Correct Oil? - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 19, 3:45 PM Thread Starter
Matt
 
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Correct Oil?

Hello All,


I found the following block number for my Chevelle: 14088548


From www.enginelabs.com I decoded the following: 14088548 Small Block V8 1986-1988 350, 2 bolt or 4 bolt


When I changed the oil I put in Valvoline 'High Milage' 10w30 and a bottle of zinc engine additive.



I was talking with a friend who has been wrenching on old/classics for a while and he thinks I used the wrong oil. He recommends straight 30W engine oil with the zinc additive.


I thought since this was a 'newer', post 1975 engine, that the 10x30 would work best.



Thoughts/advice?


v/r,
Matt



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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 19, 4:54 PM
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Jeff
 
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Re: Correct Oil?

I think your fine with the valvoline hi mileage 10/30, as long as youíre in the ballpark of 10-20 psi of oil pressure at hot idle. Iím assuming this is a stock oem motor with flat tappet cam?

Jeff

64 El Camino Pro street, 496, T-400, 9" 3.73


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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 19, 5:20 PM
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Eric
 
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Re: Correct Oil?

I think you should no use engine oil and add a zinc additive. Why not just use an oil that has the zinc included with the friction package? Valvoline VR1 for example (available at most auto parts stores), is the oil you need and 10w30 is fine for your application. There are others that will work just as well as others will chime in with their preference.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 19, 5:53 PM
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Jim
 
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Re: Correct Oil?

San Diego? Nice engine-friendly climate. I think that an 86 - 88 year model Chevy V-8 equipped automobile owners manual would specify 10-30. Single grade oils are obsolescent for cars, I use 30 wt in my lawn mower. Zinc additive to the oil? You are paying good money for oil that has the additives needed to perform to spec, whether its SF for a chevy V-8 back in the 60's or whatever it is today. By the way, modern oils are backward compatible. Zinc is a metal. Zinc atoms are combined with other atoms to create a chemical compound. There are other chemical compounds that do the job in modern oil formulations that the zinc-containing compounds in the additives of the day did before. Forget the single grade and zinc additives. High-mileage? The marketing people needed another means of hype, so they came up with High-Mileage. The chemists made up a seal-softener just in case your "hi-miles" engine is suffering from hardening of the arteries...I mean oil seals. Well, unintended consequences can mean damaged seals and oil leaks. "Seal Job in a bottle"? Good luck. Lose the high-mileage too.
Just another $0.02 p.s. If you have a real honest-to-goodness race engine, you might need a "racing oil", but I'd wager that you don't have.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 19, 7:27 PM
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Re: Correct Oil?

For your climate area 15-40 VR RACING OIL by Valvoline would be a better choice. But I would go ahead and run what you have until the next oil change. Use Wix filters not the Fram joke of a filter.

JoeGibb racing oil is another top performer.

In my opinion you want the high zinc oils to protect that flat tappet cam.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 19, 9:17 PM
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Re: Correct Oil?

I haven't searchd this, and others here with a lot more knowledge can correct me, but isn't the late 80's about when GM started putting roller cams in the SBC? He said it was an 86-88 motor. To be safe I would use an oil with high ZDDP until I was sure what I had because it isn't going to hurt running it in a motor w/o converters, but you may have a roller in your motor and not need to worry about the zinc levels.

People here will help you figure out what you have, with a little more information from you.

Gary

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 19, 10:29 PM
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Re: Correct Oil?

Isn't 86 and up sbc with bolt through VC a roller cam/lifter engine? if not I like Valvoline VR1, watch Amazon and you can find it on sale some times


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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 19, 10:51 PM
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Re: Correct Oil?

Quote:
Originally Posted by shovelrick View Post
Isn't 86 and up sbc with bolt through VC a roller cam/lifter engine? if not I like Valvoline VR1, watch Amazon and you can find it on sale some times
Some of them, not all. His is not.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old Jul 7th, 19, 11:10 PM
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Re: Correct Oil?

10W30 oil is fine, if it isn't a fresh rebuild, no zinc additive needed. I started a fresh rebuild on Mobil 1 at the advice of the machine shop that did the work, flat tappet cam and all.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old Jul 8th, 19, 7:23 AM
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Re: Correct Oil?

I have been using Mobil 1 5w30 for years in four different flat tappet engines without any issues. One was a Pontiac 462 with a big cam and heavy springs, never used any additives.

Sam's Club sells the Mobil 1 5W30 fairly cheap..

I also only use Wix oil filters.. Lots of times they are renamed as the parts stores brand..
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old Jul 8th, 19, 8:55 AM
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Re: Correct Oil?

Napa Gold is also a Wix filter


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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old Jul 8th, 19, 10:54 AM
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Re: Correct Oil?

Mobil 1 - 15w50 has much more zinc additive for flat tappet motors. Zinc level is 1300, Phosphorus 1200. This is the only Mobil 1 synthetic oil designed for older motors that need zinc. It specifically says for "flat tappet motors". I have used it in my Chevelle and old Flat Tappet Land Cruiser for years. You can get it at Walmart for a good price for 5 quart jug.

Note: I live in a hot climate, so, 15w50 is a fine weight oil for me.

Harry
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old Jul 8th, 19, 5:29 PM
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Harry
 
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Re: Correct Oil?

Quote:
Originally Posted by hjdca View Post
Mobil 1 - 15w50 has much more zinc additive for flat tappet motors. Zinc level is 1300, Phosphorus 1200. This is the only Mobil 1 synthetic oil designed for older motors that need zinc. It specifically says for "flat tappet motors". I have used it in my Chevelle and old Flat Tappet Land Cruiser for years. You can get it at Walmart for a good price for 5 quart jug.

Note: I live in a hot climate, so, 15w50 is a fine weight oil for me.
Here is the link to Mobil 1 specs - 15w50 has the zinc --

https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us...pecs-guide.pdf

Harry
1970 Chevelle SS396 (408), Fathom Blue,
Original Block & Forged Crank, KB Pistons, Edelbrock 6045 Heads,Comp Cam 292H, March Serpentine, RPM AirGap,750HP,100hp Nitrous
A/F Wideband,Tremec TKO 600, 12 bolt,
30 spline Moser Axles, Richmond 3:73's, Hotchkis control arms, swaybars, springs, Wilwood 12" rotors D/S, 4 piston calipers
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old Jul 8th, 19, 9:11 PM
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Re: Correct Oil?

I am going to add that unless you know the engine has never been rebuilt or modified in any way, that number does not mean a thing other than it is a 4" bore 1 piece rear main seal block. You are probably safe with what you used but if the engine originally was in a car it might be a roller cam and there is no need for the zinc. No way to know without tearing it apart though.

I will agree with Eric that if you do need the zinc, use an oil that already has it rather than an additive. No need for 15W50, way to "thick" for that engine. 10W30 is fine. GM probably called for 5W30 in those years.

Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md


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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old Jul 8th, 19, 10:04 PM
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Eric
 
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Re: Correct Oil?

14088548 casting number is not a roller motor.

Your just jealous because you can't hear the voices!

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