ATK 383 Updated - I jinxed myself - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 19, 1:40 PM Thread Starter
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ATK 383 Updated - I jinxed myself

I just posted an update on my new 383 from ATK about my happiness and satisfaction of the motor and jinxed myself. I’ve noticed about a quarter size oil spot in my garage the past couple weeks. I thought it was just the driver side valve cover and replaced the gasket because it was leaking a little bit from there. Yesterday, I noticed the spot was still there and saw the oil leak was coming from the rear of the oil pan. I torqued the oil pan bolts and they were a little loose. I checked this morning and the oil spot is there again. I use pieces of cardboard to make sure the spots are fresh. I don’t believe it’s the rear main seal. I’m very confident it’s the oil pan. I’m barely losing any oil on the dipstick.

Any recommendations on how to stop this leak without pulling the motor or replacing the brand new gasket it came with?

Are break in oils more susceptible to leaking?

Should I just keep it filled up until the break in period is over and hope that a regular conventional oil may help swell the gasket like the high mileage oils claim to do?

Any thoughts or recommendations are greatly appreciated! Thanks!
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 19, 1:48 PM
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Re: ATK 383 Updated - I jinxed myself

No, leaks don't fix themselves by changing oil. I would call ATK and see how they want you to proceed. Don't risk your warranty.

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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 19, 1:49 PM
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Re: ATK 383 Updated - I jinxed myself

are you using synthetic oils?

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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 19, 1:53 PM Thread Starter
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I’m using their recommendation of Joe Gibbs BR40 break in oil. I have a little over 100 miles on it.

I didn’t think a regular oil would solve this issue, but was wishfully thinking.

Thanks!
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 19, 2:32 PM
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Re: ATK 383 Updated - I jinxed myself

JD,
I would put some die in the oil and run it for a while longer. Then use a UV light to make sure where it is coming from. Clean oil in a new engine can travel a long distance but always seems to end up near the back. Is there a bolt in the hole in the front of the block that goes to the fuel pump pushrod ?
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 19, 3:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillK View Post
JD,
I would put some die in the oil and run it for a while longer. Then use a UV light to make sure where it is coming from. Clean oil in a new engine can travel a long distance but always seems to end up near the back. Is there a bolt in the hole in the front of the block that goes to the fuel pump pushrod ?
Yes, I have the ground from my alternator attached right at that spot. The oil is very clean, so I’ve been feeling for it with my bare hands. I can see exactly where it’s coming from and it’s right at the back of the oil pan where it meets the rear main seal. Before I put the motor in, I considered replacing the pan and gasket with higher quality ones since it was already out, so I wouldn’t have to worry about it down the road. Hindsight’s always 20/20, they say!
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 19, 3:42 PM
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Re: ATK 383 Updated - I jinxed myself

It's a brand new crate motor. You shouldn't have to change....anything.

Good luck. Oil leaks.....are not fun.

BTW: Pre-1987 or post 1986 block?
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 19, 3:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue_69_malibu View Post
It's a brand new crate motor. You shouldn't have to change....anything.

Good luck. Oil leaks.....are not fun.

BTW: Pre-1987 or post 1986 block?
I agree 100%. I shouldn’t have to deal with leaks on a brand new motor. I don’t want to have to do all of the work to replace the gasket. Since I installed the motor myself, I think the most I would get from ATK is a replacement gasket.

It’s a post 86 block.

Thanks!
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 19, 3:58 PM
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Re: ATK 383 Updated - I jinxed myself

You think. Contact them and you'll know.

Then we can help you make a good plan.
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 19, 4:06 PM
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Re: ATK 383 Updated - I jinxed myself

Quote:
Originally Posted by JerseyDevil5 View Post

Itís a post 86 block.

I am surprised. Those gaskets are typically pretty bulletproof

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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 19, 4:42 PM Thread Starter
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It may just be me, but shouldn’t the oil pan/gasket cover a little more under the real main seal? Is everyone able to see where it’s leaking at? I know the pictures aren’t the best.
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 19, 4:47 PM
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Re: ATK 383 Updated - I jinxed myself

Just curious - are you missing a nut on that torque converter bolt in the third picture??

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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 19, 4:50 PM Thread Starter
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Here are a few more. It seems like the lip of the pan is bent inwards and not covering the full surface that it should. I could be completely wrong though. What does everyone think? This is 100% where the leak is coming from.
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 19, 5:21 PM
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Re: ATK 383 Updated - I jinxed myself

Unless I am totally out of it . . . . that is not a late model block. That is a pre 1986 two pc rear main seal block. At least it sure looks like it from the pictures. I can see the flange on the crankshaft that the flexplate bolts to.

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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 19, 5:23 PM
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Re: ATK 383 Updated - I jinxed myself

I might be wrong that might be the seal holder I am looking at.

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