Re: how to get rid of wheel hop
I replaced the lower bushings, with new rubber bushings. Replaced the upper control arms with UMI adjustable uppers, new poly bushings in the diff, roto-joints at the frame. I did not adjust pinion angle when I installed them, set the arms to stock length. Wanted to see what the new parts would do. I was tempted to just replace the bushings bit didn't want to have to pull the upper arms again if that didn't do it. I have stock boxed lowers with anti-sway bar.
Well I still had some wheel hop. Don't know how I missed it first time under there but someone had placed spacers under the rear springs. I removed them and wheel hop is gone.
As mentioned lowering the rearend changes pinion angle. It also changes the angle of the upper arms. Changing pinion angle can do this as well. If the upper arms are angled down from frame to axle you're likely to get wheel hop. They need to be level or angled up.
Under launch you get some axle wrap, axle rotates opposite direction of tires. New bushings can help because they won't compress as much and limit axle wrap. If the upper arms angle down as the axle wraps the arms come up, allowing more wrap. Tires grab, rear squats and arms start to angle up which pulls the axle back towards normal position. Tires spin, axle unwraps, arms go down, tires grab, cycle repeats. If the arms are level or up axle wrap is limited. As the rear squats the control arms pull the axle forward, limiting the amount of wrap. Think of the arc the control arm to diff mount points go through under those conditions.
That's why lowering the rear can help with wheel hop. Yes it changes pinion angle but it's the change in the angle of the upper arms that does it.
70 Chevelle SS396(454), M20, 3.73
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