Disc brake conversion - Page 2 - Chevelle Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions & more.

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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old Apr 30th, 16, 11:13 AM
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jeff
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: yukon ok.
Posts: 4,792
Re: Disc brake conversion

Jack Action the issue I have with this quote.
Well-maintained drum brakes can do the job just as well as disc brakes. The 9½" might be limited size-wise, but with hi-performance shoes, they're as good as most disc set-up.


I said that back 30 years ago when you got shoes that were made with good steel backing and had good friction surface area that matched the curvature of the drum.

When I got my 57 chevy 3 years ago I got new spring kits and new wheel cylinders and lines..
Then i began changing shoes. I got rained out during changing them and left the old shoes on the front passenger side.

The car stopped worse after the shoe change.. Took forever to slow it.
And it pulled hard to the right as the right front shoe was the old one with perfect wear pattern.

I removed drums and looked at the new shoes.. there were just small sploched spaces on the shoes that were contacting the drum.. I had the drums turned and they were all almost perfect as they were.. That did not fix the issue.

I gave them a month of everyday driving and the shoes showed contact in the middle as if the ends were flexing away from the drum.

I got a different brand of shoes quite expensive as i was getting the best I thought. From Orielly.
Same situation.. not contacting ... and there was not a primary or secondary shoe.. they were all the same.
WTF really!
My son's shoes that we got for his 1983 cellica 4 years ago were the same no primary and those grabbed and locked up the rear as they were binding without a primary shoe.

I ground down the material on the front shoes and this created a leading edge and now it worked.

I have ZERO faith in what is available for brake drum shoes for our old cars and this forced me to go disc in front.

I tried 3 different shoes for the 57 and all were junk.
If you have a manufacturer that makes shoes that fit and are true and do not flex please share.

I will get some for the back of my 57. as my brakes now do not have a proportioning valve and the back ones will not lock up at all unless you bear down on them when it first rains on the pavement.

Brake shoes today are on my bad list along with the crappy V belts they pawn off on us today..sorry about the rant.

But i drive my cars and They pull trailers with heavy loads on them.
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old Apr 30th, 16, 7:11 PM
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Denny
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Québec, Canada
Posts: 1,307
Re: Disc brake conversion

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff swisher View Post
I removed drums and looked at the new shoes.. there were just small sploched spaces on the shoes that were contacting the drum.. I had the drums turned and they were all almost perfect as they were.. That did not fix the issue.

I gave them a month of everyday driving and the shoes showed contact in the middle as if the ends were flexing away from the drum.

I got a different brand of shoes quite expensive as i was getting the best I thought. From Orielly.
Same situation.. not contacting ... and there was not a primary or secondary shoe.. they were all the same.
WTF really!
My son's shoes that we got for his 1983 cellica 4 years ago were the same no primary and those grabbed and locked up the rear as they were binding without a primary shoe.

I ground down the material on the front shoes and this created a leading edge and now it worked.
You seem to have a problem with shoes that need arcing:

Quote:
Purpose:
The purpose of Arcing the brake shoes to match the brake drums is to maximize the performance of the brake assembly. It is also very much safety related as without this operation, the process of “wearing in” the shoes to match the drums may require thousands of miles of driving. During this break-in process the performance of the brakes are limited. Additionally, during that break-in process, brakes go out of adjustment much more frequently requiring additional attention and adjustments.

This is not necessarily the shoe manufacturer's fault. When you have a turned drum, its radius has increased, but the new shoes might be turned for the original diameter of the drum, thus too small and forming a contact at the center of the shoe only (until it wears in, that is). The small contact area might even cause overheating of the brake shoe that can glazed them (and then they will never perform well). Back in the days, local garages could have an arcing machine to fit each shoe set to its drum:


What I was referring to in my earlier post was shoes with lining that can withstand more heat than normal over-the-counter brake shoes (like hi-performance brake pads for disc brakes). The only source I know for these brake shoes for muscle cars (including 57 Chevy!) is here:

musclecarbrakes

They cost a lot, but they make a real, noticeable, difference. They actually work better as they heat up. You can read about a test done by Hot Rod magazine a few years back here:

1966 Buick GS Drum Brake System Rebuild - Car Craft Magazine


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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old May 1st, 16, 12:22 AM
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Tony G
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: San Diego, CA
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Re: Disc brake conversion

Quote:
Originally Posted by 69bu View Post
I'm finally getting around to upgrading my braking system. The car is still running the original manual drum set-up. It has reached the point where the car just has too much power for the drum brake set-up and is honestly a little scary if you have to stop quickly. I am looking at power disc kits from The Right Stuff. Looking for recommendations as to if I should just do the fronts or if I should go to 4 wheel discs. The car is primarily a street car but will eventually see some track time.

Another quick question, the car has a Quick Performance 9" rear. Any ideas if these have the big bearings or the small ones? Makes a difference on what parts I order if I decide to do the rears.

Thanks.
I have a '64SS. I just converted to Right stuff front disc with their booster and master cylinder kit. I decided to go with Master Power Brakes for the rears and went to an 11" drum kit. The rear drum kit is a bolt in deal and fits without any fab work or any E cable changes. I hear the larger 11" drums are as effective as discs without the hassle. Just a thought. Good luck.

'64 SS Coupe, 4 spd Muncie M-20, 12 bolt 3:42, 350sb 9.75:1, Edelbrock RPM top kit with roller cam, EB 600cfm carb.
Weekend driver....
Weekends need to be 4 days long every week.....
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old May 1st, 16, 12:40 PM
rkd
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Ron
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Beaufort SC
Posts: 4,892
Re: Disc brake conversion

My 66 came with all four manual drum brakes. I upgraded to front discs with a kit from Ground Up, and stayed manual. It fit, was easy to install and had all the small parts needed. Also got all new hoses and hard lines for the whole car, and new rear wheel cylinders. I also searched and read all of the posts and stickies here several times prior to buying stuff.

It works great, and will lock all four nice and straight. Did the kit so I did not have to tinker or adjust proportioning valves, etc or otherwise rig up stuff. I did shorten and reflare two lines to the mc because of no booster. Could have left the extra length if I could not make flares. Bleeding took several attempts over a week, but was successful. Going with rear discs also meant some changes to the ebrake cable and system I did not want to deal with.

This is for street use, but worked at the et the car did or will ever run. Simple, effective and easy to maintain. One day I will replace the mismatched rear drums with new ones.

66 Malibu Coupe, home rebuilt 350. Took me 39 years to get her!
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