Body bushings and fitment - Chevelle Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions & more.

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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 24th, 20, 6:49 PM Thread Starter
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Big D
 
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Wasnt sure if this should go here or under bodyshop. The recommendation wasngiven that before i go cutting the quarter off the car ther are some prerequisites recommended obe of which is body mount bushings. Clearly from 2 of the pictures they need it. So i had a three questions. The second picture that bushing doesnt look half bad. It is located midway under the door. It doesnt appear to have a bolt through it or even a hole to do so. It appears it just rested in there. Is that normal? The second and more importantly with how flat the radiator core support bushing is and such, how off will the geometry of the door, fender, and quarter be once they are changed? Should i go ahead and remove the fenders to be safe?

Thanks, Big D
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 24th, 20, 7:42 PM
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jeff
 
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Re: Body bushings and fitment

What year? I changed my body bushings a few years ago, the bushings by the driver and front passenger seat don’t have bolts. Also the bushings at the rear of the car, above the axles don’t have mounting bolts. Oops, mine is a 68.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 24th, 20, 7:55 PM
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Greg.
 
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Re: Body bushings and fitment

If one looks that bad then it is time to change them ALL IMHO

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 24th, 20, 8:39 PM Thread Starter
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Big D
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffs68 View Post
What year? I changed my body bushings a few years ago, the bushings by the driver and front passenger seat don’️t have bolts. Also the bushings at the rear of the car, above the axles don’️t have mounting bolts. Oops, mine is a 68.
1969

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Originally Posted by Kirk's67SS View Post
If one looks that bad then it is time to change them ALL IMHO
Yes i am changing them, was curious about removing fenders or anything prior because i am concerned if others are flat that some things may bind.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 24th, 20, 9:17 PM
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Jeff
 
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Re: Body bushings and fitment

I replaced all of mine this past winter since they were 50 yrs old. I did have to re adjust my fenders and doors since everything on the car was sagging.

I ended up having to add 3 thick washers each to the core supports bushings.

Inner fenders had to come out to replace the bushings under the fire wall.
outer fenders you can leave on but I would put some cardboard in between the door and fender just in case the get close to rubbing. I learned that the hard way.

good luck.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 25th, 20, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
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Big D
 
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Re: Body bushings and fitment

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Originally Posted by 1775SS View Post
I replaced all of mine this past winter since they were 50 yrs old. I did have to re adjust my fenders and doors since everything on the car was sagging.

I ended up having to add 3 thick washers each to the core supports bushings.

Inner fenders had to come out to replace the bushings under the fire wall.
outer fenders you can leave on but I would put some cardboard in between the door and fender just in case the get close to rubbing. I learned that the hard way.

good luck.
Thanks everyone one for the replies. FYI, here is the car coming home from storage. Its dirty for sure, but overall I don't think it is in the worse shape. Needs a lot of work. The 396 in it has over 300K miles on it.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 25th, 20, 12:40 PM
blm
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Re: Body bushings and fitment

My suggestion would be to soak all the caged nuts down every day for a week or two before you attempt to remove the bolts. That would require you drill a couple holes (4) in the trunk and two under the rear seat. Then when you go to remove them just break them loose and then retighten, then break loose a little farther and then retighten. Keep going till the bolt tip clears the caged nut. Object is to knock corrosion off the bolt instead of trying to pass it through the caged nut.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 25th, 20, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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Big D
 
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Re: Body bushings and fitment

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Originally Posted by blm View Post
My suggestion would be to soak all the caged nuts down every day for a week or two before you attempt to remove the bolts. That would require you drill a couple holes (4) in the trunk and two under the rear seat. Then when you go to remove them just break them loose and then retighten, then break loose a little farther and then retighten. Keep going till the bolt tip clears the caged nut. Object is to knock corrosion off the bolt instead of trying to pass it through the caged nut.
Thanks, I did read that. I have read a ton on the process. I found a link to a pretty good write up with pictures, and another on how to locate the drill location using geometry. The front seats and carpet are still in and have to come out. Some 30 years ago my father replaced the carpet,which surprisingly looks good, but there is no padding, and he attached it with a metric ton of what he called Monkey Snot. Is going to take a heat gun and some brute force to bust it all loose. Good times.

I was more concerned with how flat a couple of those bushing look as too how far off the panels would be after replacement and if they could potential bind. I know the fenders will be coming off the car sooner or later, so if now is the time to make things easier then so be it.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Jun 25th, 20, 1:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaosEnvy View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1775SS View Post
I replaced all of mine this past winter since they were 50 yrs old. I did have to re adjust my fenders and doors since everything on the car was sagging.

I ended up having to add 3 thick washers each to the core supports bushings.

Inner fenders had to come out to replace the bushings under the fire wall.
outer fenders you can leave on but I would put some cardboard in between the door and fender just in case the get close to rubbing. I learned that the hard way.

good luck.
Thanks everyone one for the replies. FYI, here is the car coming home from storage. Its dirty for sure, but overall I don't think it is in the worse shape. Needs a lot of work. The 396 in it has over 300K miles on it.
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