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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: San Ramon,CA
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I want to do a 13" brake conversion on my 71 Elky.I have reviewed several posts and all the info I can find. I tried to open the info on David Pozzi's website, but each time I click on the 13" conversion link it states "page not found". The only info I can find is one where the rotors are cut off a hub to make an appropriate hub. I dont have a milling machine. Are there any other hubs that will work on this conversion. Any way to get the info from Pozzi's page, or any other links? I am only interested in 13" brakes. Thanks, Scott!
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Dennis
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: in the dirt next to the apex
Posts: 3,090
Easy swap to do, my link has some info on page 3. Joe(72ssabody)has ALOT of info on this at his web site, he'll chime in soon.
Tech Team
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: San Ramon,CA
Posts: 437
90 camaro rotors are'nt 13" rotors are they? Once again, any hubs that wont need machining? 72SSAbody's page is the one I found that has to have the rotors cut off the hub.Thanks, Scott
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Brian
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Olive Branch, MS
Posts: 1,359
One thing to keep in mind on 11" or bigger rotor and calipers is the clearance at the wheel.
www.baer.com has a cool little download and printable template to check your current wheel to see if their brake system will fit with your wheel. I do believe in most all instances, they recomend a 18" wheel for clearance.
Best to check before you buy though.
www.baer.com has a cool little download and printable template to check your current wheel to see if their brake system will fit with your wheel. I do believe in most all instances, they recomend a 18" wheel for clearance.
Best to check before you buy though.
Tech Team
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: San Ramon,CA
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Planning to do 17 0r 18" wheels. Got my mind set on 13" brakes!
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Dennis
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: in the dirt next to the apex
Posts: 3,090
No, Camaro rotors from any year are NOT 13". The only GM to currently use 13" are the C5 Corvette and the C4 grand sport option. The cheapest way to get 13" brakes is to follow Joe's web page. It runs about 500.00 for everything.
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Clint
Join Date: Sep 1998
Location: Wichita Falls,Tx
Posts: 5,763
Most 17" wheels will clear a 13" rotor and C4 caliper. A C5 caliper is taller but still should clear most 17" wheels. After all,C5's came stock with 17" front wheels.
All ZR-1's came with 13" front rotors and so did all 95-96 C4's. Baer's Track kit utilizes ZR-1 rotors.
FWIW,I can easily run a 13.5" rotor with my PS Engineering 17" wheels.
All ZR-1's came with 13" front rotors and so did all 95-96 C4's. Baer's Track kit utilizes ZR-1 rotors.
FWIW,I can easily run a 13.5" rotor with my PS Engineering 17" wheels.
Clint Hooper
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Sold
Senior Tech Team
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: KC, MO
Posts: 1,859
Interesting post...
Are you wanting to do the swap with stock spindles or the tall spindles? David Pozzi's website uses stock spindles & C4 components.
Mine uses C5 components and tall spindles.
One of the downsides to the C5 swap is the hat height of the rotor. This shallow hat height can allow interference with your wheel spokes and the face of the C5 caliper. Choose your wheels carefully if you go down this route.
As for the hubs…
Don’t be afraid from this part of the swap. Third gen. F-body donor cars are everywhere and I do believe ’78-’88 G-body and S10 rotors have the same 2” “Joe” that is needed for the swap. Measure to confirm before you purchase.
RJ’s website shows very easy how-to on separating the rotor surface from the cast in hub. G3000 grey cast iron has some of the best lubricating properties out there (besides Teflon…obviously) and you can cut through them like butter with a simple drill bit. Once that is done the hard part is over. Take them to a machine shop then and have them chucked up in a lathe to turn down the rough edges and your done! Simple.
Let me know if you have anymore questions about the swap.
Joe
Are you wanting to do the swap with stock spindles or the tall spindles? David Pozzi's website uses stock spindles & C4 components.
Mine uses C5 components and tall spindles.
One of the downsides to the C5 swap is the hat height of the rotor. This shallow hat height can allow interference with your wheel spokes and the face of the C5 caliper. Choose your wheels carefully if you go down this route.
As for the hubs…
Don’t be afraid from this part of the swap. Third gen. F-body donor cars are everywhere and I do believe ’78-’88 G-body and S10 rotors have the same 2” “Joe” that is needed for the swap. Measure to confirm before you purchase.
RJ’s website shows very easy how-to on separating the rotor surface from the cast in hub. G3000 grey cast iron has some of the best lubricating properties out there (besides Teflon…obviously) and you can cut through them like butter with a simple drill bit. Once that is done the hard part is over. Take them to a machine shop then and have them chucked up in a lathe to turn down the rough edges and your done! Simple.
Let me know if you have anymore questions about the swap.
Joe
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Dennis
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: in the dirt next to the apex
Posts: 3,090
Hey Joe, was waiting for you to comment on this. I am almost ready to hang the brakes, just need a few more steering/suspension peices. Have a look at how its going so far- 
Total investment $466.68
Thanks Joe-
Total investment $466.68
Thanks Joe-
Team Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 1,493
Senior Tech Team
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: KC, MO
Posts: 1,859
Nice work Dennis!
Joe
Senior Tech Team
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Durham, NC
Posts: 2,288
I love my 'Joe' style C5 brakes 
You don't need any fancy equipment to make the hubs, I made mine using a hand-drill and an angle grinder. I don't even own a bench vice, I was holding the pieces with my feet out in the yard on a board! It was time-consuming, but I did both hubs in an afternoon. I drilled holes all the way around next to the hub, about 1.5" apart. Then I cut 'slots' between the holes with the cutoff wheel on my angle grinder...like Joe said that stuff cuts like butter. When I finally seperated the rotor from the hub, all that was left was grinding it down smooth where I had made the holes and cut on it. I painted the hubs with some Rustoleum, and here was the final result:
http://home.nc.rr.com/brengl/images/frontwhub.jpg
One note on wheels, I encountered clearance problems between the spokes and 'face' of the caliper with my VWW V40's, which have very thick spokes. I'm running 1/8th inch spacers to alevieate the problem.
You don't need any fancy equipment to make the hubs, I made mine using a hand-drill and an angle grinder. I don't even own a bench vice, I was holding the pieces with my feet out in the yard on a board! It was time-consuming, but I did both hubs in an afternoon. I drilled holes all the way around next to the hub, about 1.5" apart. Then I cut 'slots' between the holes with the cutoff wheel on my angle grinder...like Joe said that stuff cuts like butter. When I finally seperated the rotor from the hub, all that was left was grinding it down smooth where I had made the holes and cut on it. I painted the hubs with some Rustoleum, and here was the final result:
http://home.nc.rr.com/brengl/images/frontwhub.jpg
One note on wheels, I encountered clearance problems between the spokes and 'face' of the caliper with my VWW V40's, which have very thick spokes. I'm running 1/8th inch spacers to alevieate the problem.
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