Clutch problem non-Chevelle - Chevelle Tech
Misc (NON CHEVELLE AUTOMOTIVE TECH) This section is for the Non-Chevelle Related automotive questions/answers or discussion.

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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Sep 15th, 19, 3:15 PM Thread Starter
coe
Ron
 
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Clutch problem non-Chevelle

Ok guys, this one really has me stumped. Vehicle is a 2007 Jeep Liberty, 3.7L with a 6-speed manual transmission. The throw-out bearing blew apart and while I had the trans out, I replaced the throw-out bearing, clutch, and pressure plate. I forgot to order a new pilot bearing but since this happened the beginning of the week when Dorian passed through, I couldn't get the part and my son needed his car for work. I did my best to inspect the bearing and everything seemed fine. Checked the clutch and pressure plate against the old ones before replacing and they seemed to match up perfectly. Even double checked the part numbers to make sure I got the correct parts.

After putting everything back together there was an issue. I could only shift through a couple of gears before it would stop working. Figured maybe the hydraulic clutch assembly was bad and was slowly leaking down, so I ordered a new master cylinder/slave cylinder assembly. Installed that this weekend (bled the system as instructed) and now the transmission won't go into gear at all. It will go into gear as long as the engine is off, but once it is running, no luck.

I have a bore scope so I drilled a small whole (5.5 mm) in the side of the bell-housing (there is no inspection access) and was able to observe the clutch movement. Everything looks fine. I can see the fork moving and the clutch depressing. Did this both with the engine off and with it running. Looks like they are moving the same distance. Called a friend who works for a dealership and does a fair amount of manual trans work. His only suggestion that possibly the crank thrust bearing was bad and depressing the pedal was causing the crank to walk. He said it was a long shot, but I checked anyway. Doesn't appear to be any movement.

I am totally stumped! Any suggestions?

~Ron
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Sep 15th, 19, 3:20 PM
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Re: Clutch problem non-Chevelle

Reminds me of the first time I replaced a transmission and had it through the clutch plate but not into the pilot bearing and the weight of the transmission hanging down bent the clutch plate.

Brother in-law put the clutch plate onto the transmission shaft and gave it a spin to find it was warped.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Sep 15th, 19, 8:29 PM
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Re: Clutch problem non-Chevelle

youve still got air in the system,clutch adjustment is of or it doesnt match oem specs.

1970 ls-5 numbers matching
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 19, 12:59 AM
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Re: Clutch problem non-Chevelle

How did you bleed the clutch & slave cylinder ? If there's air in there the trans will shift fine just sitting there engine off but won't shift with it running.The clutch may be moving but maybe not moving far enough to disengage.Try bleeding it again it's easy and cheap.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 19, 1:38 AM
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Re: Clutch problem non-Chevelle

It's not going into gear because the input shaft and disc are still spinning while the pedal is fully depressed.

Dean noted one reason. The disc marcel could be bent by hanging the weight of the trans on it during installation. If you needed to take a breather and let the trans hang instead of sliding it in fully in one movement this could be the issue.

Bellhousing alignment could cause this. Check to make sure no wire looms got stuck between the housing and engine.

A damaged pilot bearing could cause this if it grabs the input shaft and causes it to turn even with the clutch depressed.

Basically, you can't get the trans in gear because the input shaft of the trans is turning when it should be stopped.

It sounds like you are not getting enough travel out of the slave cylinder.

For bleeding, you should hold the slave cylinder in a position that locates the breather upwards. If the breather is down when installed, it can still trap air in the slave cylinder.

Bleeding:
Attach some 3/16 ID clear plastic tubing to the slave bleeder valve and route the other end to a waste container. Clear tubing lets you see the bubbles.

Insert the hydraulic line into the slave cylinder and press the retainer clip.

Hold the Slave Cylinder with the bleeder pointed up -- It will trap air in the normal position, so it must be tipped to bleed air.

Over-fill the brake/clutch reservoir, open the bleeder valve (1/2 turn CCW), and let it gravity bleed. Pump the slave push rod by hand (1/4" inch is all it takes) a few times as the fluid/air exits the bleeder hose, and keep re-filling the reservoir with brake fluid. After the reservoir level is below the baffle, the only part that will decrease level is on the driver's side of the reservoir. With this method there is no need for someone to pump the clutch and alternately open/close the bleeder valve. When there are no more bubbles seen when pumping the slave push rod, let the reservoir drain to the full level mark (at the height of the baffle) and close the bleeder valve.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 19, 8:25 AM Thread Starter
coe
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Re: Clutch problem non-Chevelle

Thanks for the suggestions. Going to try and bleed the system again before pulling the trans. There is no bleeder screw...followed this procedure (which also came as a printed instruction sheet with the new cylinder)
https://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowl...rticle-117.htm
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 19, 8:32 AM
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Re: Clutch problem non-Chevelle

Quote:
Originally Posted by coe View Post
Thanks for the suggestions. Going to try and bleed the system again before pulling the trans. There is no bleeder screw...followed this procedure (which also came as a printed instruction sheet with the new cylinder)
https://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowl...rticle-117.htm
Before you pull the trans, go give your left leg a work out. Start pumping the pedal, then wait a minute and pump again. Give it a couple of these cycles and see if anything gets better . Some slaves have a plastic knob on top that acts as a bleeder. Others have no type of bleeder and are sold as a complete enclosed unit that requires no bleeding.
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