Sway Bar Bolts - Chevelle Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions & more.

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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 5th, 19, 2:42 AM Thread Starter
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Sway Bar Bolts

To fix the stripped sway bar mount in the frame I drilled out the holes with a cobalt step drill bit and plan to weld a 3/8” hi nut (half inch of thread) to a 1/4” steel plate. The space between the two mounting holes is 3 inches to fit the larger mount for my 1-1/8” front sway bar. The 1/4” plate will also add the needed space between the gear box and sway bar.

Should I be worried about any issues with this?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 5th, 19, 8:47 AM
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Re: Sway Bar Bolts

Should be good to go, just clean the frame well, bevel the plate edges, and weld away. I fished a plate through the frame, don't recommend it.

*Jeff*

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 8th, 19, 11:39 PM
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Re: Sway Bar Bolts

By lowering the front attachment points, the sway bar will be closer to the steering tie-rods. Be sure the sway bar does not contact the inner or outer steering tie-rods, or broken steering components might result.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 9th, 19, 7:56 AM
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Re: Sway Bar Bolts

Quote:
Originally Posted by Malibu70 View Post
By lowering the front attachment points, the sway bar will be closer to the steering tie-rods. Be sure the sway bar does not contact the inner or outer steering tie-rods, or broken steering components might result.
I'm with Frank. My bar is in stock location / slightly forward, BUT is a LOT bigger than the stock bar. Didn't check after the alignment, bolts weren't clocked correctly and made contact. I'm leaving it as now it's clearanced and there's plenty of thread in the nut, but be aware.


*Jeff*

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 9th, 19, 10:12 AM
 
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Re: Sway Bar Bolts

As long as there's no physical interference, looks like a great solution to me.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 9th, 19, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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I tried to square up the bolt holes with the frame and measured the distance of the front bolt hole to the frame on each side before I welded it. Seems like it lines up ok. The curvature of the sway makes it a tight install but I think I’ll be ok. The distance on each side is about 12” from the frame (near the front upper control arm mount location).
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 9th, 19, 6:10 PM
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Re: Sway Bar Bolts

I recently did this to my 71 frame.

I first traced a circle the size of the nut which matched a 3/4" hole saw. I then centerpunched the circle centers and used a 1/2" wide strip of steel to use a holder for the hole saw, as the threaded holes were too big for the drill bit. I used the same strip to hold the nuts in place while they were tacked.

Other than making sure of the locations, I focused on ensuring there was full weld penetration. I had to use a small light and an inspection mirror to confirm the penetration.

I did finish the welds flush, just didn't take any pictures.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 9th, 19, 7:58 PM
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Re: Sway Bar Bolts

Sorry, my previous reply wasn't really clear; I couldn't edit it. I meant to say that I welded on a 1/2" strip after scribing the circles and then center punched/drilled that to accept the hole saw drill bit.

I then used a second strip with holes drilled out to the proper spacing (as seen in the other photo) to hold the nuts while they were tacked in place.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 10th, 19, 1:41 AM Thread Starter
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That seems like a decent way to do it. 1/2” wide 1/8” steel plate to hold the nuts in as you welded them into the 3/4” holes? The spacing of the bolts has to be about 3” apart for bigger after market sway bars. I kept the location of the first bolt holes (furthest from the radiator) then had to create the other bolts 3” from them, at the spot where the frame starts to curve upward.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 10th, 19, 1:45 AM Thread Starter
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I didn’t have the luxury of placing the frame upside down. I put my car on a lift and used high position hoists to hold my 1/4” thick steel pieces in the right position for welding.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 10th, 19, 7:36 AM
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Re: Sway Bar Bolts

Quote:
Originally Posted by jelco View Post
That seems like a decent way to do it. 1/2 wide 1/8 steel plate to hold the nuts in as you welded them into the 3/4 holes? The spacing of the bolts has to be about 3 apart for bigger after market sway bars. I kept the location of the first bolt holes (furthest from the radiator) then had to create the other bolts 3 from them, at the spot where the frame starts to curve upward.
I did the same thing, kept the backside of the sway bar in the "stock" location hoping to clear steering gear / idler arm, etc. Let the bar grow forward as there was nothing to impeded it towards the nose of the car.

*Jeff*

Project Salty - 1964 4 door Malibu, beaten, neglected, red headed foster child
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 10th, 19, 12:14 PM
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Re: Sway Bar Bolts

Quote:
Originally Posted by jelco View Post
To fix the stripped sway bar mount in the frame I drilled out the holes with a cobalt step drill bit and plan to weld a 3/8 hi nut (half inch of thread) to a 1/4 steel plate. The space between the two mounting holes is 3 inches to fit the larger mount for my 1-1/8 front sway bar. The 1/4 plate will also add the needed space between the gear box and sway bar.

Should I be worried about any issues with this?
Looks like a good way to create stress cracks in the frame, especially right below the steering box. Terry
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 12th, 19, 2:24 AM Thread Starter
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Already did it. How would you have done it?
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old Dec 12th, 19, 8:55 AM
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Re: Sway Bar Bolts

I've done this also. I welded a 3/16" plate to the bottom of the frame with nuts welded to it poking up into the frame. It shifts the sway bar forward 1/4" to let a 1-3/8" sway bar clear the idler arm top.

If your bar hits the bolts on the tie rod links, replace them with the threaded hex sleeves with lock nuts on each end.

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