 0 just to the point clacking went away. It made a huge difference in power and it got much smoother.
Maybe these were some lifters that liked 0 lash (Anti Pump ups).

That is not the only engine that I loosened lash on and have it run better.

If you did not change anything else but lash then.

Different fuel or air filter.. change to a different oil or weight.
Did your buddy stick 200 lbs of lead in the trunk when you were not looking.

Carb working well. Did the timing change on you.
All things i would look at.
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post #12 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 20, 4:00 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Jeff,

I think you hit it on the money. Took my half turns down and backed off an eight. Total now three eights down. Power restored.

Only ? now is should I back off another eighth for a total of one half down ?

Parts list from builder quotes Elgin 1215, $124.95. Sounds cheap but that was in 2010. Rockers are marked CompCams.

No race car here, but I hate leaving HP on the table.

For anyone else contemplating checking valves, EOIC is super easy with starter push button 👍
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post #13 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 20, 5:29 PM
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Re: EOIC Hyd Valve Adj

Valve system preload is extremely important, even with hydraulic lifters, which are not all created equal. It all depends on the valving and oil weight for the push rod button to place the valve in an advantageous place in the lifter.

Some lifters work best at a quarter turn, others work best at a full turn, and anywhere in between. There were even some flat tapet racing hydraulic lifters that were set up to use .002 clearances, like a solid lifter, to get them to not pump up at higher rpm's from reactions to racing oil pressures in the system.

I like setting the valve trains up with the intake manifold off the engine, so I can see the push rod button in the lifter when the valve train gets to zero clearance, easier to set the thing up that way, no issues, problems.
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post #14 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 20, 5:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Dave,

I might try 1/4 turn.

Found out I have either Delphi or Eaton lifters
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post #15 of 30 (permalink) Old Feb 17th, 20, 6:18 PM Thread Starter
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This is from a HOT ROD on line article........

. Make sure the pushrod is seated in its pocket on the arm and tighten down the nut slowly until you can no longer move the arm or turn the push rod. This is zero-lash. Tighten the nut 1/8- to 1/4-turn more, then tighten both the nut and poly-lock with an Allen wrench another 1/8- to 1/4-turn at the same time. Do this to all the intake side rockers. To adjust the exhaust sides, again go in the firing order, but allow the intake valves to close 1/2 to 3/4 of the way before you adjust the exhaust valve.


Article clearly says “tighten till push rod won’t spin”.

Yeah or nay. ???
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