cutting a front coil spring, 64-67 - Chevelle Tech
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Jan 10th, 01, 9:03 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 1998
Posts: 162
Recently fished a front end rebuild of my 65, including new springs. Springs are Moog, with one coil cut to get the ride height I wanted. My question is, WOULD YOU PUT THE CUT END UP OR DOWN? I put the cut ends up, now I'm not so sure that was such a good idea.

Here is the problem. The springs are very very close to the front edge of the opening in the frame, and I think one of them is rubbing. Out of the box, there is no top or bottom, and on both ends the last 1/2 coil is horizontal. After cutting off one full coil, the cut end no longer has the 1/2 horizontal coil (obviously). What I think is happening in my case is that when the spring is installed it is bowing out forwards a little because of the cut coil.

Before I go through the trouble of switching them around I'd like to hear what others have to say. I should also add that I'm pretty sure the springs are seated properly at the top and bottom. I put the top end 3/8" away from the stop, the bottom comes out around 1" from the stop, but is between the drain holes.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Jan 10th, 01, 1:00 PM
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Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Niles, Michigan, U.S.A
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I cut a coil off of my 65 and didn't have any problems. It gave it a really nice "raked" look. I put the cut end up, but I don't really see a difference either way.

[This message has been edited by BAD415 (edited 01-10-2001).]
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Jan 10th, 01, 8:11 PM
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Location: Canton, Ohio
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My MOOG sprngs had one coil near the top painted grey, the that was the "top". I would think that the cut end would go down, as the lower control arm is notched to accept spring end.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 01, 4:38 AM
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Location: Long Island
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Igotta71 is right. The lower control arm has a little hole/notch to accept the end of the spring. I would put the cut end down, but also, I don't think it would really matter either.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 01, 5:37 AM
Join Date: Oct 1998
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Heres my 2 cents. Im a suspension designer for a company that makes oem coils for virtually every automaker along with millions of torsion bars and stabars. Put the cut end on the lower control arm. The upper seat was probably designed to accept only a flat coil and not a helix end so the coil will probably move around on you(spin). Plus the control arm should have somewhat of a helix seat on it to accept a helix end. If you put the cut end at the top the coil will surely move around on you because its a flat seat with a helixed coil and at one point dont be surprised if the car doesnt sit even because of it. Put the cut end on the lower control arm and turn the coil until the cut end meets the end of the helixed seat so that it wont spin around on you.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 01, 11:57 AM
Join Date: Nov 1998
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'64-67 Chevelle front springs have an open coil at both ends. Cut coil can go either up or down but you must cut one full coil, no partial coils allowed.

'68-72 Chevelle front springs have a closed coil on the upper end. Cut coil must go on the bottom but you may cut partial coils.

Fred Aldrich
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 01, 9:22 PM Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 1998
Posts: 162
Well I think I'm going to leave it as is for the moment. Not totally happy about it. The clearance on right side is most questionable. The spring comes very close to the "striker" for the lower control arm bumper. The striker overlaps the hole in the frame by about 3/8". The other side doesn't do this; maybe sloppy work by the factory. If it really turns out to be a problem I'll do some grinding.
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