Boxed rear control arms - Chevelle Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions & more.

 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Feb 25th, 03, 7:15 PM Thread Starter
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Kirk
 
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Okay, this is an oddball question. I removed boxed rear control arms from a 75 Monte. Got the sway bar too. The bar mounts on the BOTTOM of the arms...not to the side. Had planned to install the whole setup on my 68. BUT it turns out that the bar won't fit...apparently the spacing of the arms on the Monte is different than a Chevelle. Aaargghhh!

I've already installed poly bushings in the arms and boxed in the portions that weren't boxed in already (the original config just had them boxed where the bar mounted, not all the way along the length), so I don't want to ditch the arms. I was thinking that I could probably just drill the arms for a standard bar and be okay. I'm not familiar with exactly what the boxed arms look like from the factory, but I think they are just boxed in to keep them from collapsing...not reinorced in any way in the bolt holes. Is this correct? Anyone see any issues with popping holes in my already boxed arms as described???
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Feb 25th, 03, 9:56 PM
MAX
 
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Huston..... We have ISSUES. Yes, you will have problems if you only drill mounting holes in boxed trailing arms. If you're going to do it, drill the holes in your trailing arms large enough for the outside diameter a piece of pipe/tubing that has the correct inside diameter for the bolt size that originally came with the sway bar you're using. Probably 7/16.Cut pieces of pipe to fit in the holes from one side of the trailing arm to the other, just below flush on both sides. Weld the tudes in place. Now the trailing arm won't crush when you tighten the sway bar bolts. It's real easy but hard to explain with nothing but text. Max
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Feb 25th, 03, 9:59 PM
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I believe the 73 up control arms are also longer than the 68-72 pieces so you may be SOL with even using the arms. Should of asked us first [img]smile.gif[/img]

Dave
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Feb 26th, 03, 10:32 AM
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i am pretty sure the lca are the same. just hold them up to the chevelle arms, if the holes are the same distance apart, they should work. i believe i have a set of those and did that. they were the same between the holes. unless you see a difference dont rule them out yet. you have to mount the control arms in the car before you install the sway bar. it has slots in it to adjust for variations in arm seperations.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Feb 27th, 03, 12:30 AM Thread Starter
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FO_FDYFO

Yes, the rear arms are the same. I checked all of that before I did all the work. Just made the wrong aassumption on the bar location. I'm backed into a corner now since I welded them up already and can't move the u-channel. Well, I do have a grinder, so I guess I can go that route (carefully!) if I have to.

So I'm just trying to figure out how to get myself out of the mess inexpensively and without too much pain.

MAX, I thought that it might be wise to weld some tubing in the bolt holes if I use the standard bar...you confirmed it.

I know better than doing what I did. Stupid, stupid, stupid. Could've been worse I suppose!
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Mar 3rd, 03, 12:28 PM
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ssbums, you can call me if you like 703-549-2412.
i measured my arms. amagine the arms in the car, drill a 1/2 hole 1.5 inches forward of the center of the rear bushing. the next hole is 5 more inches forward of that. accuracy is not that critical.
pete
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Mar 12th, 03, 8:49 AM
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this is how my arms are welded. i drilled a drain hole in the bottom, and you can see the 2 holes for the swaybar.

btw FO_FDYFO is ebonics for four fifty four.

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