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post #136 of 148 (permalink) Old May 13th, 19, 11:49 PM
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Re: Overheating sbc

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Originally Posted by Mrfresh352 View Post
The water pump is a jegs long. Iím going to replace it with the kooler since I read those are really good. Got a new hose that dose the droop and I check the rad and all my fins are pushing out fluid, when I did the pour from the top hose.

That's good news and pretty much what I expected since your temps drop to normal after the initial run to 240 after start up.

I don't think you need a new pump if the impeller is not damaged and firmly attached to the shaft. But it won't hurt and will give you peace of mind with just a little lighter wallet. If you have to buy gaskets for the pump reassembly, you're part way there anyways.

My bet is still on the thermostat. Yeah, I know, 2 previously new ones. When you install it, the pointy end points to the sky.

It wouldn't hurt to blow some water through the block while the pump is off. Just run the garden hose to the thermostat housing without the thermostat in place. Just to see if anymore gunk decides it wants to leave the block.

I'll be standing by to hear of your good results. There's a few other things that could cause this, but you pretty much ruled them out with the compression test that you did. Hopefully you'll be on the road and won't have to worry about any more issues from your cooling system.
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post #137 of 148 (permalink) Old May 14th, 19, 2:42 PM Thread Starter
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@DUTCH MAX HEADWORK s

I also ordered a new 180 high flow thermostat so I cover all my basics. If this isn’t it then my block has to have a blown head gasket. I didn’t do a compression test, I only did a coolant pressure test so. We shall see. Oh and I got a new timing light so I can get the other half of my timing dialed in and let you guys know those numbers lol
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post #138 of 148 (permalink) Old May 15th, 19, 11:43 PM
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Re: Overheating sbc

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Originally Posted by Mrfresh352 View Post
@DUTCH MAX HEADWORK s

I also ordered a new 180 high flow thermostat so I cover all my basics. If this isnít it then my block has to have a blown head gasket. I didnít do a compression test, I only did a coolant pressure test so. We shall see. Oh and I got a new timing light so I can get the other half of my timing dialed in and let you guys know those numbers lol
When I said compression test I meant the coolant pressure test. Sorry my mistake. Usually the coolant pressure test will reveal a blown head gasket.

You didn't say that you were loosing coolant or pushing coolant out and having to refill the radiator. This might indicate a blown head gasket. There are 2 other test you can do with your coolant pressure tester. Most come with an adapter so you can test your radiator cap. You can pump it up and check to see that it releases pressure at the specified point. You can also hook up your tester to the radiator and start the car. Look for a rapid buildup of pressure. That would indicate a blown head gasket. A cooling system will build pressure slowly if functioning properly. So be careful and shut down if pressure builds beyond 16 psi. You don't want to blow anything out.

Just so you know, the auto parts store sells a test kit that will show if you have a blown head gasket. It will detect the presence of combustion gasses in the coolant. I think they are about $15.00. Save your dough, I don't think you'll need one.
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post #139 of 148 (permalink) Old May 21st, 19, 9:48 AM Thread Starter
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@DUTCH MAX HEADWORK

I think I’ve fixed it!! Went out of town over the weekend and didnt get to play much but last week I turned it on, took some time to warm up It went to 220 for a bit but cooled down a lot faster to 185 and held it for a good 20mins.

I’ll try again this week hopefully all the air is purged and I doesn’t go higher anymore. I’m not loosing any Coolant. And the test I did was at the radiator cap. Although I didn’t do the test with the car on I did it with the car off and held pressure for the recommend time it requested.
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post #140 of 148 (permalink) Old May 21st, 19, 10:24 AM
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Not to be negative, but should heat up quick and never reach 220 unless you’re towing a motor home uphill in 100 degree weather !
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post #141 of 148 (permalink) Old May 21st, 19, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reelysalty View Post
Not to be negative, but should heat up quick and never reach 220 unless you’re towing a motor home uphill in 100 degree weather !
I have that feeling too but I didn’t want to jump the gun on judgement until I give it one more shot.
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post #142 of 148 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 19, 12:59 AM
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Re: Overheating sbc

I wish you had better news.

Run it a few cycles and see if it improves. Check your coolant at the radiator cap when cold before you start it. At this point all is new and you should not have the temp spiking issue. I would probably try to hook up the heater core if it''s still good or run a bypass hose from the top of the pump to the fitting on the right front side of the manifold(looks like it has a red top on it). You've done everything else that I can think of.

Other than that, I'm stumped. Cruise it around and see how it does. 220 isn't going to kill anything, but it's still not right.
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post #143 of 148 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 19, 3:19 AM
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Re: Overheating sbc

Take a sheet of cardboard and see if it will stop the fan from turning after you are up to temp if it stops the fan the clutch is most likely the problem and when the motor slows down in gear the clutch begins to work.

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post #144 of 148 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 19, 8:29 PM
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Re: Overheating sbc

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Originally Posted by Mrfresh352 View Post
@DUTCH MAX HEADWORK s

I also ordered a new 180 high flow thermostat so I cover all my basics. If this isnít it then my block has to have a blown head gasket. I didnít do a compression test, I only did a coolant pressure test so. We shall see. Oh and I got a new timing light so I can get the other half of my timing dialed in and let you guys know those numbers lol
A Thermostat usually never fully opens until 15 to 20 Degrees above it's Rating

I have a 160* Thermostat in my Engine for cool/mild weather
and when it gets Hot I run with NO Thermostat if she gets/starts to go above 190*+

Also running the Right Coolant mixture of Anti Freeze & Water is important
too much AntiFreeze and the Engine will run Hotter
too much Water and the Water Pump is not Lubricated enough

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post #145 of 148 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 19, 8:51 PM
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Re: Overheating sbc

I have cooked several on the stove to test before putting them in and they all open fully with +/- 5 degrees of the rating.
I have seen the thermostat put in upside down more often than anything else.
I had a Ford truck give me fits by running hot at idle and good at speed when I finally tracked it to the fan clutch not spinning the fan fast enough.
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"A Nation of Sheep will beget a Government of Wolves." Edward R. Murrow
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post #146 of 148 (permalink) Old May 26th, 19, 2:49 PM Thread Starter
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We are in there like swim wear fellas I added a hose to connect the water pump to the intake and it never got hotter than 185. thanks for all the help.
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post #147 of 148 (permalink) Old May 26th, 19, 3:11 PM
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Re: Overheating sbc

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrfresh352 View Post
We are in there like swim wear fellas I added a hose to connect the water pump to the intake and it never got hotter than 185. thanks for all the help.
That's good news.
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post #148 of 148 (permalink) Old May 27th, 19, 1:38 AM
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Re: Overheating sbc

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Originally Posted by Gtogeoff View Post
If you have an adj vac adv, you need to adjust the Allen key fully CW. If you don't have an adj VA unit, you need to get one [ Crane is best ] & adjust as above.
Wow so you got it working without one of the magic Crane cans?

Nice you worked it out!
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